Im trying to get my brother's computer on our wireless network. i got him a linksys wireless-g network card, but the problem is his computer sits back in a cubby hole in his computer desk so there is almost no signal getting back there. I need to get a wire to relocate that antenna from the network card to the top of his desk, i've seen antenna kits that do this, but they all cost like $40 and im trying to keep the cost down. I drove out to radio shack but they said they didn't have anything like that. where can i get a wire with the correct fittings? does anyone even make such a wire??
On one PC, I added a "Hawking HAI6SDA Directional 6dBi 2.4GHz Antenna"
If you just want the cable, this might fit.
You didn't say which card you have. There aren't that many different connectors. You should unscrew the antenna and bring it with you to check the fit. There are two different Linksys connector pictures at
There's a minimum order of 100, but the pictures are nice ;-)
You could order a "pigtail" from
which seems to think Linksys is a TNC. I know that is what is on my Linksys WAP, but I'm not sure about the cards.
I've been down this same road with a WMP54GS card. I purchased a D-Link antenna
think it's the same antenna as the Hawking model Clarence suggested. You will then have a leftover antenna and I used it on my LinkSys WRT54GS router with the D-Link provided adaptor. The PCI antenna is a bit longer than the stock router antenna so the 2 antennas on the router are slightly different in length. This may help the diversity function of the router. Or maybe not. But the D-Link sits on my desk where as the stock PCI antenna was buried behind my computer amongst a mess of cables. The gain / directional capabilities of the D-Link improved my wireless connection quite a bit. If you get the "indoor antenna extension cable" keep in mind that you will lose signal strength because you are using it with an omni antenna. A "gain" antenna makes up for the signal lose in the cable. But getting the antenna out from behind the computer should give you better reception whether you use the existing omni or a directional antenna but you have to consider signal lose through the cable against the better location of the omni antenna.
Or, you could mount the relocated original antenna in a reflector. The Linksys does have that nice large antenna, unusual for a PCI card. My Netgear had a tiny antenna, less than the height of a PCI card.
EZ-12, printed on photo paper for thick stock, with aluminum foil glued to the sail.
Well, it might be useful as an interference locator. I wouldn't mind if it picked up everything and anything on the 2.4GHz band including microwave ovens. I've been looking for such an interference detector and you may have found one. Check if it can hear your microwave oven.
Ummm... You're cordless phone base should not have been transmitting on 2.4Ghz when the phone is not being used (on hook). Something is wrong here.
I value my work time at $75/hr and my spare time at $25/hr. It takes me about 12 minutes to fill out a rebate form, butcher the UPC code, make copies in case something goes wrong, and prepare the mailing envelope. That's $15 for biz and $5 for home purchases per rebate. If the rebate total does not exceed the value of the time it takes to prepare the rebate, I don't bother. Actually, it's worse than that as my approximately 75% efficiency in successfully getting rebates raises the cost of doing rebates even more. Do the math.
Yep. That's what I thought. Just released so it's too soon for user reviews.
That's really odd. Are you sure that's correct? Perhaps the unit isn't working because it's running on the wrong voltage? Check the docs to be sure before doing the Learn by Destroying thing.
The "page 2" part of that link didn't work for me. That's an omni antenna from Hawking.
For an AP, you might want an omni, but very often a directional antenna is a good application for a given installation. The directional would be preferred in most client applications, but moving the antenna away from the back of the PCI is a good thing at $4.99.
This antenna comes with an RP-SMA connector, so it wouldn't directly attach to the Linksys card that the original poster has. The linksys has a 5dBi stock antenna, although it is behind the PC.
Clarence... see my post same topic 8/21/05 11:17PM for better links to the CompUSA page with details of each antenna. I went out this morning and bought one of each. Just plan to play around with them to see what they will do. Also picked up a Hawking Wi-Fi locator for $10 after rebate. (a toy to play with)
Rebates! I hate 'em! I love 'em! I buy junk that I don't need because of rebates. I ignore solid values that are priced too high because the neighbor on the shelf has a rebate. I avoid buying "another" of something that I liked because it no longer has a rebate.
They seem to be popular at the high volume stores because sending in the rebate requires cutting out the UPC, at which point you can no longer return the item. I'm sure that helps the churn on a poor-performing item at a place like Fry's, sometimes referred to as the "30 day free trial store".
