Need to boost range of wireless

12MBits/sec will give you about 6Mbits/sec thruput. This is faster than the typical DSL although it may cause problems with a faster cable modem connection. However, I suspect that going through the floor of the house results in an unreliable connection, which is the real problem.
  1. Run CAT5 upstairs to the computers.
  2. Run CAT5 upstairs to a 2nd wireless access point.
  3. Setup a 2nd WRT54G and use WDS to repeat the signal. This might be a problem as you can't seem to go through the floor with a wireless client, there's no reason to suspect that it can be done with a repeater.
  4. Setup a wireless repeater. Same problem as #3.
  5. Use the power line to act as a link upstair and setup a repeater. This tends to be limited by the speed of the power line link at about
2Mbit/sec thruput.
formatting link
Run coax cable upstairs with a 2nd antenna. This is lossy, but if the cable lengths are short, it works quite well. This is what I do to deal with the upstairs/downstairs problem at my platial domicile.
  1. Install a directional antenna or reflector on the WRT54G and hope that it penetrates the floor. This is probably the cheapest and easiest solution. A panel, patch, or biquad antenna would probably work. I'm not a big fan of coffee can antennas, but if you can tolerate the aesthetics, that will also suffice. Also:
    formatting link
    Move the WRT54G to somewhere near the middle of the house or at the base of the stairwell. Wireless goes through air much easier than through floors. If your floor is poured concrete, I don't think any form of positioning will help.

Run it to the attic and then to over the bedroom. Install an 2nd access point or wireless router setup as an access point over the bedroom. Ceilings are usually not as heavily built as floors.

Wireless extenders, repeaters, WDS repeaters, and mesh networks all have a small problem. If you need high thruput, they cut your maximum bandwidth in half. That's probably not a problem if you just want to share a DSL or cable modem connection. However, your wireless to wireless thruput will be slow. Methinks you could live with it. Repeaters and extenders are also very specific as to what chipsets and devices they will work with. The newsgroups are full of disappointed users that discover their new wireless repeater doesn't work with their access point or wireless router. WDS is more of the same, but you already have half the puzzle. The WRT54G with Sveasoft Alchemy replacment firmware supports WDS. Buy a 2nd WRT54G to act as a WDS repeater. You can also plug client computahs into the 2nd WRT54G and it will act as a bridge to the first. If you have good connectivity between WRT54G boxes, this is probably the most vesatile and useful arrangment. Unfortunately, it's also the most expensive and complicated to setup.

A WAP (wireless access point) can be wired with CAT5 to the first WRT54G and supply coverage upstairs. You can also use a wireless router as an access point by ignoring the WAN port and router section. You'll find that wireless routers are also cheaper than WAP's. Unlike the extender or repeater, the CAT5 connection is fast, stable, interference free, and always works. A 2nd WRT54G would do the job or just about any wireless device.

Your decision. I would play with location and antennas first. Then decide on the more expensive alternatives if that fails.

Reply to
Jeff Liebermann
Loading thread data ...

I have a small wireless network I've just moved into my new house. I had a desktop hardwired to a Linksys WRT54G, with a desktop and a laptop connecting to the wireless network at my old house.

At the new house I'm connecting 2 more laptops and my wife's desktop via wireless and I've run into a snag. The router is at one end of the house downstairs and wifey's desktop is upstairs at the other end of the house. She connects, but it reads low signal and wavers between 12 MB and 24 MB a second per the linksys utility.

It seems my options to remedy this are running cat5, a range extender, stronger antennas, or a wireless access point. Running cable is a last resort as it could be tough getting to the area of the bedroom that needs the feed as it is under a the lowest point of the attic. The antennas seem a dubious investment. Not sure if the wireless extender thing will really work. Would the WAP do the same thing as the extender? It seems to be a better investment as I could reconfigure it if I need to reconfigure the network in the future.

Any ideas?

Jon

Reply to
Zeppo

Does it work OK? If you are sharing a typical 1.5MB internet connection, it may not matter how fast you are connecting to your LAN...

I'd look at moving the router to (or installing an AP in) a more central location.

Reply to
William P. N. Smith

No. Far too much loss over the distance. Also, if you can run coax, you can also run CAT5 cable.

However PCI card radios have their antennas located in the worst possible place. It's behind a metal shield (computer case), near the floor, and in the middle of a tangle of cables behind the machine. An external panel, patch, or biquad antenna close to the desktop might help. They usually come with < 3ft of coax which is tolerable.

Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

I moved the router about 15 feet down the wall from my desktop, which is in the corner. The signal went from little or no connection to a low power, 'throughput most of the time' connection.

It does get about 1.5 MB sec most of the time, but was hoping to improve that. My laptop gets 3.5 MB/sec on the wireless card using an online speed test. My hardwired Comcast connection at my desktop gives me a solid 6mb/sec from the same site.

If I used an AP would I be better off using a WAP or a signal extender?

Thanks, J> >At the new house I'm connecting 2 more laptops and my wife's desktop via

Reply to
Zeppo

OK, I need to try this, if just for the novelty value of the idea. :-)

Do I use this on the router antennae, or the desktop's PCI card antenna (or both)? If used on the router, do I need one for each antenna or just use it on one?

Thanks, Jon

Reply to
Zeppo

And that's a problem? You can't make use of all that bandwidth on the Internet, anyway.

Reply to
Derek Broughton

The spot in the bedroom where the desktop sits resides over the garage, which has masonry walls. This is probably help block the signal. I get the same reception on my laptop if I use it near the wife's desktop but the signal gets real strong near the door to the bedroom.

