I live in an apartment (so messing with the in-wall fixtures is out of the question), and I have 2 lamps in my living room.
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I live in an apartment (so messing with the in-wall fixtures is out of the question), and I have 2 lamps in my living room. One of the lamps is controlled by a switch on one side of the room ... flip the switch, and there's light. The other one, however, we have to turn on by hand because it's across the room and there is no way to wire the two lamps to be on the same outlet.
Is there a solution out there which will help me set it up so that the light switch I have now (I don't want to add another switch) can control both lights?
Is there a gadget that will hook up to the outlet which is currently controlled by the wall switch (between the outlet and the lamp), and somehow send a signal (either via IR or the power lines) to another "gadget" that is set up between the second lamp and an always-on outlet? This way, when I flip the switch, both lights come on.
Anyone have any suggestions? I'm a newbie at this stuff, so any pointers will be appreciated.
This is a perfect task for Home Automation. See my addition to your drawing, below:
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That's a much better question. :)
Purchas an Insteon switch from
Score. A video showing what you want to do, on the smarthome site:
That's really tough. Since you can't change the switch or outlet and probably cannot put holes in the ceiling, the methods suggested will not work.
Anything you use in the switched outlet will lose power when the outlet is switched off. You might be able to modify a plug-in emergency light (one that operates off of a battery when the 120V power is off) to send an RF signal (using a modified keychain remote) to an RF controlled lamp module into which the other lamp is plugged. GE Smarthome offers some inexpensive RF controlled modules.
This might be a solution.
He specifically stated he did not wish to do any rewiring (like replacing the in-wall switch).
This one area where "X-10 is not for newbies or apartment dwellers" doesn't apply.
For that one lamp using a TM751 or RR501 and a remote will at least give non-local control of the remote lamp -- but not simultaneous control of both. Using a pair of transceivers and a "stick-a-switch" would allow controlling both lamps at the same time (but not include dimming) without worrying about rewiring or possible "different phase" issues with the outlets.
If he can somehow verify that the outlets are on the same phase then a single transceiver and a pair of lamp modules would allow control and dimming.
Lamp modules are cheap so I would suggest at least trying that. Buy 2 lamp modules, a TM751, and a cheap key-chain remote or a stick-a-switch and see if it works. If not then just buy another TM751 to get to the other phase.
Jump on EBay and search for:
LM465 TM751 SS13A KR19A
The TM751 defaults to unit code 1 and comes set to house code A. Set both lamp modules to unit code 2 (for now, to avoid having to re-program the remote controls).
Plug the TM751 into an outlet. You probably won't be able to plug the TM751 AND a lamp module into the same outlet (both are "bricks") but you NEED to for testing. Use an extension cord for now.
Plug the lamp modules into both outlets for the lamps and plug the lamps into the lamp modules. Push the "2-ON" button on the remote and see if it works. Make sure the switch for the "main lamp" is ON -- if it works with the two lamp modules then put a piece of tape over that switch so it just stays ON all the time.
If it DID work then unplug the extension cord and stick the TM751 into another outlet and try it again. If it DOESN'T work now then keep moving the TM751 around until it DOES. You are trying to find an outlet that is on the same electrical "phase" as the outlets the lamps are plugged into.
If it works only one lamp at a time then you will have to get another TM751 to get to the other "phase" of the electric circuit. If you have to do this and you might possibly use the appliance module built into the transceiver then you should probably get an RR501 as one of them so it can be set to a different unit code (1 or 9). The TM751 is always unit code "1".
If you bought the SS13A just stick it beside the regular switch so people can use that. The KR19A is handy for turning on lights before you open the front door. I turn on my living room light as I pull in the driveway at night. A KR22A may have slightly better range.
Working as an industrial electrician I saw some REALLY horrid apartment wiring so you should probably stay simple (eg. just those couple of lights). But if you're willing to play with it a bit you should be able to control a few other lights as well. Plus, depending on where you plug in the TM751 you can use it to control an appliance or another lamp (ON/OFF only, no dimming). I have an appliance module controlling my coffee pot so I can turn it on when I wake up rather than using a timer to turn it on (I wake up at different times due to a screwy work schedule).
