Oh, ok, it makes sense now, but only after holding the following sentence up to a mirror (since it's completely backwards): "The DSL modem intercepts all traffic on the WAN (DSL) side destined to the management IP address (192.168.1.1)."
Change WAN to LAN and DSL to Ethernet. Little things like that tend to throw me a bit.
I think I asked the same question 3 times and got the same answer 3 times, none of which answered my question, so I'm willing to let it rest. :-)
If you wanted wifi, you would have to pair it with another router, not just a switch. Well I never saw a switch with wifi. I don't think they sell the plain WAPs these days, though I still have two Dlink WAPs (B speed) if I really wanted to put a WAP on a switch.
No, you'd never intentionally pair it with a second router. If you wanted Wifi, you'd pair it with an access point, but you'd most likely connect that AP with a switch to give you a couple of wired ports at the same time.
Note that any wireless router can be configured as an access point. Sloppy installers/users will forget to do that configuration, resulting in two routers in series. Not good.
If I bought a wireless router, then isn't it far less work to simply DMZ to the the router instead of having to figure out how to make the router be a WAP? For one thing, I don't have to delve into the guts of a what the ISP peddles, but can simply use as little as necessary on the modem then do the heavy lifting on the router that I purchased which has support and detailed documentation.
What's to figure out? Disable DHCP, connect the upstream router to a LAN port versus the WAN port, and you've turned a wireless router into an access point. That's not a lot of work. If you're comparing the number of mouse clicks compared to DMZ'ing the first router to the second router, it's probably a wash at maybe half a dozen, max.
Every situation is different, but daisy chaining routers would very rarely be my first choice.
I only belatedly realized the Home Depot cat5e outdoor cable has the length printed every two feet.
It turns out that the 'estimated' outdoor 100 feet turned into 224 actual feet of cable! (The printed numbers start at the antenna at 017350 feet and end at the office wall plate at 017526.)
Personally, I'm amazed I put that much wire in the house! I made a lot of mistakes!
For one thing, I put a LOT of wire in loops in the floor rafters (for future use) but I must have put way too much there. Also I left quite a lot outside so that when I bury it, I can route around obstacles - but - again, I left quite a lot.
The main mistake I made was buying 500 feet of the expensive outdoor wire. In hindsight, I 'should' have bought 150 feet of the tan outdoor stuff, and the rest indoor blue plenum stuff because half the wire I bought will be inside the house.
But I made a LOT of other mistakes!
For example, look how CLOSE I came to cutting the electrical wire in half!
They're an easy line-of-sight connection at -65 dBm yet the AP is about a mile or two away (hard to tell just by looking). (I always wondered if the ACK information in the radio is accurate for telling me how far the AP is actually away from me?)
Hilltop told me to put the radio in bridge mode but they said they preferred the extra protection of router mode - but they didn't want to get fancy on the initial setup.
Here's my water-pipe antenna, simply stuck into an existing hole in the ground!
I was originally in router mode, with NAT on the radio ... so I 'think' I was originally double nat'd. But, now I'm in bridge mode (because the WISP provider had me change access points to one that didn't do DHCP).
My setup now is bridge mode with the WISP-supplied IP address and the WISP supplied gateway. Then I have my broadband router.
So the only firewall is the broadband router.
Here's a picture of the antenna and radio (set up as a bridge) on the ground:
The stuff I excavated on eBay is not outdoor cable. There are various flavors of outdoor cable. What I think you have is UV proof but not not waterproof (gel filled). I can't tell from here and the Comtran web pile is useless:
However the problem is not UV protection. Since you're just dumping the cable on the ground, you're going to punch holes in it every time someone walks on it. Same with critters chewing on the cable. What you'll need is UV proof, water proof (gel filled), and armoured. Or, you can use some form of conduit.
Don't spiral the coax down the mast. When you drop the mast for maintenance, you leave far too many opportunities to punch holes in the coax when it hits the ground. Same with leaning a ladder against the mast for inspection. Also visualize what multiple cables going down the mast will look like. Run the cables down the BACK side of the mast and secure with black, UV proof, ty-wraps.
Also, in a previous post, you mentioned other electronics stores in the SF Bay area. Here's a map,
created by Glenn Geller, as posted in ba.internet.
Well, blue ink on paper, inside a vinyl sleeve will work. The only problem is that after about 2 years, the blue ink will fade to invisible ink. I use a proper label maker, vinyl labels, and use scotch tape to attach to wire. I also don't use such long labels as bending the wire puts the label under tension, which eventually breaks. I once labeled a phone closet full for station wire, only to find a year later that all 25 labels had fallen off.
Nope. Labeling the 2x4 is for mid span identification. You still have to label the end points. Labeling the hole is also problematic if you have more than one cable through it. It's mostly a convenience when dealing with later rework.
Incidentally, when going between floors, I try to use conduit instead of just running the wires. Many reasons, but the big one is that going between floors is more difficult than horizontal runs. Where there's one cable, there's always a need for more. My own derangement has about 10 cables crammed into 1" conduit between upstairs and downstairs.
No, it's not even close. Flight time (speed of light) is about 1ft per nanosecond. A mile would be about 6 microseconds. The best resolution you could get with ping is perhaps 0.1 millisecond. Most of the ping delay is in the CPU and attendent IP stack in the router.
Here's a spare time math problem. Calculate the area of the antenna. Estimate your maximum local wind speed. Calculate the wind load on the antenna and the mast. Tie a rope to the antenna and pull with the calculated wind load. If the mast falls over, find some guy wires or ropes.
I can't tell from here how deep the mast extends into the ground, how much concrete is in the hole, or soil conditions.
Good. That should work better than double NAT.
See the 4 screws securing the bracket to the antenna? If the pipe hits the coax connector and radio, then simply unscrew the bracket, rotate 180 degrees, re-attach, and you have an offset mount. Having the antenna mounted unsymmetrically may seem a bit odd, but it should work.
Also, verify whether you're vertically or horizontally polarized. No clue what Hilltop is using, but it should be the same. Mounting it at a 45 degree angle, as in a previous photo, will work, but not very well.
I'm always right (except when I'm wrong). I have a roll of nylon twine, that I've marked every 10ft, that I use for estimating cable runs (and also as a pull line). The numbers on the cable jacket are handy for calculating if there's enough cable left in the box to do the job.
Neither is suitable if you're just dumping it on the ground. What you want is direct burial cable, preferably gel filled, and possibly armored. That's not cheap, but you only will need about 175 ft of it. You won't find that at Home Despot, but might find it at an electrical supply house. However, eBay is cheaper:
About $150/1000ft. Watch out for shipping charges. The stuff is heavy. Notice the flakey white stuff on the wires. That's the gel. I hate the stuff.
I wonder what the pros will say about all that extra cable. I normally leave a single loop, maybe 12-18 inches, so that I can reterminate the end if a connection fails. I don't know what the 'best practices' are.