Re: Making my own cables?

I could simply do the math, but what would be the fun in that? :)

What are the L and W dimensions of a 16x9 ratio screen with a 10' (120") diagonal measure? I believe this is a fairly standard full-size screen size, correct?

Thanks!

Reply to
MrC1
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I'm building a projector-based theater and think I'm going to try to make the screen be a framed section of the room's back wall. It will be carefully prepped, painted with the special screen paint, framed, etc. but I wonder... how much better would the picture be if I just went with a decent "real" screen?

Opinions? Anyone try this and do a comparison? I'm thinking it may turn out pretty decent as long as the wall is nice and flat and I use a good "screen paint" on it.

Reply to
MrC1

Lazy sod! ; )

It's roughly 104 9/16 inches by 58 13/16 inches. That's an approximation, of course.

Aaahhh . . . felt good to exercise those rusty math skills . . . even if I did need a calculator . . .

cheers, vij

Reply to
vij

"MrC1" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

I have done this and it actually compares favorably to several screens I've tried. Obviously you don't have to worry about whether or not the surface is flat :-).

Even with 1.0 gain screens from Draper and DaLite I had some problems. The Draper had some shine, and I could see reflections of my projector's CRT guns. The DaLite had some shiny unevenness too. I've gone back to using the wall. 2 coats of primer, 3 coats of Sherwin Williams eggshell white.

Reply to
Kubez

I am setting up my home theatre. I have the HDTV already but have yet to buy the DVD and Receiver. I need to have the DVD near the TV and there is a digital set top box there also. The STB has a digital coaxial output and I plan to use quad RG-6 to bring that signal to the receiver which is located on the other wall. I plan to use in-wall wiring to accomplish this with Leviton quick-port connectors. I realize I can use another RG-6 for the coax audio to the Reciever from the DVD, but what if I want to use the optical? The run is probably about 30 ft. Most receivers I can afford only have 2 coax inputs and I am afraid to use both of them up right away. Is there a source for Quickport type jacks and cable that I can use in-wall and is relatively easy to terminate? Is there another name for the Toslink connection? Please let me know if anyone has any knowlege about this. Thanks!

Reply to
Eric

Good day all;

I am putting a small home theatre area in my basement development and have the following questions. A bit of info first:

I have built in to our furnace room and area to house a 53" dlp and all the stereo equipment. This is an interiro wall which will give me access to go behind an make changes in the future. The room would be open concept with two exterior walls around it. There will be a fireplace on the side. The TV will sit flush with the wall.

I want to use all flush mounted speakers, is quality wise as good as a bookshelf speaker?

Any insulation specifics for around the speakers?

Do they make center channel flush mounted spakers?

As this is a small area, am I better off putting the rear speakers in the ceiling or in the wall directly behind my couch area?

What about this middle speakers is it ok to put them in the ceiling?

Should the center channel ideally go above the TV, or below the TV? I have made a spot for both.

I plan on putting sound insulation in the ceiling and interior wall in this area, is this good enough? Any other ideas?

I am going to run a speaker cable to the rear of the room for buttkickers, are there any other cables besided speaker that I should run now before drywall? Remember I have rear access to the TV/Stereo area.

Any input you may have would be greatly appreciated. Want to make sure I don't forget anything.

Reply to
Habsfan

I am in the process of finishing my basement and have run speaker the in-wall Monster CI-Pro for the speakers. I have a couple of questions to make sure that I have things set before I install the insulation and sheetrock.

  1. I have run the mid and rear speaker connections to a central location where the HT equipment will be located. I would like to do the same for the subwoofer line(s) (multiple runs for flexibility) as it is a convenient channel to run the wiring. For a 6' distance, the speaker wires are run next to the power (110v 12-2) wires. Will this cause a problem? I was told that this might cause interference with the speaker or subwoofer operation.

  1. Not seeing any bulk subwoofer in-wall cable, what type and gauge of wire is best for the subwoofer connection. Can I run more of the 14 gauge CI-Pro and solder a RCA connection to meet the wall jacks. Does it need to be heavier gauge than 14? I am installing multiple SW runs to allow for locating the SW in different locations in the room. The longest run will be

25'.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

David

Reply to
DL

Hi,

I also am looking for something is this price range, but am having a hard time understanding why there is so much of a price difference between models. For instance, the Denon AVR-1705 looks like a good basic unit for only $399 list, but the AVR-2805 is about $1,000. The power numbers are not that different, etc., so why so much more, and especially for stuff that is Made in China.

