mum's the word on howto tweak smoke detector

I'm a computer geek, and am about to discard another cheap ionization smoke detector that has gotten too sensitive to put up with. Cleaning the little chamber didn't help much, though yes, that often worked in years past, on other units I've had.

Actually, I'm thinking of tweaking the sensitivity with unauthorized do-it-yourself circuit mods. I'll want to destroy the unit before I let it fall into another's hands, but I'll accept the increased risk of myself dying in a home fire that using such a device entails. Maybe I'll disguise it as an abstract sculpture or something, so nobody else would ever come to rely on it to detect smoke ;-)

But this brings up some issues;

a) how can I properly calibrate it, and later retest it, using actual smoke? Like using a measured amount of tobacco on a red-hot heater, and ducting that into a known volume trash bag or box... I've never seen this topic discussed, and wonder if the old TEST button is a credible witness of sensitivity, now that I think about it...

b) If this works out, should I ever admit it to my friends? We're all just a few degrees away from the most monstrously inept/stupid/deranged person one might ever envision, and I'd be enabling that "friend of a friend of a friend" to construct a passively hazardous device {or large assemblage of same.}

c) And why doesn't there seem to be any prior postings on this HOWto ? Do they get censored by somebody eventually? Sure, it may be to discuss in a public forum, from a strictly personal-legal-liability standpoint, but that wouldn't normally prevent the topic arising, judging from the blatantly unwise / illegal things I see out on the internet already. {Porno sites, prescription drugs offered by correspondance. Ech!}

Reply to
Frank Winans
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Quit using ionization detectors and stick with phot-electrics. They are much more sensistive at detecting fire in the early stages.

Reply to
Eyeball Kid

I think it has something to due with the life expectancy of smoke detectors. I read 10 years is max. But I really think it has more to do with cost, they are not expensive so why save a few pennies over ten years by reusing junk? Do you strain your engine oil to get another

20,000 miles out of it? Do you rip off and keep the unused areas of the toilet paper so you can get all you can out of it? Do you rifle through the dumpster looking for uneaten meat from restaurants? Do you wash out the condems thinking that saves you money? Boy, some people are just CHEAP!
Reply to
Jen...tel

Reply to
Roland

Reply to
nick markowitz

you eat cockroach?

and you say that eating snail is bad!!! LOL

"Roland" a écrit dans le message de news:

45a7f2a8$0$16707$ snipped-for-privacy@roadrunner.com...
Reply to
Petem

The only way I'm aware of determining the sensitivity of a smoke detector or smoke alarm, is with a calibrated test instrument such as those available from SDI and Gemini Scientific.

SDI ->

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Gemini ->
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In the early stages of a fire:

Ionization smoke detection is more responsive to flaming fires, which produce ionized particles, and is less responsive to smoldering fires, which produce particles that are not ionized.

Photoelectric smoke detection is more responsive to smoldering fires, which produce particles of sufficient size to scatter light, and is less responsive to flaming fires, which produce particles too small to scatter light.

Frank W> I'm a computer geek, and am about to discard

Reply to
mbbaker

wrote

Thanks! I love to learn what tools are out there! I can see I've got a lot of reading up to do on this stuff.

The description of how an ion chamber works, found at

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the smoke makes neutral the ionized air created by the alpha radiation, and thus 'chokes off' the usual electrical current flow through the chamber. I can see now how moist air causes false tripping, as it is noted for eradicating bound static charges. I suppose pollen can cause tripping too, as it wastes the available static charges on somewhat ponderous pollen grains, which only sluggishly convey the current flow between the two plates.

I'm glad optical systems have progressed; back in the 70's I tinkered with a HeathKit unit that was a real disappointment to me. But I have a lot of friends that would rather do without a home detector at all, than spend twice as much for a decent unit. So it may be choosing between a cheap ion unit, or nada.

And I understand the professional interest in proper alarm safety here, but I'm guessing other stupid things we do are a lot bigger cause of lost lifespan than dying in a nighttime fire. So yeah, get a good alarm, but don't be smug about it if you're obnoxious in biker bars, help some gun nut's wife cheat on him, drive drunk a lot, or do crime for recreation. Oh, and are living mostly junk food, while being a lazy couch potato.

Reply to
Frank Winans

Reply to
Roland Moore

I think that describes everyone here. What's your point?

Reply to
Roland Moore

average fire allowed to go unchecked will usually run you abt $4000 to $120,000 to repair and rebuild.

avg cost of new walmart fire detector is abt $8.00

no brainer to figure cost /risk advantage !

Reply to
<hapticz

wrote

Main deterrent is spouse/friends deprecating the model selected when it starts {or always did!} false-tripping someday... You guys here are savvy about alarms -- I'm not so lucky. And I like Walmart, I even use their $8 wrist watches, but I'm well aware the itsy-bitsy battery won't outlive the leather straps that used to cost me so much to replace on my beloved Timex watches. It's just a whole 'nother way of life being a Walmart faithful customer. Back on topic though, I don't see any consumer reports tracking the false-alarm long term characteristics / features of these units, which is all I personally care about. {Ok, they do mention a 'sleep while I dump this ruined potroast' feature, but that's it. And who's really going up a ten foot ladder just to punch even _that_?} And if you rent, one's own property cost and healt risks are far outweighed by the sake of the {possibly many} neighbors'...

Reply to
Frank Winans

I would never trust my family to an $8.00 detector purchased at Walmart. Invariably they are ionization type, and I'd recommend using photo-electrics for most residential applications.

Reply to
FIRETEK

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