I got a post card in the mail from SanDisk. I had failed to send in the UPC code with a rebate form. Grrr... I called and asked what to do next. She asked me to read the UPC printed on my receipt, which I thought was rather silly, since they had my copy of the receipt, obviously showing the UPC...
The lady asked if I kept a copy of the actual UPC. Of course I had a copy. I always scan everything I send in for rebate. In fact the scanned image of the rebate form neatly showed the tape I used to affix the UPC code to the rebate form! Now she's happy, with me just reading the UPC over the phone. Maybe I'll get that money eventually.
Wifi locator and USB radio in one. Nice LCD display, battery powered,
Here is what you don't want. The Hawking WHL1 Wifi Locator like I bought today. It should really be named "Hawking Cordless Phone Locator". Installed the batteries (see below) and turned it on. Wow! I had the maximum signal everywhere in the house. Unplugged my wireless AP and still had the maximum signal everywhere in the house. Turned off the 2 computers running with wireless and WOW I still had the maximum signal everywhere in the house. Walked out to the street and still had maximum signal. I unplugged the wireless phone base unit and the signal went away. (almost away cause there is a nearby wi-fi signal) Hawking says this in their ads: "The signal filters on the HWL1, filter through all unwanted 2.4GHz signals, such as BlueTooth, cordless phones and microwaves, providing a reliable and accurate reading each and every time." Reading that carefully it does say that it filters THROUGH all unwanted signals. Doesn't say "filters out..." So... I'm gonna keep the device. Only $10 after I send in 2 rebate forms. The ZyXEL AG-225H looks like the real thing. The Hawking locator came with 2 lithium CR2032 batteries. They install piggy backed with the positive sides facing and touching each other. Doesn't seem right but unit turns on.
Yea, rebates are a pain to deal with. Manager at Best Buy told me that BB is doing away with them in near future. I am still waiting on a $70 rebate from Samsung that I mailed on June 15. Most products with rebates these days require
2 forms to be sent to 2 addresses. (store and manufacturer) And like you say... once you cut the UPC from the box you own the product. My conversation with the BB manager was after they gave me the wrong (expired) form to mail in. He had to call Samsung himself and beg them to give me the rebate. (that was another Samsung monitor rebate) I used to get new Norton internet software each year which ended up being free or almost free as the rebates were for upgrades. After doing this for 10 years or so I quit that and went with truly free anti-virus and firewall software. It was always such a pain keeping the old Norton boxes because you never knew what they would ask you to cut out and send in for proof of purchase. Once I had to send in the old CD. And Norton is such a resource hog.
Yes, my microwave oven screams into the locator. With my WRT54GS running (wireless phone off) I get various signal strength readings throughout the house. If I run the microwave and hold the locator very close (1 meter) the device reads nothing. No LEDs at all. When the microwave turns off I get nominal readings. So the microwave is overloading the device when close. If the device is in the same room as the microwave it displays a strong signal. So yes, this looks like what you refer to as an interference detector.
The wireless phone consistently causes the Hawking locator to read max signal (constant) almost anywhere in the house. Unplug the base unit and signal is gone. The phone is a Siemens Gigaset 4215 several years old. The base unit is made to operate with multiple handsets. We have 2. When power is lost to the base unit each handset knows immediately and the display starts blinking. If I change the time of day on one handset the other knows immediately.
Actually the wi-fi locator works well "IF" I turn off the phones and don't use the microwave. It is much easier than walking around with the laptop and net stumbler. The readout updates immediately and gives a good indication of signal strength as I walk around or aim the device. It helped me move my 6db desk antenna a few inches to get a slightly better signal upstairs from the router. I must have been aiming directly into a stud before. All in all I'm satisfied with the device considering that it cost $10 after rebates. Had I paid full fare I would have returned it already. I sent Hawking tech support an email about the inability to filter wireless phones and am waiting for a reply. I don't know what they can say as the device blatantly defies the written specs. I don't have any bluetooth in the house but wouldn't be surprised if it picks up those signals as well. I will play around with it at work tomorrow. We have 8 or so hot spots.
Can't you get an intern to do your paperwork?
I stared at the instructions before installing the batteries. Seems like the +3 volts of each battery would cancel each other. Wording of instructions: "First battery positive (+) facing up. Second battery positive (+) facing down." And it has a small picture of the battery holder... which you remove from the device and install the batteries into. I drew a little circuit and seems the batteries are in parallel. Quite simple when you draw it out on paper.