Flourescent kills X10

These flourescent lights are high-end, 13 watt, quick start lights for under counter use. I'm not sure that replacing the bulbs would make much difference, but I may try as a last resort.

I guess I was looking for something like some sort a band-pass filter or something that I can put in the up-stream outlet that will bypass the flourescent light when on and pass the X10 signal down-stream to the next outlet.

Any other ideas? Maybe my macro idea is the only practical solution.

Thanks, Keith

BruceR wrote:

Certain loads create line noise that interfere with X10 signals. You might try a different brand bulb as that can make a significant difference. X10 is a 30+ year old technology that has always been a bit buggy. Newer technologies like Insteon, Zigbee, and UPB advertise that they don't suffer the same problems.

From:kviator snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com

Yes, there are filters to solve the problem. Have a look at

or to see them. They have both plug in and hardwired versions. For the undercounter lights you could probably use the hardwired one at the j box. The fixtures you have contain circuitry that attenuates X10 signals. My reference to bulbs was based on the incorrect assumption that you were talking about the screw in compact flourescent bulbs. I too have the undercounter lights but was lucky enough to pick ones (purely by chance) that caused no problems.

From:kviator snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com

I'm not sure I understand what you are describing.

Light #1 works OK under control of an appliance module, turning on and off.

Light #2 works OK under control of an appliance module but only if light #1 is off.

Is this the situati>Arrrrgh. I finally got one flourescent light to work on an appliance

Keith,

Sorry you are frustrated with X10, but it CAN be a reliable system. It does take some planning and management to keep it reliable.

We use a bunch of compact fluorescents in ceiling cans to save energy. Most are controlled with Leviton 16293 relay X10 switches. To prevent potential problems, I included Leviton 6287 noise blocks in line between the switches and the ceiling cans. These filters are small enough to fit in the back of the switch boxes.

Unfortunately, the solution is not quite as easy with an appliance module. Years ago I ran into your problem when compact fluorescents first came out. The Lights of America CF bulbs had a filter capacitor directly across the power input. That killed any X10 signal on that circuit. I you are running into a similar problem.

The solution was fairly easy. I ordered some Miller 1000 uH Hash Chokes from Digikey and wired them in series with the bulb center contact. You can probably do the same with your under cabinet light. Just wire the choke in line between the "hot" input line and the circuitry. Be sure to well insulate the choke with shrink tubing to prevent any possible contact to the case.

We use X10 here for all lighting, sprinkler control, hot water recirculation, and exhaust fans. With hundreds of X10 commands sent daily, we see a missed command perhaps once a month. Not 100% reliable, but certainly better than 99%.

With some care, it should work fine for you too.

Jeff

Interesting idea Dave, but I don't think there is room. The Miller choke is about 1/2 inch diameter by 1 1/2 inches long. There may be smaller torrid chokes available. Something to consider is that the 1000 uH choke is only rated for 1A. That's ample for a CF bulb. But any modified appliance module would have to be identified so it isn't used for another purpose.

Along a similar line, I have modified floor and table lamps for screw-in compact fluorescents driven by an appliance module. I just snipped the hot lead inside the base of the lamp, wired a choke in series, and encased everything in shrink sleeving. But I used the 125 uH choke (3.5A) for these applications in case someone put in normal high wattage bulbs in the future.

Jeff