Wired/Wireless Network/Internet

"JFN" hath wroth:

You have a problem (unless you have your terms mixed up). You state that you have an ADSL modem and a "Network Hub". I'll assume that your DSL ISP provides you with 2 IP addresses, one for each computer. However, I'll also guess(tm) that your don't really have a "network hub" and that it's really an ethernet router. That could easily be confirmed by looking at the bottom of the unit. You'll probably find a label with a manufacturers name and model number. Kindly disclose this information along with the maker and model number of your ADSL modem, so that your question can be answered with a minimum of guesswork.

If, by chance, it really is an ethernet router and not a "network hub", then all you need to do is setup your access point according to the supplied instruction, being very careful not to duplicate the IP address of any of the existing devices, configure the wireless, connect a CAT5 cable between the DWL-G700AP and your ethernet router, and it's ready to go. However, before attacking the wireless, I suggest you test and setup your new laptop with a CAT5 ethernet cable, and leave the wireless setup until it's working and updated.

He might have a telco provided DSL modem that has an embedded DHCP server for routing.

decaturtxcowboy hath wroth:

Yep. Y'er probably right. An Efficient/Siemens 4100 would do that. If that's the case, then the access point could just plug into the "network hub" with a CAT5 cable as previously described.

Checking the IP address of 82.153.98.68 shows London, England. I have no clue how they do things over there.

My setup is as follows:

DSL ISP connection >to Bt Socket >to ZOOM Model 5560 ADSL Modem/Gateway/Router >to NETGEAR EN 2005 5Port Hub (Uplinkport) >Port1 to Computer 1 Ethernet port, Port2 to Computer 2 Ethernet port; Computer 1 USB to Printer.

My new Laptop will have WiFi;

I was hoping to use my new Access point to connect to a port on the Netgear Hub and therefore retain my existing wired network, but connect to my new laptop wirelessly through the AP; is this OK.

If not would the alternative be to remove the Netgear Hub and connect the AP directly to the ADSL MODEM/GATEWAY/ROUTER and fit NEW WiFi Cards to my two computers (at further expense to me) and connect wirelessly to all three. - If so what Cards would you advise?, having mentioned in previous post my AP type and Laptop wireless details.

Is the connection/configuration set up automatic?

Thank You John

Is the process automatic or is manual ntervention required?

Thanks John

Seeing as they drive on the left side of the rod, very likely they use cross-over cables for everything networked. :D

"JFN" hath wroth:

Ok. You already have a router inside the Zoom 5560. The hub really is a hub.

That will work.

No problem. Leave the hub connected. You can connect the ethernet CAT5 cable from the Dlink DWL-G700AP to *EITHER* one of the LAN ports on the back of the Zoom 5560, or to the Netgear 10baseT EN2005 hub. The ports are essentially equivalent.

There is one potential problem. At the maximum connection speed of Wi-Fi at 54Mbits/sec, the wireless is capeable of transfering data at up to 25Mbits/sec. This is about 3 times faster than what your Netgear 10baseT hub can handle. You will have a bottleneck, but only when transfering data between your computers and the laptop (wired or wireless). It will have no effect on your internet speed as the DSL is undoubtably slower than 25Mbits/sec. I suggest you replace the 5 port 10baseT hub with an equivalent 10/100baseT ethernet *switch* (not a dual speed hub).

None. You have everything that's needed.

No. You'll need to read the instructions that comes with the Dlink DWL-G700AP to setup the wireless part of the network. As I previously mentioned, first get the laptop working by using a direct CAT5 ethernet connection to the router or hub. Once the laptop is updated and functional, then install the DWL-G700AP and setup the wireless.

Thanks Jeff, you have been very helpful; unfortunately the Zoom 5560 only has ONE Ethernet port(used to connect to Netgear Hub, but in view of what you say I can use a port on the Network Hub instead.

I also note your comment about the Netgear 10base T hub; can you suggest a

10/100baseT Ethernet SWITCH alternative, (how does this differ?), and will my Cat5 cables be OK. Do you know the equiv. speed of transfer to/from my hard drives (5500 speed; not 7200), is it less than 25Mbits/sec of wireless?

Again let me say how helpful you have been - thanks!.

Regards John

A cheap Switch I have seen has a spec for cabling as 100base-TX or 10base-T, is this OK or with my Cat5 cables is this the same as 10base-T and therefore would see no change to what I have?

John

100base-TX is fully compatible with cat5

"JFN" hath wroth:

Correct. Think of the external hub as the ethernet switch that's present in most other wireless routers that Zoom decided to leave out to save a few dollars or circuit board real estate.

I have no idea what's available in England. Just about any 5 port or

8 port ethernet *SWITCH* will do. Don't get something that's called a "dual speed hub". I recently bought a case of these switches:

which work fine. You might consider buying the 8 port version. You have 1 router, 2 pc's, and possibly 1 laptop, currently plugged into the existing hub. That leaves you with 1 port left, which may not be adequate depending on what you're planning on adding in the future (TIVO, additional wireless, home automation, etc).

I kinda wish you hadn't purchased the DWL-G700AP. If you had purchased a wireless router instead, and set it up as an access point, you would have also obtained a built in 4 port switch for free. Oh well.

Also, I've had lousy luck with the 5 port switches from Belkin and Dlink. It's not the switch that dies. I sometimes lose the wall wart.

The hard disk speed has NOTHING to do with wireless transfer speed. See:

for maximum speeds at different modes. In the case of your DSL connection, your speed from the internet will probably be limited by the rated maximum speed of your DSL connection. If PC to PC to laptop file transfers are NOT an issue (i.e. no gaming, no DVR) then you can use the existing 10baseT hub without causing any problems. It's only if you plan to move data between your computers at top speeds, that it's an issue.

Jeff,

Have got my laptop up and running and have installed network connection first as you suggested; once that was done I removed this network link and tried to install AP, but I'm having problems; can you help.

Through the Laptop wireless card can connect to internet, but I think from someother network, its a 'default' connection with no protection.

When I try to install my AP from install guide, it fails at first step i.e. When I try to connect thro my Internet Explorer to DWL-G700AP website, address http://192.166.0.50 it will not connect.

I'm attempting this from my laptop either with one of my other wired PC's connected also. - I presume I needto do this from my laptop.

Before trying to install the AP I received a prompt to connect wirelessly via my laptop wireless card instructions or via Microsoft instructions and I've tried both; I presume this is how I can connect to someones default connection.

My AP seems to be working; power on, WLAN light flashing, LAN light 'off'.Again I presume LAN would be 'on' if I connected to my wired network from the laptop.

How do I get connected to DWL-700AP website to allow me to contiue steps thro its set up wizard?

Thanks John

Well I am not John, however, if you connect the desktop or laptop to the AP with an ethernet cable and set the PC or laptop to a static IP in the range of 192.168.0.x, being sure not to use .50 since the access point uses this. Set the subnet mask for 255.255.255.0 and the default gate way to 192.168.0.50., then you should be able to get into the WEB server of the access point. You may have to change the access point LAN IP to match your network if is fixed static at 192.168.0.50 out of the box. From a working PC on the network go to a command prompt and run the following command ipconfig/all, note your IP address, subnet mask, Gateway and DNS for further use. I your IP address listed in the IPConfig is something like 192.168.1.10 then you will need to change the AP LAN IP to 192.168.1.50 instead of the default 192.168.0.50.

Hope this helps,

Danny

Thanks Danny, up and running now.

Didnt appreciate my wireless laptop had to connected to my wired network to enable me to reach AP Website!

John