Also, what about the Onkyo line, e.g. TX-Sr502, 602, and 702? These look pretty good, at least on paper.

Thanks.

"www.hometheaterdiscussi> Check out this thread on

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**************************************************** send any email replies to: brewst2 dont_include_this at yahoo ****************************************************
Reply to
AB

Use a RG6 or a digital RG59 for your sub cable. I have a tool that does compression fittings and you can install a RCA type if you want on either of the cables. 14 gauge is more than enough. You could get away with a 16 gauge if you really wanted too.

Reply to
Eric Kinsinger

speaker.

channel is

Reply to
roger.burleigh

Thanks for the fast response.

I have plenty of RG6 Quad and compression fittings. Any thoughts on the speaker and subwoofer wiring next to the regular power 12-2 lines?

David

Reply to
DL

Hi kjb. I just recently puchased the Yamaha RX-V750 receiver

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at $730 Canadian, and the Audition range of Athena speakers F2, B2, C1
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along with the AS-P400 subwoofer ($600, $200, $230, $380 Canadian respectively). I'm absolutely amazed at the quality of sound I'm getting, but I can't really compare it to anything else, since I listened to everything in stereo before this new setup. I've read reviews in which the editor says that for the quality of the Athena speakers, he would have expected a price tag of maybe double what they retail for. And Yamaha is a great brand for receivers, especially if you get an RX-V650 or higher, as it includes the YPAO, which automatically calibrates the speakers to give the best possible sound. My RX-V750 is considered mid-range, I think. Most of the serious audiophiles I've spoken to who have a Yamaha receiver have the RX-V1500 or 2500.

There's so much to choose from, I know. Keep checking the online magazines/websites/archives (audioholics.com is my favourite) for articles and forums to help you figure it out. I also like ecoustics.com, which lists editor reviews and user reviews. Good luck!

vij

"kjb" wrote in message news:iNe4e.4101$7b.793@trndny06...

Reply to
vij

anyone recommend an avr receiver and speakers. mid-range to somewhat high for both. thanks

Reply to
kjb

I'm looking at Klipsch RF-5s and RF-7s, with the 7s being 2x the price, but

2x the power. Anyone ever do a comparo on these two?

The media room is 20x25. Power isn't a problem, especially since these are very efficient speakers.

Reply to
MrC1

See

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Auction ends Apr-17-05 19:44:34 PDT.

Thank you for looking and good luck.

Tony

Reply to
Tony S

Yes...

Check

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for a Keystone compatible Toslink modular insert model 72-320-WH

Check

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for a Keystone decora wall plate model
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Lashen.com has non-decora wall plates for the insert as well.

The connector accepts a terminated toslink connector in the rear and provides a Female receptacle on the front.

If you need long lengths of Toslink, just Google "Toslink XX ft" and you will find what you need up to 100ft lenghts. If you have tranmission issues, you may need a signal amplifier. Just Google "Toslink Amplifier" and lots come up that will boost the signal to 60ft. Lashen.com has some listed.

If you want great cable, check out HOSATECH.com, they appear to specialize in Toslink accessories and carry several grades including cable made from real fiber, not the typical plastic Toslink fiber. They also have a special Toslink distribution system

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that will send the signal up to 300 ft.

------------------------------------- Eric wrote:

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Article posted with Cabling-Design.com Newsgroup Archive

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no-spam read and post WWW interface to your favorite newsgroup -

alt.home-theater - 378 messages and counting!

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Reply to
brunob00

Have an Epson S1 used for presentations at work. It has good brightness and picture options, has a great and easy-to-use menu, and certainly keystone adjustment and image inversion (for hanging upside down from the ceiling for home theater.)

We decided on the Epson because of its good rep for projectors and also the replacement bulb cost is only $188 at Sam's Club online (as compared to the $350-$375 for the comparable Sony we were looking at.)

Reply to
abam

hi, I'm a newbie with low budget.. what do you think about this configuration ampli: Denon 1905 or Yamaha 550 front: wharfedale DIAMOND 9.5 central: wharfedale DIAMOND 9 CM

SUB and rear speaker is the second step

Reply to
vic

Can anyone chime in on this? Looking to get my first HDTV and would like to hear from people more knowledgable about this than I am.

Also, if there are other 62" models that I am overlooking please let me know.

Reply to
Roy N.

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