Re: Making my own cables?

Not quite :). check out

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Why do the price ranges vary so much? I have

Reply to
Rob
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Hi,

I live in Belgium (Europe) and here 80% of the television broadcasts are in

16:9 Pal-Plus. I have sold my television a bought a DLP projector.(16:9) I am looking for a TV-Tuner for my projector. Do Pal-Plus TV-tuners exist?
Reply to
Jeroen Vandezande

Sure. And a car is a car, a house is a house, and a woman is a woman.

-- Dave Dave's Pit-Smoked Bar-B-Que

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Reply to
Dave Bugg

I am thinking about getting an 80 x 60 in screen. I can adjust the image size of the projector to fit that, am I correct? There doesn't seem to be a "best size" specified for the image on the projectors I looked at.

Thanks.

Reply to
Bradley Burton

I don't know what you consider a reasonable price but I sell Proficient Audio speakers. They sound great IMO (though I'm probably a bit biased:)) and my prices are very competitive.

Reply to
Robert Bass

For the mains use 10 or 12 AWG. For the surrounds 14-gauge will be fine.

Stranded. Solid wire is less flexible and harder to work with.

That is correct. Jacketed in-wall cable will bear the appropriate marking.

Yes, but it will be somewhat bulky and less convenient for connection to the speakers. You could run the NM to the vicinity of the in-walls and connect short, stranded pigtails between the NM and the speakers.

Reply to
Robert Bass

CRT Projectors seem to be designed with specific screen sizes in mind - e.g., my (admittedly older) Sony VPH-1030 was designed for either a 72" or

100" (diagonal) screen, other sizes require complex internal adjustment. LCD Projectors are more flexible, minimum size depends on how closely you can focus, maximum size depends on how many lumens you have.

On a more practical note, ideal screen size really depends on viewing distance. While it's initially tempting to build a screen as large as possible, you CAN get too large, so that you eyes and neck get tired just following the motion across the screen (been there, done that). I don't know if there's been any serious scientific study of the subject, but my own informal experimentation indicates the maximum comfortable screen size - measured diagonally and based on a 4:3 aspect ratio - is about 0.625x the viewing distance.

- FM -

Reply to
Fred Mau

80x60 is what I am using and I love it. I like watching a lot of old movies, especially musicals, from the 40's and 50's which is well suited to the 4:3 aspect ratio or the 80x60 screen. I also hook my computer to it to browse the Internet or play games, like Flight Simulator. The only disconcerting thing is when watching Hi-Def signals and DVD's which are usually the 16:9 aspect ratio. There are black bars on top and bottom of the image which you will see from time to time on regular TV where the program is letter boxed.

As far as fitting the image to the screen, that would matter what projector you purchased. Each projector has a throw distance which tells you for a given image size, say 80x60, the distance the projector is mounted from the screen. You will have a little latitude with the zoom control.

This is a good source for that info. You can select a model projector and use the projector calculator to determine mount location.

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Here is an article on the 4:3 or 15:9 debate:

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Make sure to read this before buying any one particular format.

Rich M.

Reply to
Rich M.

Make that 16:9.

Rich M.

Reply to
Rich M.

It pays to shop around. And I've also noticed that for screens in particular, it pays to avoid "Home Theater" dealers and buy from commercial "Audio-Visual" dealers.

For instance, I recently needed a Da-Lite 60" x 80" high-contrast matte white screen. Calling several "Home Theater" dealers in my area, they quoted from $500 to $700. But calling the local Audio-Visual dealer got me a price of $240.

Perhaps there's some sort of trivial difference between the screen cloth used for commercial applications versus Home Theater applications coming from the same manufacturer, but I suspect it's just all in the marketing.

- FM -

Reply to
Fred Mau

A year ago I would recommend always getting a screen. You're investing a few thousand at least on a projector, so what's a few hundred more. But my brother recently tested many options including white paint, special "screen" paint and screen sample fabric. He couldn't tell the difference. Now I think this is because projectors are much brighter than they used to be so that compensates. If a screen is a major hassle, and your not picky, try a white wall. A wall with any other color is just bad.

Reply to
bobmorrell

As far as cabling goes with a projector, consider this: if possible have all of your equipment near your projector, perhaps on a rack. That will reduce your cable run distances. Use an IR repeater for controlling everything.

As far as video switching, component is what is going to be offered. Anything else, even if you find it, will be very expensive. I recommend trying component. I compared it to DVI and normally, use just can't tell a difference.

For your DVD player it is important that you get one that uses deinterlacing or progressive scan (480p.) There are some new DVD players out that will convert to DVI if you want to go digital crazy on your connections and they do a better job of scaling than any projector will. A fixed pixel display (or basically not CRT) is inherently non-interlaced.

Reply to
bobmorrell

This doesn't exactly address yor question, but if you want the best remote in the world, use a product called NetRemote.

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It works on a PocketPC over your wireless LAN. The control possibilities are unlimited. I have it running on 4 pocket PC's throughout my home to run everything.

Reply to
bobmorrell

This doesn't exactly address yor question, but if you want the best remote in the world, use a product called NetRemote.

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It works on a PocketPC over your wireless LAN. The control possibilities are unlimited. I have it running on 4 pocket PC's throughout my home to run everything.

Reply to
bobmorrell

Anybody out there parting out an Sony VPH-1031 CRT Projector ? I need a set of lenses. Contact me here or offline.

Thanks.

- FM -

Reply to
Fred Mau

Hi, I am considering a 46" Hitachi ( 46F510 ) and would like to know if anyone has had any issues with playing xbox or ps2 and burn in ? I've read that it can happen if you play too long and don't turn the contrast down but how long is that ? If I play for a few hours a night is that too much ?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks Arvin

Reply to
Arvin

Monster discovered how to sell $1 wires for $15. Color them gold. Then others will declare Monster products as brand name. I have never seen a Monster product that was anything less than a scam.

Start with a previous discussi> I'm looking to purchase a new surge protector for my home video/audio

generally

topic, or

Reply to
w_tom

"Richard and Shaw Bullington" wrote in news:b1mmd.35$fJ.14@lakeread06:

Go for the supressor that offers the highest JOULE rating, NOT the one that looks the coolest...all you're paying for is cosmetic appearance and name recognition. I've seen 4700 joule supressors @ CompUSA in the $50 to $75 range. bubbajim

Reply to
BubbaJim

Greetings,

I have a Panasonic plasma disply. How would I hook up the home theater to respond to the volume control on the display? There are no audio out buttons on the monitor, just left and right speaker out hookup connections.

Can I hook up these two connections to the theater unit? It's a Bose Lifestyle 12

I'll have a Digital box and a DVD recorder when all the units arrive. Any experience will be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Geoff

Reply to
Geoff

SNIP

Interesting. So if the buyer chooses to further degrade his H/T experience by purchasing the entire Bose lifestyle system (vice just Bose speakers), he/she can't incrementally upgrade ... first a decent receiver, then better speakers?

John

Reply to
John Carrier

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