Something went Bad Wrong!

I went to a customer yesterday about 5:00pm. He said the alarm system stopped working. I installed this system about 4 months ago from a takeover. He had a DSC system that was installed by a Larger Company. (With the Blue three letter logo). But since I like to upload and download I replaced the board. Had to run a few new wires because it seemed they had a 6 zone panel, but only 4 zones were used. This company loved to double up zones. I don't like that. Well, after arriving at his house, I checked the voltage on the AC terminals... it was at 0 volts. So I checked the transformer. Transformer was not putting out any voltage at all. So I replaced the unit. Panel still didn't work. I checked the voltage back at the panel and found 16.5 VAC. so it must be the board...I told him I would have to replace this board but thought it was strange that it didn't last very long. Well, I came back with the new board. Wired everything up and was getting ready to wire the AC wires to the terminals... Just as I grabbed one of the wires, I got a shock of my life. It held on to my hand like I have never felt before. It seemed like forever but I finally got away from it... I think I almost pissed my pants. After I came too, I grabbed my volt meter and checked to voltage. The meter read 140. I told the man what I found and he was kind of shocked... I asked him what it could be from and he didn't know. I asked if anything happened the same time that the alarm quit working. He said no.

A long story short, the other alarm company ran the AC line from the garage where it is plugged in an outlet, (using 22/4 wire) all the way to the other side of the house then down to the basement. Well, I found after tracing the wire, it ran next to the 120 volt wire for the sump pump and there was a nail that was used to hold down the 110VAC wire. But the other installer also used that nail to hold the power wire down for the control panel. He must have pulled in through the nail because the insulation was rubbed off showing copper on both wires. When the sump pump kicks on, it sends voltage through the low voltage wire and it blew up the alarm panel. I guess I will not use other company's wires again. When I first arrived to bid the system, the wiring job looked nice... Man.. I was wrong.

M
Reply to
Matthew Stanley
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Hmm. A nail shorted one lead of the transformer secondary to one lead of the sump pump. When the sump kicked in you got 140 VAC? There must have been something else wrong.

Aside from that, I don't see how the sump could send voltage when it kicked in unless there was an open neutral. All the residential sump pumps I've seen have constant hot, neutral and ground connections. When the float rises a switch is thrown, completing the circuit, but even then the voltage on the neutral and ground wires should be ~0.

Reply to
Robert L Bass

High voltage induced to a low voltage wire.... nice, thats why NFPA 70 National Electrical Code says 1 foot separation between Low Voltage and High Voltage Wiring.

Reply to
ssokoly

could of had a floating ground at the pump. ground would have then gone to the panel. resulting in a larger voltage from the supply..

rural america is full of old wiring with a weak or missing device ground. RTS

Reply to
RockyTSquirrel

Think so?

Reply to
Robert L Bass

That's a possibility but if that were the case I'd expect there to be voltage on the shorted low voltage line at all times. Any thoughts?

Reply to
Robert L Bass

not the loop, only in reference to a good earth ground :o)

((check how solid the ground is by inserting a diode in series with the leg being checked and ampmeter it to ground. NOTE start with the hightest range on the meter and work down to the lowest.. Really hi current tells me its a really bad ground at the pump, low current says panel ground slightly better than pump..))

RTS

Happy Holidays

Reply to
RockyTSquirrel

Most alarm guys don't carry a meter that has the range to measure the AMP load of a sump pump. Unless you're a regular electrician you're probably not going to carry one. I have been bitten pretty hard by electrical grounds and neutrals before. Usually it means some Jake leg electrician has been there.

Reply to
Roland Moore
1 foot would be okay, but 1 tongue might not work.
Reply to
Roland Moore

I'm puzzled as to how you got 140VAC in reference to earth ground.

Reply to
Robert L Bass

think thats odd try this one. had a customer with a grounded telephone ckt. L1 to L2 ie.. red to green had 49.5 vdc red to ground had 53.5 vdc green to ground had 35.4 vdc had 60 cycle hum on audio of loop when ringing ckt had 110 vac red to green..

Telephone guy (AT&T / Bellsouth) said there wasn't anything wrong with the ckt.. (to quote him he had over 46 vdc on the pair so nothing could be wrong)

best we could figure the difference of the 53.5 over the 49.5 was a loop back impedence where the impedence voltage added to the primary voltage causing the extra voltage to show up..

the best part was that the distance from the customer to the telephone switchframe was apx. 125 feet. however the line had 3 (get that) three splices in the overhead wire..

to my knowledge to this day the phone company hasn't fixed the grounds. (been 4 years)

We moved the rj-31 over to another l> >

Reply to
RockyTSquirrel

the 140 vac is most likely the results of the transformer adding the primary and secondary windings due to the short in the wires.. ie.. 140 total - 16.5 secondary = 123.5 vac house voltage

I think they call that an autotransformer where the primary coil adds to the secondary to give a higher voltage output..

RTS

Reply to
RockyTSquirrel

And to think I was just about to get my brain around this thing and now.........................

Only one word comes to mind.

Huh WTF. Oh Ok two words or so.

Reply to
ABLE_1

That's about what you'd expect to get. Anywhere from 48 to 51 VDC is normal with no phones off the hook.

I'm not sure what the potential to earth ground is supposed to be.

Probably induction from nearby 110VAC wires.

The last time I checked ring voltage was around 90 VAC. I don't know if that's universal or just what SNET was using in CT.

Telco Idiots are notorious for blindly going by a single reading rather than trying to resolve problems.

Nothing telco surprises me any more. When they were installing the line in our new (to us) home/office in CT many years ago I had ordered a 100-pair drop because, according to the telco rep, that was the next size up from a 12-pair and we already had 12 lines. Engineering came out a month before and surveyed the lines. They assured me all was fine -- there were plenty of available circuits.

On the appointed day I showed up early with a thermos of hot coffee to await the telco installers. They arrived in two separate trucks. One guy asked the other, "Did you bring the spool?" The second said, "I thought you were bringing it." They decided that instead of driving back to their office they could use a spare spool from behind the nearest CO that had "plenty" of cable on it. They spent half the morning pulling the cable from several poles away, over to the house. Sure enough, it was about 20 feet short. They then drove to anouther CO, got another spool and spent the next few hours doing an aerial splice.

Later in the afternoon they told me they would have to come back another day because there wasn't a hole in the wall through which to run the cable. They said they were'nt allowed to make any holes. My trusty Bosch drill took care of that.

Sounds typical... :^)

Reply to
Robert L Bass

I've used autoformers extensively. They make great volume controls. But I've never before heard of one adding the primary and secondary voltages. I guess it's possible though.

Reply to
Robert L Bass

I'd say about as "possible" as "Attention Burglar! Go Ahead Make My Day!"... Wouldn't you??

Reply to
Frank Olson

I feel for you, bro. I recently had to replace a fire alarm panel and communicator that wound up fried because the customer's tenant decided to "hot wire" a 220 volt ironing machine through the building's "common area" breaker box. Strange thing is that we had 60 volts on the neutral side and 240 on the hot. Go figure!

Reply to
Frank Olson

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