How do I restart House Alarm

I moved into a new house a few months ago and the previous owner had a house alarm. It's a DCS Classic PC1555. It started going off while I was moving in so I called the company and they had me unplug it and disconnect the battery in the control panel.

I found the instruction manual online and I'd like to start using it again, but without paying someone to come out and plug it in. I tried plugging it in myself and reconnecting the battery, but the alarm immediately starts to go off. The manual I found says nothing about what to do when plugging it in. Can anyone help me with this?


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get the user code from previous owner and turn it off after plugging in transformer and then battery.

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"Don" wrote in message news:etYhh.1760$

The user code will help if you can get it, but that is only a start. There are going to be some other issues you will face with this panel. There may be some items programmed into the system that will cause trouble conditions on the panel (lights and constant beeping) if they are not deprogrammed. This will require the installers code to do. That is different than the master "user" code. Some of the troubles that will have to be cleared are the memory light if that is on, a low battery trouble, either from the main panel or any wireless devices or both, since it has been without power at some point and may not have had time to recharge, (sensor batteries don't recharge), resetting the internal clock since it has been completely powered down, and if it has been connected to a phone line, which it sounds like it has been, failure to communicate for loss of AC and/or low battery, daily test, if programmed, or any other alarms that may have been tripped since last used. If the previous company programmed the telephone line monitoring feature, when you disconnect the alarm panel from the telephone line it will again go into trouble. This feature will also need to be reprogrammed if you don't want monitoring. All of the zone programming features will need to be checked to see that it fits your lifestyle as in entry/exit times, motion detector set up, entry exit doors, panic buttons, smoke detectors etc. There is required programming for each device. Who knows what has been turned on or off over time. All user codes, 32 possibililties, will need to be cleared. You don't know who may have codes to that system. If the system is to be used as a local system only, the previous account number and central station phone numbers will also need to come out or the system will try to dial the numbers upon an alarm and when it can't get through the system will again go into trouble. Your phone line needs to be disconnected from the panel and the phone line rewired so the panel no longer comes into play. Otherwise you could experience telephone line problems especially if you have or intend to add DSL service. My best advice is to call an alarm service company to come out and set you up as a local system. A small local company is your best bet for this. It would be a one time cost. You may have a hard time finding a company that is interested in do this since monitoring is important to most alarm companies. Tell them you will be happy to pay their hourly service rate but you are not interested in monitoring. The main problem you will face is the installer code issue. Call the company that used to have that account. They will know the code but chances are will not share it since it is proprietary. Tell them to take it out after they service it or leave it and you will use them for service in the future on an as needed basis. If they won't do it, see if they will at least deprogram the installer code. They may be able to do this over the phone from their computers. Once set up, your users manual will let you use the system to the extent that most all people use their system. Buy a new battery, either a

12volt 4 amp hour or a 12volt 7 amp hour if there are alot of motions, keypads, glassbreaks and/or smoke detectors on the system. The service company can do this. If you choose to, take the battery with you to compare at the place of purchase. It won't hurt either way but start out with a new battery. It needs to be changed about every three years. If there are wireless devices on the windows and doors, or any other of the devices, change those batteries as well. Don't go through the hassle of changing each one as it goes low. Start out fresh with all of them. Good Luck!
Reply to
Bob Worthy

Wow, that's a lot of stuff. Thanks for giving me so much detail. I'll definitely be contacting a professional to help get it set back up.


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Yes, Bob's instructions are very thorough and pretty much sum up everything that could have possibly gone wrong. And your best bet is also to contact the installing company as he says.They may very well be able to do things remotely right from their office.

But there is also another option as well if you cannot find an alarm company that is willing to bother with setting up the system as a "local" (non monitored) system. Go up on the internet and download the installer manual and programming sheets from wherever you can find them. Then default the panel back to factory according to instructions, and reprogram for local use (this assumes the panel is not "locked" in software, in which case everything will go back to factory except the installer code, and the panel is now useless for all intents and purposes). But if it does default, you can start fresh (If it doesn't, then you have the choices of either buying a new board, or sending it to one of three places to be unlocked - approx cost $20)

Next comes the problem of knowing how to do this of course, and this is where the assistance of someone who knows how to program it is very useful (and in most cases this IS the alarm company installer). It's somewhat unfortunate, but alarm panels by and large are not "end user friendly" when it comes to low level programming and set up. They are sold primarily for use and service by professional alarm companies, but there are an increasing number of sources to buy them directly on the internet these days.

