Voip Problems?

I WAS.

At first only had a few problems, missed daily tests...then they got more frequent. Then panels started not testing at all. Had one guy that worked fine for a week, I was even able to remotely program it over voip...then just stopped...went out there and he and I could not get the freeking thing to work at all (he's a computer guru). Switched him to pots line.

I was having people sign waivers and fully explained all the shortcomings that I knew about.

Then I went out to all that I did and put them back on pots lines...not worth the risk. Good thing I only had a handful.

I won't do VoIP anymore.

You wanna know how voip works with alarms, why not ask those bozos over at Next Alarm. They were pushing that stuff all over the place. They had their hacks come and post all about how they use Next Alarm with voip and it works great, No problems. Yeah, use Next Alarm. Go dump your phone service and go voip cause we can monitor you through voip. Well the system FAILED! Yep, it doesn't work. So where is all their trash talk today? Flushed down the sewer. So bad they even had to provide a full explaination that they actually don't use voip cause it's won't work. Too bad they were let off the hook by replacing one technology with another and didn't have to tell people they screwed up. Wonder if they had to replace at their cost all their private voip hookup adapters with their new adapters? No joke, go to their website and read all about it. You want your alarm to work? Stick with regular POTS service from your local phone company. Jenn

I think I'll sign up for a year at $107.40 and then cancel after a month and get a $164.45 refund

You been on vacation or sumpin' ?

| | |

I *hate* design on the fly...makes me anxious and gives me a headache.

Heat? It's 7:30 and its already over 100 and I have to finish a big custom rough-in today...by noon the inside of the house will be over 100 with no air moving because they have the windows closed due to scaffolding on the outside. I hate rough-ins...I can trim-out all day long but roughs kill me.

And to top if off...when I bid the job it had standard aluminum frame windows...only about 11...when we got there last week there where 20 custom wood Pellas...sheet...I spent 3 freekin hours just putting the contacts on yesterday and still have to muck with the magnets...which will have to be those high power flat washer types ($$) because of the way these custom windows were made- WHEN will these custom window manufacturers offer pre-contacted windows!!!???

| | | | | | | | |

Hmmmm.....Guess I was wrong for beating them up? If I only had a nickel for every industry brain fart. Learn TCP/IP, and get out of the 80's.....

I wish....Been bustin' my a** lately. Been camped out in Philly for 8 weeks on a 3 week project. You know how that goes. Gotta love that design on the fly approach. I should be in and out for a while now. Thank God for the heat though, wouldn't want everything to be nice. Keep in touch.

Jack

| | |

which will have to be those high power flat washer types ($$) because of the way these custom windows were made- WHEN will these custom window manufacturers offer pre-contacted windows!!!???

Great idea........but......we will have to live with their choice of contact and you know it is about $$'s....and.....then there is the warranty issue.......and......potential liabily issues......but....if there were set standards they had to comply with and enforced (haha) it would be great.

| | | | | | | | |

Heat? It's 7:30 and its already over 100 and I have to finish a big custom rough-in today...by noon the inside of the house will be over 100 with no air moving because they have the windows closed due to:

the smoke from the wild fires you are having?

OK...then at least PRE-DRILLED ! That wood they use is so fragile its a pain in the buttola to drill and get lined up.

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

Man...I just came from up there...looks like a volcano spewing fire and brimstone. They may close I-17 to do a back burn...it's a pretty big fire.

It'd be great I'd even pay the extra couple of bucks per window just to have pre-drilled holes.

?? What do you use to drill them? I use a brad-point bit on the window wood, and then change to a bellhanger to finish the job up through the header. The hole for the contact is perfect, with no splintering. js

There's a window manufacturer in the Lower Mainland (Vancouver, B. C.) that called us in a few weeks ago to consult on pre-installing contacts. I told them it was a good idea particularly from the standpoint of the home-owner who's concerned with possible warranty issues on some applications. Now that's progress!!! :-))

That's EXACTLY how I do it...and I buy a new brad point and bell hanger for each job. Could be the humidity is non-existant out here so the wood is really dry...even putting masking tape didn't help too much...only slightly splintered one of 20. Time consuming being so nervously careful...if I monge one up I end up losing money.

Ohh ye of such limited knowledge....

Heh which reminds me last year when I was in Phoenix they had a massive fire about 40 miles north east of the city

Dang, must be like drilling through a soda cracker. Maybe higher speed and less pressure? js

It is...and after a couple of hours I'm dry as a soda cracker too. I made it though..no just gotta do the magnets.

| >

| >> ?? | >> What do you use to drill them? I use a brad-point bit on the window | >> wood, and then change to a bellhanger to finish the job up through | >> the header. The hole for the contact is perfect, with no splintering. | >> js | | Dang, must be like drilling through a soda cracker. Maybe higher speed and | less pressure? | js | |

each job. Could be the humidity is non-existant out here so the wood is really dry...even putting masking tape didn't help too much...only slightly splintered one of 20. Time consuming being so nervously careful...if I monge one up I end up losing money.

Crash, I'm going to give you something that I learned, while working on boats.

When drilling into fiberglass, if you start out with *any* kind of drill bit, the gel coat ( the overcoating that goes over the color layer) splinters and takes pieces of fiberglass with it from around the drilled hole. Primarily because it's brittle. This leaves the uncolored fiberglass, showing all around the edges and can sometimes splinter a big chunk of the color coat away, making for a pretty ugly sight. A way to avoid this is to push the point of the drill bit into the fiberglass with some amount of pressue and run the drill backwards. If you make the indentation deeper than the angled tip of the bit ..... then slowly run the drill forward, you'll find that the tearing around the edge of the hole is reduced considerably. This works especially well when drilling into vinyl at all times of the year. Sometimes, here in the cold climate, in new construction, the vinyl on doors and windows can crack from being cold. Running the bit backwards, heats up the vinyl and then it drills a lot better.

Another way of course, is to start with a smaller drill bit and work your way up. But, time consuming. But sometimes, depending upon the material, just a few bit changes will do it. And, of course, once you break through, any sharp bit will do. Masking tape helps .......... only sometimes.

I've never tried this with a brad point bit, because I've gotten used to using standard point. But, just thinking about it, it just might work better than a standard tip bit.

I expect we can all be prepared to see this show up in Bass's FAQ.

By the way, are you really using a "bell hanger" bit or a flex bit? I can see using bell hangers in new construction, where you can see where you're drilling, but I use all flex bits, regardless. No reason to carry two kinds of bits when one will do. The flex bits are so much more maneuverable.