Stupid (or at least naive) type 110 punch down block questions

"Connector Blocks" are available in four and five pair widths. I use the four pair wide blocks for four pair cable.

I don't know any official standard for which side the strip goes on. I picked one and stuck with it.

As for the connector block, blue is on the left. However, you don't get to choose as it only fits one way.

Just put them in the frame and punch the block onto it. The block has the metal "teeth" that need to be punched. It's best to punch it using a tool with a connector punch down head. Failing that, a standard punch down will work but you'll have to work all four or five pairs. I've even (carefully) used a hammer; but I don't recommend it.

Much of this will be obvious when you get the actual parts.

-Gary

*Your* frame holds 50 pair. There's plenty of other styles and # of pairs. Although the 50 pair one is pretty popular. Also, you can get the connector blocks in any number of pairs. I typically buy them with 4 pair blocks (and then the last one is 5 pairs, and the last pair is typically wasted).

This goes back to older telco wiring. Ie. 66 blocks have a notch every

5 pairs to match up to the color codes which are in groups of 5, etc. etc.

If I had 5 pair connector blocks, I'd still do it 6*4 across the strip. I wouldn't do 5 with a gap inbetween each. Even with the 5-pair connector clips, most "kits" ship with labels that have the 3 pair, 4 pair and 5 pair seperations on them, you just fold it the right way to display.

Even if they ship with 4 pair connector blocks, the lacing frame is typically marked at 5 pair intervals, you just work around it.

110's go left to right. The striped wire of the pair is always the first, just like on 66's or other telco blocks and plugs. Color order is always the same, blue, orange, green, brown, slate.

And if its down to the convention, somebody else can work on it in the future..

I don't necessarily agree with the way he does everything, but this guy does pretty good samples and pictures.

Note, I do like my tools, but this job is one where I believe that the dedicated 5-pair 110 block punch down tool is really worth the money vs. using a regular punch down tool if you do it more than once. If you are doing it just once, then, it may not be worth it.

I lace all the wires into the frame, and punch them down to trim them with the 5-pair tool. Then I punch down the connecting clips with the

5-pair tool for all in the row. The wires hold in the wiring frame well enough for that period without falling out, since they are just friction fit in the plastic fingers before the connecting clip goes on.

Actually, the wiring frame is marked in 5 pair increments, because a standard cable is 5 pairs per color. If you are running 4 pair cables to the block, you terminate 6 cables per row, in order.

Your cqbles terminate from left to right or top to bottom in TR fashion, so that mans the White/Blue wire is first, then Blue/White. If your cable is solid white, then solid blue I'd be a bit concerned that it is NEVER going to be Cat-5e. That tends to be outdoor cable.

There is a specific tool designed to terminate C connectors, but you can use a 110 tool to terminate the wires in the frame. Your problem is getting the C clips to seat properly.. I've seen people use a soft block of wood and a hammer, I've used a 110 tool to seat the left and right side of a clip, but the $70-100 tool is the best.

A search engine query of wiring 110 blocks will give you many results. Something in the order of this

No matter what it says, I always line up the first C connector and punch it down, then the rest just fall into place. I'd never even try to balance a clip on the tool :-)

Carl