At some point, the cost / benefit point has to be looked at to decide just how far you may or may not want to go with the whole business of doing it yourself. However, I point this out ONLY as perhaps the last alternative if all else fails. And this whole post might very well be carrying the subject line a little too this might be more information than you wanted to know...:))

Good luck in any event !

R.H.Campbell Home Security Metal Products Ottawa, > Wow, that's a lot of stuff. Thanks for giving me so much detail. I'll

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You best get the security code for it, if it's lost I'm not sure you can recover it on these panels. I installed about a dozen or so years ago, and if memory serves me correct they are trash if the codes lost. Dave

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No, there's nothing that is not recoverable in the DSC 1555 panel. As it happens, I just finished defaulting over 20 of these "locked" panels today, as well as about 10 of its big brother the Power 832. By putting them back to factory, you recover everything you need to make them fully functional again. If they come in both locked AND in alarm, it's only slightly harder, but still possible.

Take my word for it; they ARE fully recoverable !! I do dozens every week. Some weeks I make more profit doing that than I do installing actual alarms.

I do all models of Paradox and DSC; Action Jackson out in Western Canada does even more makes, and Jim Rojas in this newsgroup is the best at it by far. I don't believe there is anything he can't unlock.

And no, don't ask any of us how its done....:))

R.H.Campbell Home Security Metal Products

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Sheesh. js

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Are you selling your wares here that you bitch about when others do?

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Hmmm...seems you have me confused with someone else. I don't personally care who sells what here although many complain about it being against the charter. It seems pretty obvious when someone is peddling something, and I think most readers can see it. The only time I can remember I've said anything at all is with regards to Belgian Paul, or the Loxxon product, or the "free system" nonsense, and those are a different kettle of fish....

Go back to sleep Mike...

R.H.Campbell Home Security Metal Products Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Group-Moderator wrote:

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Note: Michael Sabodish (who is NOT a moderator although he fraudulently pretends to be such) is actually the owner of a website that tries to sell products in this and several other newsgroups.

There really isn't anything that could be called a "charter" although there is a FAQ which was written about 6 or 8 years ago by a gentleman who no longer participates in this newsgroup. The doccument, long ignored by virtually every regular poster, sought to define what is and what is not acceptable online behavior. Many, like Sabodish, have tried to use it to hammer those they oppose, all the while violating the letter and the spirit of the same FAQ.

Since the "FAQ" is nothing more than the writing of one ex-participant and since it has never been endorsed by anyone or anything with any authority, it is pretty much irrelevent. Interestingly, one of the most abusive participants in this newsgroup, someone who has been asked by scores of members of various other newsgroups as well as this one to either behave like an adult or go away (mostly the latter), has copied the FAQ on his own website in an effort to try to legitimize said website.

Some of us who sell online are quite up front about it. I often state when talking about something which I sell that "I am not entirely withoug bias about [product] because I sell it." That seems fair and reasonable.

Are you sure that was sleep and not some other mode of diminished consciousness? :^)

Reply to
Robert L Bass

a FAQ which was written about 6 or 8 years ago by a

On the contrary. Steve only participates when you're on one of your extended "holidays"...

Sabodish, have tried to use it to hammer those they oppose,

For many years, you were the only one violating the letter and spirit of the FAQ. In fact, you've viewed this Group as your own personal "help forum" for years, all the while denigrating the very "trade" you say you're in. Payback's a bitch, ain't it?

since it has never been endorsed by anyone or anything

most abusive participants in this newsgroup, someone

this one to either behave like an adult or go away

to legitimize said website.

Heh... right, Bass. The FAQ (at

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isn't there to "legitimize" any web site. It's convenient to have it there so visitors to the Group can see that it was founded by a person with "vision" and to act as a "foil" for most of the things you say here. Unlike you, I've never been "banned" (or ousted) from a Newsgroup, so what "abuse" are you accusing me of now? And unlike you, I've never had my ISP terminate my account because I was abusing a Group by cancelling other people's posts. This has got to be one of the most disingenuous posts you've ever made.

talking about something which I sell that "I am not


The only problem is that your "bias" extends to products which you've never used and would never recommend. You think DSC's "junk", but you extoll it's virtues. You're nothing more than a carnival shill... "Come see the most stupendous daredevil act ever witnessed as the Mighty Elk M1 goes head-to-head with Ademco Lynx"...

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