eol dsc1550

Wow it sounds like you got a great system there!

oh sure you never power pirs with one system and monitor the zones with another? sheesh is it a full moon AND April fools day too?

There are cheaper ways to power PIR's than using a PC-1550. And yes, there are methods available to have the zones monitored in two places and on two independent keypads. You're going to have to provide some additional information regarding the main system. What is it? Where is it located? Are there wires routed to it from each PIR (or are the PIR's reporting on a single zone)?

I got this DSC alarm 1550 cheap enough with a box and a transformer, I put a battery to this. The system I do have is a cellular system and it does have the contacts to monitor 4 positions but it doesn't have the power in the battery to power these, very long if the power is out.

I have the motion detectors set normally closed, just the sensing of these are going to this cellular system. I want to just put the eol resistors to the 1550 board, just for the turning of the lights off on the keypad. I got the error message to go away by programming this 1550 alarm system without a fire zone.

I could just program this via the program 12, option 5. N.C. loops (except fire) I still don't know if it needs the EOL resistors, for them to be all normally closed loop?

The four wires to the motion sensor, 2 normally closed wires are not connected to the DSC 1550 alarm system. The other

I just want to close off all the six zones of the DSC 1550 alarm system with a wire, if this option is safe, or with a wire with the end of line resistor attached. Just to make the DSC 1550 think that all is well. This will turn all the lights off on the keypad.

Thanks, Joe

You have to jumper out the zones on the 1550 if you're not using them. If you turn on light #5 in option 12, you can use regular 22AWG wire between the "zone" and "zone common" terminals otherwise you'll have to use the 1K ohm resistors. Program all the zones as "perimeter" (03). It's been quite a while since I worked with a 1550 panel. Good luck!!

Thanks, I will turn on light 5 in option 12, and I will just put a wire from the common to each of the terminals 1-6. I wasn't sure if I still needed a end of line resistor with this option. I had all ready programed in option 11 (1,3) Thanks Again, Joe

Hmmmm....why bother having a keypad if he's not using any of the zones on the DSC for detection but merely for powering the pirs? What panel in existence doesn't have power to run a few pirs, that he has to use a different panel as a power supplyWhat's powering the cellular?

...whole thing sounds goofy.

I'm surprised at you Crash. I'm pretty sure the OP didn't purchase the equipment from Bass (aka "Goofy"). Although I can almost hear the "bAssification"... "DSC isn't really the best choice for a burglar alarm, but they do make for a good power supply". ;-)

Ya think?

ot: you guys are not up in vegas I guess?

Nah. SOS last year, and Doug's Karaoke voice is a bit strained from yelling at an electrician in National City last month. Maybe next year. You?

I'm not up in Vegas but who is?

I made all zones, 1, 3 which is slow & silent and Interior Home-Away Loop. With no fire zone. Then I made all zones normally closed without a end of line resistor. This works fine, all zones are off, and the ready light is on the keypad.

The trouble light is coming on now after a few minutes, which points to the battery.

I am going to give it a few hours then go back and check to see if the battery trouble light remains on.

I had to come back to this newsgroup and read about what the board should be putting out for the battery. The Battery is new. If when I go back and the trouble light is still on. The float charges is around what 13.4 to 13.8. I will just put a meter to the plus and minus sides of the battery wires, to check this. Would this be correct? I want to see if the board is charging the battery.

Thanks, Joe

PS I've only been to Vegas once, that was when I was younger, and now I have more bills to pay.

I put a meter just to the battery wires, and they checked correctly 13.7. Then I connected them to the battery, this would always bring a little arc. The meter would read only what the battery was putting out, and this reading was dropping. This was a new battery, I went and got another battery. I put the wires on the battery then check the voltage to the wires. Now it was checking 13.6 and it was going up.

The previous battery was brand-new, and it was a bad battery.

nah, not this year. I was invited to the Microsoft Summit up in Seattle on the 14-18 so I'm going there instead, ISC will have to wait till next year for me....besides not much happens there.

you should read the output of the charging circuit without the battery, not sure what it should be on a DSC you'd have to call tech support if they still have tech support any more.

I did put the meter to the wires, with the battery unplugged. I read in this newsgroup earlier that these readings should be around 13.7, they were that.

Then I was able to check these wires also with a battery plug in. The reading fell on the wires, with the bad battery to the reading of the battery, which was 11.9, and the reading would continue to drop.

I did the same procedure with a new battery, the reading was 13.6 and rising. then when it got to 13.7 the trouble light went out on the keypad.

Thanks for all the help. I believe all the problems are fixed. Thanks, Joe

Glad we could help, Joe.