Remote install, no AC

Feeding DC into the AC inputs shouldn't fry anything, as long as the voltage isn't too high. It may not work, if the alarm pulls any kind of timing off the 60Hz feed or steps the voltage up via transformer. If it's 12VDC, you could always try powering it via the backup-battery hookup - just make sure to disable the power-loss alarm.

Another option would be a DC-AC power inverter, available from most any autoparts and auto-accessories stores, to give you 120VAC to power the thing "normally". Shouldn't need anything very high-powered.

You could also consider using a car-alarm system, which of course, is designed to work on 12VDC.

"Mickey rigging" stuff is something we're all faced with at one time or another if you've been in this trade for any length of time. Running any rectified alarm panel from a truck battery won't be a problem. Please remember to disconnect it if you're going to start the truck. You can reconnect it once it's running. If you hook up a standard gell cell to the battery terminals that battery will stay charged (though not to full capacity) enough to run the system for an hour or two (depending on the number of attached devices) in the absence of the primary power source.

Hate to interrupt, but do you actually think he meant hooking it up to a truck batt while it was IN the truck? I hardly think so.

Just wanted to cover all the bases. If this site is as "remote" as he hints at, he's going to have to charge the battery from somewhere. Let's just say, it's not "beyond the realm of possibility". I've seen some pretty weird things in the 22 years I've been in this business (in the "oil patch" particularly where "mickey rigging" things is pretty well considered "standard procedure").

Use a solar panel or have them charge batteries with a generator and a power conditioner when they are there.

Yes, thought of that.

My concern is do I just run it off battery backup power?...nothing connected to AC terminals? Someone in the past here was talking about connecting DC to the AC terminals...or is that a figment of my imagination?

Probably gonna use a basic Vista 10P...or If I can find something smaller/simpler...only need a couple of zones, but has to send CID.

Simple solution.

12VDC Alarm System made for properties (or trailer) without AC power. Solar panels, trickle charger can be used to keep 12V battery fresh.

Crash,

I had done this with a old Moose Z-950 that was being powered by a deep cycle battery that was charged by a single solar panel. The solar panel was attached to a special charger for the application. Because of the fact that this was installed in northern Pennsylvania the solar panel was about

18"x18" in size. At this latitude and weather patterns only so many solar days/hours are available to maintain a good charge. Panel needs to be a proper angle (28 degrees as I remember) and facing south(of course). All worked well for about 4 years then the battery finally shorted or something. It had to be replaced. The second battery died just this past month(about 4 years of service). Because I was convinced (by others) that it was best to keep the charge cables as short as possible, I placed the battery in an enclosure on an outside wall with the solar panel directly above. Then ran the power wire inside to the panel. I think that part of the death to the battery was due to the cold temps in the winter. Be advised to try some other plan. You may also need to consider a charged lead/acid battery gives off hydrogen gas when charging, so ventilation is important.

The Z-950 had a positive lead connected to a ac terminal, so the panel never cared about he missing ac power. Since the Z-950 (not to mention many other parts) were hit by a direct lightning bolt 2 years ago it was necessary to install a new panel. The panel that I chose was the Caddx NX-6 did the same trick and all was ok. Had to turn off ac trouble and reporting but otherwise works just fine.

Hope the above was too much information and that you could pull out what you need to continue life. BTW I think I remember that the Ademco products will work but will always show the ac trouble.

Good luck and keep the lurkers up to date on progress and successes. (failures with fixes would be nice to know as well).

Les(back to lurking)

Thanks Frank, it's not that kind of trailer (truck) - its more like a shipping container filled with contractors tools and supplies on construction worksite - you've seen them.

