Shock Sensor

Is one better recomended that the other? Sentrol 5150 vs Ademco ASC-SS1 Thank you Steven

Reply to
Steven
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Use the Sentrol if you have to. Care to tell us a little more about the installation you're working on??

Reply to
Frank Olson

It's a slider type windows in this home (condo), Each pane is about 35x20. closed loop zone, There are only 9 windows in this unit. Steven "Frank Olson" wrote in message news:xgDaf.395249$oW2.160038@pd7tw1no...

Reply to
Steven

I'd suggest having a custom window security screen fabricated that would span the entire width of the window. Properly installed (on the outside of the window), your customer would enjoy being able to open the window without worrying about knocking off a "bug" or "stretching" the wire. In addtional, he could open it as wide as he wants on a hot day and still enjoy full protection.

There are a number of companies in the US (and Canada) that are involved in fabricating and upgrading window security screens. You can check out one of them here:

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Google "security screens" or "window security screens".

Another option is to go with alarmed window barricades.

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These units remove easily in the event of an emergency, but will also "fault" the zone (if your system's disarmed), or sound the siren if it's armed.

Reply to
Frank Olson

besides shock sensors are not bird friendly

I've used those IEI lithium battery powered ones a few times when situation called for it and the prewire co. only ran 2 conductor. They work well..only problem is when battery goes.

35x20. | > closed loop zone, There are only 9 windows in this unit. Steven | > "Frank Olson" wrote in | > message news:xgDaf.395249$oW2.160038@pd7tw1no... | >>

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| >> Use the Sentrol if you have to. Care to tell us a little more about the | >> installation you're working on?? | >>

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Reply to
Crash Gordon

guys whats the best, lets put it this way, most secure, way to secure a screen, without having the screen remeshed? This is for my own appt, I have new screens but cant have them redone. I was thinking a contact on each side, 4 of them?

Very small windows ...screens are 19x34 and they are over wood, these are from 55 years ago .. they open in, im adding in modern screens, but the landlord already ordered normal screens. The screens go on the wooden frame, not the window itself. The old screens were built into the windows ..

Thanks Rory

Reply to
cctvbahamas

that aint worth it, remember 19x34 .. small small small windows ..i dont invision the crack heads around here cutting the screen .. :-)))

Reply to
cctvbahamas

plus i cant afford to do the screen myself, any tips on oldschool syle like 2 wires or something across the outside of the screen? Like a cross ..?

Reply to
cctvbahamas

i think my only vaiable way is beams :-( anyone wanna sell me some, crash?

I have some now, but they are on the back part, the rear entrance, not near my appt windows.

Reply to
cctvbahamas

oh yeah, email me at . the email provided, or the one you know me from :-)

Reply to
cctvbahamas

putting contacts on four sides isn't gonna help if they cut the screen... why not make a second inner alarm screen if you don't wanna mess with the landlord's

Reply to
Crash Gordon

lacing wire and the pullout connectors? yah i guess you could do that...adi may still sell the connectors.

if it's not in an area that can be seen you may be able to rig up a really thin two conductor...maybe skinny zip...solder mini connector plug to one end..like stereo headphone plug run it across the window(s) at the reciever end put a mini jack and the resistor and plug it in...at the other end connect to your home run securely fasten...if the wire is cut you get alarm if it pulls out of jack you get alarm if armed or trbl if disarmed.

Reply to
Crash Gordon

If the screens are made of wood, you can staple trap wire (which is 24 ga, solid, insulated) on to the inside of the screen. You staple the wire back and forth a few times and up and down a few times. If you're afraid that someone would be smart enough to short out the wire to gain entry, you can decrease the chances of that by stapleing each leg of the protective loop on the screen in odd and even pattern then use an end of line resistor loop to detect a short. You add pull out plugs at both the top and the bottom to act as a trap if someone tries to take out the screen. If the screens are on the outside of the house, you'll have to use some kind of weather proof plugs, otherwise moisture will oxidize the connections. Or, if your not ever going to remove the screens, or very seldom remove them, just run the wires inside the house and add plugs or just splice there. If someone tries to pull out the screen they'll break the 24 ga wire. Now either way, if someone tries to cut through the screen, or remove the screen, they'll have to break the trap wire to get into the house.

Reply to
Jim

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