Just had a thought... Could I connect a coax cable to the back of the PCI card and run it along the wall to the opposite corner of the bedroom and connect the antenna and the other end near the door? Would I get a lot of signal loss through the cable?

Jon

Reply to
Zeppo

The problem is the signal is flakey there. It fluctuates and stalls occasionally. Maybe I am being unrealistic about how much I can improve it though.

J>

Reply to
Zeppo

Can you run a wire to somewhere in the middle of the first floor, maybe to a closet? That'd probably give you the best results...

Well, if you could get it to work, a repeater would (cut your maximum bandwidth in half and) not require running any wires, but the one time I tried it (with D-Link products) I was completely unsuccessful and had to run separate wires to the individual APs.

I'd use a Linksys WAP54G in a central location.

Reply to
William P. N. Smith

I'm going to give that a try. I'll report back with results.

Thanks, Jon

Reply to
Zeppo

If you have a low signal, a reflector will likely fix the problem.

formatting link
EZ-12, printed on photo paper for thick stock, with aluminum foil glued to the sail, provides a substantial boost in signal.
formatting link

Reply to
dold

Three. Putting it on the PCI antenna will help. Putting it on one of the WAP antennas will help, but I found that if both antennas have signal, my SMC7004WFW would toggle back and forth between the good signal and the poor signal.

formatting link
The signal with the reflector is not only 13dB stronger, it's more stable.

PCI antennas are often blocked by the PC itself. Is your PC facing in the right direction? If there's an upstairs downstairs angle, you might want the antennas at matching angles, so they are "broadside" to each other.

With 54g connections, I find that watching the "current bandwidth" in the Windows perfmon.msc is a pretty good signal indicator. start-run-perfmon.msc + Performance Object = Network Numbers agree with dslreports. + Performance Object = TCP "current bandwidth"

You can watch the throughput while copying locally as well as from the internet. The internet link is the slow link, but I found that a WiFi link that is low and fluctuating while you are observing it is likely hanging from time to time due to poor signal, or other interactions and interference in the house that varies with time.

On one PCI card, I added a "Hawking HAI6SDA Directional 6dBi 2.4GHz Antenna"

formatting link

Reply to
dold

I was talking about running coax within the room the desktop is in. Running cat5 to the router would be a major project in our new house.

I'm going to do a short cable with a homemade reflector and see how that works. Getting the antenna from behind the PC has to help. The PC is a Dell. I've never loved their PCs but the cases they pack them in have great shielding.

Thanks for all the interesting discussion. Regards, Jon

Reply to
Zeppo

Depends on the cable. You're more likely to lose as much as you'd gain. A reflector or better antenna in the same location on a short cable is likely to work better.

David.

Reply to
David Taylor

You can run coax... but not very far unless you buy some *very* good coax (which is about 1/2" or more diameter).

But one other possibility that hasn't been mentioned is to put in a WRT54G and use it in client mode. Then you don't need to run coax, but instead can place the WRT54G at some location where the signal is good enough, and run CAT5 to the computer (use one of the LAN ports, not the WAN port). I don't remember if the Linksys firmware has client mode or if you need to install third party firmware, but that makes little difference because you'd want the third party firmware anyway.

Along the same lines, a lot of people have used USB wireless clients in the same way. I'm not sure how much USB cable can be used, but the specs suggest at least 15 feet if I remember right, though I'd expect it might work with a good bit more length.

Even just moving it a foot or so up above the computer case should have a dramatic effect. However, since you say the laptop doesn't get a good signal there either, it probably won't be enough. Certainly worth trying though.

Reply to
Floyd L. Davidson

I solved my wireless range problem yesterday. I'm 500' from the WRT54g located in the main building. There are steel containers (the ones used for overseas shipping) stacked 2 high and 3 deep between my office and the router. Netstumbler could "see" the router but the signal was nowhere near enough to connect. So I went to BestBuy to purchase an outdoor antenna. There is no such device at my BestBuy. The geek squad guy says get these

7db gain Linksys antennas to replace on the router, and if they don't help just bring them back. ok. I also saw a Linksys PCI card with SRX. (I have a desktop in the outbuilding and was trying to use my USB-G adapter that I use with my 3 year old laptop) So I bought one of them also. Went from a -89db signal to -60db and can connect now.

alien

Reply to
alien

A brand new house and nobody thought to run CAT5 and other cable? I'm playing advisor to a homebuilder that want his houses ready for just about anything electronic that might be needed. I convinced him to run conduit instead of cable (it's cheaper) in the walls and let the buyers decide on what's needed. He ran 3/4 blue FNT "smurf tube" and the first few buyers are complaining that it's difficult to cram in RG-6/u (satellite and CATV), 3 CAT5 cables, intercom, alarm, telco cables and a pull line. Yell at the builder for being cheap.

It should help somewhat.

I resell quite a few Dell computahs. I bit pricy but much better than some other system vendors products.

Good luck.

Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Surprised no one has mentioned the firmware hacks that are available for this model. Also is the router itself in a clear space ?

The sveasoft > > clients in the same way. I'm not sure how much USB cable can be

Reply to
frankdowling1

Normal is 5m for USB though you can chain 5 x 5m active cables to go

25m. However, the cost of 5 active cables would make pulling 25m of CAT5 seem extremely cheap! :)

David.

Reply to
David Taylor

Cabling-Design.com Forums website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.