Does each x-10 module require a different code to operate with the Super remote, or is it a matter of direction? For instance, if x-10 controlled lamps are right next to each other and you are across the room and point the remote in their general direction, are you likely to affect both lamps by pressing a single button?
Thanks in advance.
X-10 remotes emit an encoded signal in an essentially omnidirectional radio signal. There's no point to aiming an X-10 remote control.
The encoded signal will be picked up by an X-10 transceiver that you've plugged into a wall outlet, somewhere. The transceiver looks like a small white box with an antenna on it. They usually do double-duty as an lamp or appliance module.
Transceivers appear to be tuned to a single house code (somebody will correct me if I'm wrong), and will only respond to one of the 16 possible blocks of codes if it matches its selected house code. (The house code is the first letter of a code, i.e., if the code is E6, the house code is "E".) There are 16 house codes, A - P. Each house code has 16 unit codes, 1-16.
When the transciever picks up a code meant for its selected block, it will then rebroadcast that code over the house power lines. Any modules connected to those lines will listen to these X-10 signals on the power lines. If the module's code matches the broadcast code, it will execute the command (on, off, dim).
So, the answer to your question is that if both lamps are plugged into the same module, or if they are plugged into modules programmed with the same code, they will generally both respond together. Their physical location doesn't really matter much, so long as they are plugged into modules that are on connected house power lines.
So if I understand your response: I would simply program each module with a different code...something I assume is do-able with the PC and appropriate software. Then, to affect lamp A I press button A on the remote and to affect lamp B I press button B on the remote. (What happens if you have more modules than buttons -- do you need more remotes?) This will work only if I am in range of the transceiver, and my distance from the lamps is irrelevant.
Have you visited their website FAQ? Would the following exchange change your response?
Q: Will ActiveHome Pro receive RF from remote controls and execute macros? A: Yes. This is actually one of the key improvements that makes ActiveHome Pro more responsive. It will receive a command directly from your RF remote and start sending the X10 macro commands. This saves the time it used to take by receiving the command first at a transceiver then passing that command down the power line to the CM11A module. You'll see a definite improvement in how fast your lighting scenes come alive.
No, you have to use more sophisticated tools in order to program the modules. A small screwdriver. You're just setting the position of two
16-position rotary switches (house code A-P and unit code 1-16)There are various kinds of remotes.
The HR12 ("switchpad?") can address all 16 unit codes on its buttons -- you have to set the house code with a screwdriver.
Keychain remotes are programmable for two to four consecutive unit codes on any house code.
Wall switches can be programmed for up to 3 consecutive unit codes.
....and the list goes on and on, including various computer-controlled remotes that can emit the radio signals or powerline signals on demand.
I guess.
Essentially.
ActiveHome Pro is a product that consists of a Windows program and a powerline interface, if I remember correctly. The powerline interface is bidirectional, so it can receive a radio remote signal that's been picked up by a transceiver on the powerline.
When the program detects a particular code, it can trigger a macro to emit a bunch more codes, controlling a series of devices.
And, for what it's worth, there are also motion detectors that emit radio codes. These can be used to directly control appliance or lamp modules, or to trigger something like ActiveHome Pro to emit a series of codes.
Keep in mind that X-10 can be very frustrating to use. It works 95% of the time. And then there are the times when you cannot figure out why the damned things are going nuts. Presumably, it's a combination of noise on the lines and insufficiently robust circuit design.
It's good enough for non-critical use.
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