Re: Trying to work with a CM11A under Linux

The Ocelot can send the Leviton 64 level commands but cannot receive them.

That's all done with the standard command set that X-10 has used from their beginning.

That has been my experience with _every_ *Linc product - they go deaf to the powerline. Since others have reported exactly the same symptoms, I think they continue to have design flaws.

signals.

That's hardly a limitation. To me it's a plus, because you can plug the reciever wherever you want, and you don't have to worry about "Signals from this outlet don't make it to that outlet because they're on different legs", or going through power strips, etc.

Remarkably, the Firecracker's signal runs all throughout my house. from the second floor to the basement.

'normal'

I use a Firecracker on my laptop through a Sewell serial to USB converter. Works very reliably.

Here's a list of controllers that currently support UPB:

Supposedly there will be more soon, for some definition of soon.

Thanks for the responses.

I did know about a number of them but one point that tends to be overlooked is that I am trying to do this on the cheap.

Has ANYONE tried using a diskless terminal as a cheap rugged PC?

They are CHEAP, well integrated and relatively low power.

TMT

ADI has a support forum where you can ask:

Lots of good information posted. Thanks. Now I wonder - wouldn't UPB solve

Not familiar with David Huras and his software, but I've been running versions of XtenWin since the Windows 3.1 days of the early to mid 90's.

I have mine set up to update the events every 4 days when I start up my computer (XP Pro), since several are based on sun-set times. It's been stable and reliable; the only thing I do is manually update the clock in my CP290 from time to time. I don't think it's being developed anymore, but you could check with the author if you need some help. A small contribution to the Cystic Fibrosis foundation would turn off the nag screen.

Bob.

I think they were part of the comp.home.automation UK splinter group that set up their own usenet forum but sadly hahaha do not now get much activity. I was always against the splinter group as I thought all posts should be here.

Are you talking about accessing an integrated (Nortel) voicemail system or an external analog answering machine? If the latter, you could put the machine on an incoming line at a point prior to the Nortel.

BruceR wrote: You'll need a little more than a ring generator otherwise it'll keep ringing even after it's answered. A line simulator might do the trick but can't you get an analog station port for the Venture? That would solve your problem without having to kludge something/

"TOM BLACKWELL" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@ntpcug.org...Is a telephone ring generator available, that would let me plug in an answering machine and ring it to make it answer? I would also need to connect an ordinary telephone to send touch tones to control the features of the answering machine, to record messages remotely, etc. Nortel Venture phones are nice, but won't let us check messages left on an integrated answering machine from an extension phone. I want to send a ring signal on an unused phone line connection to hear messages left on the answering machine.

-- Regards, TOM BLACKWELL, PO Box 25403, Dallas, Texas 75225

Why not just DIY and save a few thousand dollars? This stuff is not rocket science. You and a helper (perhaps your SO) could probably prewire the whole job in one weekend. Cable is relatively inexpensive and readily available. Hardware, including speakers and controls can usually be purchased online for a small fraction of the price an integrator may need to charge.

Sure thing. Call me any time after this Thursday (March 10, 2005) and I'll help you plan the layout. It's really quite simple -- not rocket science. I don't charge for tech support. Although I'm handling usenet and a little e-mail I won't actually be in my office before then.

He is looking at 90 drops. More than a weekend project for DIY.

Two people could still do it in a weekend. The trick is to plan everything out before starting. Pull multiple runs together wherever possible. Mark both ends of every cable as you go. I like to bring a checklist showing every drop for each room and mark them off as I go.

I think this will only happen if the sub does not have a 3 pin grounded power connection. With a 2 pin ac power connection, there is only one ground, the shield, and it must be connected, as you describe. With 3 pins there is the potential for ground loops and the sheild need only be connected on one end.

Its also possible even with a grounded power connection that the shield isn't connected to it inside the sub, in which case it would behave as you describe.

My sub is ungrounded ac power and howls without a shield connection :-)

Even with planning it would be a killer weekend. Without planning it would be a disaster.

90 drops X 20 minutes per drop = 30 hours

20 minutes per drop is quite fast (even for pros) since for each drop you need to:

1. Locate and mount a box or mud ring (for speakers 3 wire end points).

1. Drill holes. At this speed spade bits and consumer drills won't cut it. You need auger or self-feed bits, a stout drill and heavy duty extension cord.

2. Pull and label cables.

1. Fasten cable bundles so the won't be damaged by other trades.

Not included in the above 30 hours is time to set up and get out twice since you can't do all the work in one day. Getting all the cable and tools in and out will eat up at least 1 hour per day. So you are looking at two 16 hour days. My guess is that few DIYs are able to pull off such a feat. I cannot think of any I have met that could do it in two 16 hour days.

I just reviewed a actual time spreadsheet from a job where everything went well. There were 55 drops which took 18 hours - 19.6 minutes per drop. This was with a crew of three. For the actual pull one man was on the spools, one man on the end of the wire and one man in the middle to make corners. This was as fast as I have ever wired a traditional solid beam two story house with basement. We were rolling.

In construction with open wood trusses the only drilling is to penetrate floors. In one of these I used three cable joes (but no helper) and I ran 21 drops in 10 hours which is 28.6 minutes per drop. Not bad...

You really don't need to mark BOTH ends if you have as list or drawing identifying the non wiring closet endpoints. If you mark the wiring closet ends that is sufficient to maintain order.

Subject: Re: Structured (low voltage) wiring installation estimates Newsgroup: comp.home.automation => Lewis Gardner Even with planning it would be a killer weekend. Without planning it

You forgot that Robert is just trying to sell him the material. He knows damn well a DIY'er could not accomplish this project in a weekend.

During the many years I installed this stuff for a living I always connected the drain at both ends of line level cables. With RF signals the procedure is different.

In other words you did 35 drops in a weekend with a crew of four people. It makes no time difference if one cable or ten cables go to a drop. That is why I consider a "box location" a "drop". The OP's list looked to me like he thought the same way. But even if he didn't with 29 speaker and 23 cat5 or cat6 drops he is over 50 drops. Still a full weekend at 20+ hours.

30 to 40 drops is about what I would expect from an motivated DIY crew in a weekend.