Jeff Liebermann - since you seem to be the one in the know

J

Jeff Liebermann 19 years ago

Danny Kile hath wroth:

It's also the most complex.

The problem with using wireless inside the RV is that it will create interference to/from the RV park system if on the same channels. As I indicated, you will be changing channels as you roam.

It would be tempting to repackage this in an outdoor box and attach it to the roof. The usual problems of theft and vibration damage will need to be considered. If you don't want to deal with do it thyself, then a packaged client radio can be purchased, and use the Buffalo inside as an access point.

Many of these are USB radios. You'll have to use ethernet because it will plug into a router.

Most bottom of the line routers have everything on one board including the radio.

Correct.

You have a choice. It could be used as a router (thus creating double NAT) for added protection against hostile campers intent on attacking your computers. Or, it could be setup as an access point, with nothing going to the WAN port. Either will work.

All wireless routers have an access point mode. Just disable DHCP server, don't use the WAN port, set the IP address for something that doesn't conflict with the rooftop client and RV park router, and you have an access point.

That's the rooftop wireless ethernet client bridge. It doesn't have either channel or SSID assigned. It does a "site survey" or "scan" and obtains a suitable channel and SSID from the RV park router.

Different SSID and different channel.

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D

Danny Kile 19 years ago

I thought that one would remove the antenna on the router radio and connect the panel antenna to the router, that you have in the panel box.

Danny Kile,

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J

Jeff Liebermann 19 years ago

Danny Kile hath wroth:

That will also work. As I indicated 3 messages ago, this is mostly a mechanical exercise. Whether the antenna is attached, removable, motorized, telescoping, or just hung in a window, is your decision. There's just too many options for me to itemize and detail.

In general, I've found it best to "modularize" such indeterminate installations, where the antenna, radio, mounting, and PoE injector are separate boxes, allowing maximum versatility. However, if you want integrated, almost anything suitable for a WISP CPE (customer premises equipment) will work.

Search Google and eBay for "wireless CPE".

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S

seaweedsteve 19 years ago

Some thoughts: IF you are going with the exterior client/interior AP solution, then I'm thinking that I'd just put the antenna outside and keep both routers inside.

This allows you to access and maintain (reset, substitute, replace) the client radio/router more easily and makes it easier to "coddle" it from weather and vibration.

Maybe a bit simpler and cheaper to set up.

Cable loss is the trade-off. You want low-loss cable, shortest runs, etc. I wonder if you can install a gasketed bulkhead style antenna connector on the RV exterior so that the antenna cable can be disconnected or changed on either side when needed.

For the antenna, exterior 12-14 db panel antennas can be had for $30 or less. Might start with a simple, provisional mount for the antenna, any pole-ish thing you can find for temporary mounting and just point it manually each time you arrive.

Once you see how it goes, you could then work out the automated optimized mount.

For the inside signal, it seems like any functioning AP/router would be fine, only talks to the client router via ethernet.

Jeff is saying that interference from the interior AP is an issue. You could maybe work on that with positioning or power level? Selective shielding? Seems like the RV itself would be a big shield....

I look forward to hearing how this works out. I'm learning a lot from this forum!

Cheers, Steve

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Danny Kile 19 years ago

I thought about this but the cable length would be long, so I thought ethernet. The access panel on the side of the RV is about mid way on street side of unit. If I had some movable ground telescoping mast then I could have on the side front or back. the length of cable would be 20 feet to be able to reach front or back and 20 up the mast, 40 or 50 ethernet cable would be OK, but 40 foot of coax would be to long.

The RV is fiberglass so I would not think it would do much shielding, if it was metal, then yes.

It maybe some time before I get all this going still waiting to sell the stick home before moving into the Fifth-wheel. Hopefully this spring when sales picks back up. Maybe as a test and practice I may set this up and pretend the next doors neighbor router is the HotSpot AP. She would not mind she already said I could use it and DSL and cancel my DSL. She is far enough away that it is poor or no access with a Laptop directly.

Thank you for your response,

Danny Kile

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seaweedsteve 19 years ago

Sounds like #4 MAY not be your solution after all.

Still, I wonder if you could get by with a 30' LMR400 (low-loss) cable. That's about 2.5 db loss, I figured (plus connectors). Knocks a 12 db antenna down but not out. 15' to the front or back of the RV and 15' up? And if the antenna was mounted on the roof, you'd only be going up......

Hawking makes/sells a 30' one, I got it at compUSA. A bargain at $30.

The shielding issue may be more of an issue since the RV fiberglass. I wonder how much you really need to do that if you are vigilant about keeping your interior channel away from the hotspot's channel.

Steve

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