So you're saying I can connect 12VDC from a car battery into, let's say a Vista 10P AC input and I won't fry the panel? I hate to waste a board experimenting.

| > I guess they're thinking of wanting to run system off a truck battery for as | > long as it will last. I had mickey rigging stuff, so any suggestions?? | >

| >

| >

| | | "Mickey rigging" stuff is something we're all faced with at one time or | another if you've been in this trade for any length of time. Running | any rectified alarm panel from a truck battery won't be a problem. | Please remember to disconnect it if you're going to start the truck. | You can reconnect it once it's running. If you hook up a standard gell | cell to the battery terminals that battery will stay charged (though not | to full capacity) enough to run the system for an hour or two (depending | on the number of attached devices) in the absence of the primary power | source. |

Crash, I've been hooking panels up this way for eons in boats. Long time ago, I ran into one panel that wouldn't work but later found out that it was polarity sensitive on the AC terminals, for some reason. Never fried a panel. Can't speak for any of the newer more sophisticated panels but a call to tech support ( talk to someone who's been around for awhile) will let you know for sure. If there's a bridge rectifier at the input, DC in, will work.

Cool. I'll check an old Vista and see if theres a bridge rect. in it, and try that first. Must better than calling ADI India for an answer :-(

Polarity sensitive...thanks for that tip!

TNX. Rob

| > So you're saying I can connect 12VDC from a car battery into, let's say a | > Vista 10P AC input and I won't fry the panel? I hate to waste a board | > experimenting. | >

| >

| Crash, I've been hooking panels up this way for eons in boats. Long | time ago, I ran into one panel that wouldn't work but later found out | that it was polarity sensitive on the AC terminals, for some reason. | Never fried a panel. Can't speak for any of the newer more | sophisticated panels but a call to tech support ( talk to someone who's | been around for awhile) will let you know for sure. If there's a bridge | rectifier at the input, DC in, will work. |

Try 12 VDC to the AC and see if it works or not. Should not cause any damage.

Also a car battery when charging will emit flammable gas, I think hydrogen. So be sure to install battery outside in a well ventilated area and away from anything which would spark. Place warning signs around this area (CYA) No smoking, no sparks, flammable, etc. I would imagine that they would be working when the battery is charging (day time).

More info

Ok cool, I'll t ry to blow an old vista this weeekend. THanks for the battery link.

Gotta look for a solar battery charger...perhaps a marine supply house.

I hate this shit...I bet when I get the whole system designed and give them a proposal they will respond: Oye, that's way too much, we thought it would be maybe a couple of hundred bucks.

Hey thanks for the input.

Reverse temperature problem here. Right now the coldest it will get is only

32F, in the summer the interior of the container will probably approach 140+. Yah venting the battery will be important.

I have to research a solar charger next.

Thanks everyone for your input!

| > My concern is do I just run it off battery backup power?...nothing | > connected | > to AC terminals? Someone in the past here was talking about connecting DC | > to | > the AC terminals...or is that a figment of my imagination? | >

| > Probably gonna use a basic Vista 10P...or If I can find something | > smaller/simpler...only need a couple of zones, but has to send CID. | >

| >

| >

| >

| >

| | |

Crash,

If you're going to use a solar charger, do NOT use a truck battery. Instead, wire four or five 12V7AH gel cells in parallel and charge those from the solar unit. As mentioned earlier, truck batteries emit hydrogen gas -- not a good thing inside an enclosed room. Also, after the truck battery becomes fully discharged (during a long, overcast period, for example), the solar unit will need to be pretty powerful to restore it. A lesser charging unit may fail or pop a fuse. Five gel cells together won't draw as much juice while charging as will one

100AH truck battery.

Regards, Robert L Bass

good point thanks.

I was the one asking how to hook up somethinng like this a while back. I finaly decided to use a vista 20p and wire the dc power in to the battery terminals. I also wired the neg side of the battery into one of the AC power terminals. "to allow the panel to power up if it lost all dc power to it". This worked, but only lasted for a few months

:( Just today I was called back because the panel had died. When I looked at the panel I found a component on the board had smoked. I am not sure if it died because of the way it was hooked up or if something else caused it.

James

They make a solar charged 12 volt dc and 120 with inverted i have used the

12 volt system no roblem and made one myself using as solar charger i bought at an auto parts store and a20 amp 12 volt gell cell and it works very well

If yer north of the 49th, Canadian Tire has several models - check their catalog listings here:

They advertise them mostly for camping and similar outdoor activities; a similar type of outlet may have them in the US.

Now there's a sucker bet if I ever heard one :)