I'm routing all RG6 cable (4 lines) in my attic to an Antronix splitter. At least two of the cables are too short to reach the splitter. It seems I have two options:
Obviously the latter would be easier, but I want the job done right and will pull new cable it that's the "preferred" method. Any input would be appreciated.
New cable is always preferred, but extending your existing cables is also acceptable.
Usually it's just a question of budget and time (and conveniance).
If done correctly with high quality parts it will have minimum impact on the signal.
Since it is for yourself and you want it done right, new cabling is the way to go. :)
Sounds like what you need, is a cable stretcher. ;-)
Tape the existing coax and the new coax to a few feet of pull tape such that the two coax segments don't overlap.
Thanks Crackhead! (oh, and you too James ;)
Now assuming i can't stretch the cable far enough... Can anyone tell me the best method when using an existing cable to pull new cable? One cable is in an exterior wall and the roof is so low it will be difficult to even get close. Overapping the two cables and taping them together should work as long as the existing hole(s) are big enough. But what it they are not? Tape them end-to-end??
To use the old cable, to pull a new cable. Best to go with a two step process. Tape some pulling twine to the old cable, and us the old cable to pull in the pulling twine. Now you can attach the twine to the new cable and pull that in. It is usually wise to pull in a second piece of twine when you pull in the first one, that way if you break it pulling in the second cable, you are not completely screwed.
--Dale
No doubt it will break if you use cheap twine. Use some decent rope to pull the cables with.
I use cheap electricians pulling twine. I buy it by the 5000 foot bucket at the electrical supply house. It's cheap stuff, but it has more strength than my arms do. For pulling in heavy cable, ( which this coax sure isn't ) I have some braided nylon tape, which has a breaking strength of somewhere around a thousand pounds. The second strand is in case you abrade it on a sharp edge inside the wall you can't see, which will severely weaken any sort of pulling twine or rope.
--Dale
"Newsgroups \\(std news via SBC\\)" wrote in news:prB5e.953 $ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com:
Of course option #1 is preferred, but if that is not possible, try #2. If #
2 fails, try boosting the signal with a zero loss booster. It's basically an amp which maintains a 0db signal throughout the run. Electroline has one such model - you can find them on eBay.Also you should consider using an amplifer anyways - since a splitter often degrades the signal considerably.
Do you mean an Active (zero loss) Splitter, which has an amplifier with gain equal to the insertion loss of the splitter. The only way for an amplifier to compensate solely for the loss of passives (splitters, directional couplers) is to attenuate the output of the amp equal to the loss through the devices. (You could pad the input instead, depending on the input levels to the amp.) Manufacturers have no idea what any given distribution system is like.
CIAO!
Ed N.
Ed Nielsen wrote in news:qL2dncGVibv snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:
Yup, that's what I'm talking about.
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