I made my own Ethernet cable to extend our DSL connections to
25 feet. I used a cat5 male connector on each end. I use two ordinary phone line cords. After I lined them up identically like what cat5 cables are supposed to I then solder and assemble the cords. I then check the resistance on all eight terminals. They all check fine.
The problem is when I plug one end of the cable to DSL modem the other to the PC the cable fails to work. I keep getting "network cable unplug" and "network cable plug" consistently until I unplug the cable. Does this mean that the cat5 won't accept the ordinary phone cables?
This is usually flat silver satin. No-where close to Cat5. Strictly speaking, Cat5 describes an end-to-end link quality that should be certified. When components are marked "Cat5", it means that the mfr believes that they can be used to make a link that will pass Cat5 testing _iff_ you do everything right.
Low resistance straight thru is not enough. Ethernet uses differential signals which must travel on balanced twisted pairs to avoid corruption. Electrons may be color blind, but they know who their dance [twist] partners are.
Your cable is not CAT5 since it doesn't have the right number of twists but then again you don't need CAT5. Your DSL modem probably runs at
10Mbps which calls for CAT3 cable. CAT3 has less twists and most telco cable meets the criteria. The cable you have may be below that but it might not matter for a the short run. YMMV
The link light would come on in any case so you have something else wrong. Your modem may require a cross over cable or you don't have it wired correctly (pin1 to pin1). You actually only needed two pair 1-2 and 3-6.
Correct that problem and then try your cable. If you don't get errors, you are just fine
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Did the equipment run when using an original (shorter) cat5 cable? Did you use the right pairs twisted? The colors of the ordinairy telco cable you used may differ from the cat5 ones, you know. What about your soldering skills? You measured for conductivity, did you also check for short circuit? (BTW, all CAT5 connectors I'm aware of are crimp types, where did you get these solderable things from? How do they look like?) Where did you get the information of the cat5 cable? Be aware that real cat5 cable has a higher quality and price that ordinary telco. The quality of your home industry product may not be good enough.
From what you are describing, it appears you have a simple DSL to computer hookup. Instead of extending the ethernet connection from the modem to the computer, why not simply place the modem next to the computer and extend the silver satin phone line to the modem.
As other guys have said, silver satin line cord won't work. Untwisted cable has no cross-talk immunity.
Typically CAT5 ethernet cable are straight-through, but DSL modem-to-computer cables are usually cross-over.
Those error messages usually indicate intermittent loss of copper continuity, even thought you are showing good continuity when you test the cables, they may not work when plugged in. My line of thinking is that you might be using modular plugs designed for solid conductor and silver satin is stranded wire. Although is more problematic the other way around - using a stranded wire modular connector with solid wire.
The error message "Local Area Connection is now connected. This connection has limited or no connectivity" usually means you have an IP issue, but there can be two reasons for this. You computer's TCP/IP properties are set for dynamic IP, but your network is static IP *OR* you simply can't connect due to a cable problem.
You may even get a message saying "Local Area Connection is now connected. Speed: 100.0 Mbps" when in fact its not working as that message only indicates you have copper continuity. I've seen this after someone stapled 50 feet of CAT5 to the baseboard. No error messages, but it just didn't work..period.
BTW...just for grins, I just made up a 20 foot silver satin cord with
568B modular ends for stranded cable. It said "Local Area Connection is now connected. Speed: 100.0 Mbps", but I couldn't even ping the two computers.
Move the modem next to the computer and redo you ends with RJ-11 plugs.
Flat telephone cable (silver satin) isn't Cat-3 cable. It would be known as voice-grade, rated good for maybe 5kHz. Cat-3 cable is round, looks just like cat-5 normally, just not as many twists per inch.
It also depends alot on speed too. You can get away with alot for 10-Base-T. With todays stuff being all 100-Base-TX or 1000-Base-T, the specs are
The DSL modem-to-computer cables I have don't seem to have the cross-over cable, they are straight-through. I'd took a continuity test on each terminal and don't seem to find any crossover cable. But the link light comes up fine on the DSL modem but the link fails to work. The modular plug I use is made by AT&T model (700A8) part no. LR85625. The plug is normally designed for a cat5 cable with no soldering or crimping tools required but its large delta shape plug makes it possible to solder the telephone wire to the terminals. I'd also check for short circuits and found none. The phone wire isn't twisted, that may be problem. I'll have to run down to the electronics store and get a fresh set of modular plugs and cat5 cables.
The Internet connection works fine once I move the modem closer the PC using the 5-ft cat5 cable that came with the modem. Since we have two PC that don't use the Internet the same time, it makes sense to run a long cable to the other PC and just plug the cable to the modem. This also a good way to yank the cord once your kids stays up too late online.
That's an RJ45 connector (the plastic bit that looks like a big phone plug, which is an RJ11). The connector is about the least important bit. It's the cable that's classified CAT5.
I've never seen solder type RJ45 connectors. You need a crimping tool. For one cable it's not worth it. For many, it is.
DC connectivity is fine to check your work if you used the right materials. If you used ordinary satin (flat) wire then you may find a connection but it would not work.
That supports your claim of proper end-to-end wiring, but shows what happens if you use inferior cable. The link speed negotiation is very slow compared to data speeds, so the NWAY autonegotiation works and then the link fails.
Buy some other cable and try again. Use CAT5, or if you're cheap, use CAT3 as others have suggested. If it's not round, it's not going to work. You don't need all 4 pairs, only 2 (look at a good ethernet connector, you need the green and orange pairs). For a daily use cable, get stranded wire or your cable will be very stiff.
Not quite, the connectors (either plug or 110) should also be certifiable.
I'll agree that _occasionally_ making your own patch cable is a necessary evil (and I have the crimper and a tester). But, punching down a 110 is much more reliable. Buy reputable patch cables, punch down long runs. And a punch down tool is cheaper than a good crimping tool.
Attenuation goes up with stranded cable... It is used for patch cables specifically for the flexibility. Again for long runs use solid cable and punch down at each end. Then plug your patch cables in at each end.
Depending on where you run your cables, it may be necessary to purchase plenum grade cable. Check with your local building inspector.
I don't think the link light is any better than DC continuity test. All it says is that there is a wire plugged in.
For you, the worst outcome is that the power-up handshake determines that the link is capable of 100MB but as soon as the computer tries to send data at that rate it fails in some way that won't be obvious to you.
A possible solution for a margional cable is to "nail" the link speed to 10MB. Your Computer can do this and your DSL gear will probably follow, properly.
Make the setting 10MB/Half Duplex.
If you *do* get this cable in operation, keep an eye on the error rates. Netstat is you friend.