Are you doing it yourself, or are you going to contract it out? Also, if you are going with anything but a small custom builder, you may not have a choice. Come to think of it, I'm building a house with a smallish custom builder, and I _still_ don't have a choice. :)
If you have a EE PHD from MIT, go for it. Do you realize that the high fequency transmission characteristics of most peoples "powerline" changes constantly and essentially randomly? - RM
Couldn't you just but a relay/control board, have the software fire the relay, and tie the relay to a zone on your panel?
Lots of other experts here (I'm not) but....... trying to interface with your panel at a software level seems overly complicated; and for most panels, probably unlikely.
I know the "little choice" syndrome, having weathered the construction of a new home with a large builder. However the "tricks" available are worth looking into.
First, run as many chases or conduits as possible, and more than you think you will ever need. Make sure access is available to just about everywhere from some sort of central wiring location (where all the low voltage stuff ends up).
Second, plan in advance for "stations" in every available and possible location. I define a "station" as a low voltage outlet that provides for video, audio, Cat5 (or better), etc., etc. To plan in this case means to actually fit low voltage open boxes _before_ the drywall. This can usually be done even with the most controlling builders because no actual wires will be run. Each box is just covered with a blank plate until after closing when the owner can run his own stuff.
Needless to say, it helps to have a full basement and attic space to make things simpler.
You might find something here...
Subject: Connecting PC/MAC to Home Security System Newsgroup: comp.home.automation => Greg I need some help/advice on where to get started. I am writing some
Homeseer and Napco p9600
DSC and the PC5401/4401 Data Interface Modules
The two remote electric power measurement schemes I know of:
(1) RF transmitter at your meter, "neighborhood" receiver located on a pole, then connection to phone lines.
(2) Modem connection between your meter and *your* phone line. Power company polls your modem.
I guess I was involved in the earliest of powerline carrier communications. Back in 1961 at Femco.
It did not work then and it will not work now.
Ferinstance, an ancient Diablo 630 printer has such a good noise filter that it takes out any X-10 device within 200 feet.
There is work that has used cell phone methods to dynamically adapt the power frequency to fit the power line characteristics. Remember, anytime an expert says something can be done, he/she is probably right; and anytime an expert says something can not be done, he/she is probably wrong. - Rm
Some alarm panels have an RS232 serial interface, which allows monitoring and in some cases control of the alarm. You should probably look for one of these panels, or are you trying to work with an existing panel? I've never seen USB or firewire directly into a panel, although a USB to serial adaptor could be used in the case of a serial interface alarm.
Aren't they hard to swallow? ;-)
As for the hardware, I really like the Channel Vision stuff, I have a50" panel, and tons of modules for it. Pretty cheap too! I got mine structured wiring stuff from Automated Outlet , I am not aware of any other dealer which sells this stuff, so I can't make any other suggestions.
For power metering it seems that the OP only needs a very narrow channel bandwidth. The challenge will be mostly in the analog and filter design arena but it can be done. Then, of course, there are the transformers that need to be bridged.
You can already do this for free with out having to sign up for anything. I looked at your web page and apparently you have to "signup" prior to finding out anything worth while about your setup. Any demo cams to look at?
Not for broadband. But for low BW communication it can.
Even a brandnew color printer/scanner did that out here. Had to crack out the toroid box and give it an individual choke per wire plus a cap which fixed the problem. Lots of people in our neighborhood keep stashes of Aspirin or Tylenol. I maintain a bucket of $43 toroids.
But remember, X10 is an ancient AM protocol with little noise tolerance. Then I found that almost all modules were off from carrier frequency so after tuning them all up this increased liability greatly. If a suitable multi-frequency narrowband protocol was adopted this kind of appliance control would work like a champ. It's just that nobody seems to do it, they don't see the market potential..
As to power metering I probably would first sit down with the financial people of a cell phone carrier. It doesn't take a lot of their currency (kb/sec) per account to transfer a meter reading.
Leviton 6289 like this:From: email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org
Another option is to not even have one. Most hoobist will soon find any size panel to small after awhile. Some just put up plywood as a backing. No this doesn't look as good but very easy to customize. Especially if this is a room where no one will be in. I went with Leviton just because it's a closet that I want to look nice. But I'm finding out it's easy to fill it out.
Hey X10.... listen up!
I've always wanted to see a palmpad like device.
Take 16 buttons and make the first press designate the housecode, the second press could designate the number, and the third the function.
The buttons would be:************************ A 01 06% B 02 12% C 03 18% D 04 24% E 05 30% F 06 36% G 07 42% H 08 48% I 09 54% J 10 60% K 11 66% L 12 72% M 13 78% N 14 84% O 15 90% P 16 96%
On Off************************ or some such. Three presses get you practically anywhere you want.
The switch could designate if it worked as a palmpad or the "super" palmpad. (note that the pad would only do codes 1-8 in "normal" mode... unless there was another switch to designate
I imagine I could have a computer emmulate this using some state machines. (listen on a certain otherwise unused housecode for three distinct presses, then act on the press by sending the code)
Cabling-Design.com Forums website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.