When you have it working with the default settings you should probably change the HOUSE CODE to something other than "A" just in case there is another apartment dweller using X-10 who has left theirs at the default. You have to reprogram the remotes when you do that so leave it at "A" for testing as that is the default for everything.
You should be able to get all the parts for under USD $40 on EBay.
Gerald
I don't consider replacing a switch to be "rewiring," as it's such a simple task. However, both Dave and Gerald bring up that point and they're right -- if you can't replace the switch, my suggestion won't work.
That said, I've replaced switches in every apartment I've leased. Replace them back when you leave, no one will be the wiser. I suppose you could get in trouble if they noticed it while doing maintenance.
A stick-a-switch with a transciever and two lamp modules will likely work, but I've had terrible luck with the switches. I have a few in my house, and there are transcievers within 10 feet of them for them to be reliable. The buttons sometimes stick, and they batteries occasionally die. They've been for me both a pain in the butt, but I do love having them right at my headboard for shutting down the house at night.
Thanks for all the tips, guys. It looks like it might be waaay easier if I could replace the wall switch, so I'm going to look into that. That video from SmartHome is pretty much exactly what I'm trying to do, so I'm going to try that solution.
If someone does a little rewiring that causes a fire and kills a few residents, the owners of the apartment building or complex will to be in deep legal doodoo so leases tend to prohibit such things.
It is a very simple matter to increase the range of the Stick-a-Switch.
We're off the subject now but I like the range on the KR22A "credit card remote". In the old house I put a piece of Velcro(tm) on the wall at the front door and used that to hold a KR22A. It was always right there to use as a "normal" wall switch and I could take it with me when I left the house.
In *THAT* house I couldn't test "real life" range. Old house with metal siding that caused all kinds of RF uniqueness, including instant loss of cell signal inside (5 bars on the front porch, 0 inside). I actually had my RR501 plugged into an extension cord and snaked over the top of an unused side door so that it hung OUTSIDE the house (but weather protected). That worked and allowed the remotes to work inside and out. I think the fact that it was touching an aluminum storm door frame that was, itself, touching the aluminum siding on the house caused it to use the whole house as an antenna.
In this house (all wood) The KR22A worked out to at least 75 feet outside with the RR501 plugged in inside the house. I never really tested it farther than that (end of the driveway). I did have to roll down the window in the truck for it to work that far out though.
In article , snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com writes: | I live in an apartment (so messing with the in-wall fixtures is out of | the question), and I have 2 lamps in my living room. One of the lamps | is controlled by a switch on one side of the room ... flip the switch, | and there's light. The other one, however, we have to turn on by hand | because it's across the room and there is no way to wire the two lamps | to be on the same outlet. | | Is there a solution out there which will help me set it up so that the | light switch I have now (I don't want to add another switch) can | control both lights? | | Is there a gadget that will hook up to the outlet which is currently | controlled by the wall switch (between the outlet and the lamp), and | somehow send a signal (either via IR or the power lines) to another | "gadget" that is set up between the second lamp and an always-on | outlet? This way, when I flip the switch, both lights come on. | | Anyone have any suggestions? I'm a newbie at this stuff, so any | pointers will be appreciated.
Once upon a time, before sophisticated control systems like X10 were available, there were simple carrier-based devices for remotely switching a light based simply on the presense of the carrier. One such system was the Sears Electronic Switch (transmitter part # 34-5472 and lamp module part # 34-5473). The transmitter features a choice of two carrier frequencies for the independent control of up to two devices (only one at a time with only one transmitter, of course). When the transmitter is switched on and has power it generates a carrier (either 197kHz or
150kHz). As long as the receiver lamp module hears the carrier it will be on.The Sears system could do exactly what you want by connecting the (switched on) transmitter to the switched outlet and using the receiver lamp module at the unswitched outlet. It might annoy your neighbors if they use X10 or power line intercoms/baby monitors, though. You may be able to find such a system on eBay or such. I suppose it's even vaguely possible that someone still makes a remote control that works this way.
If you are somewhat handy with electronics you could cobble something together with X10. Plug a wall wart into the switched outlet and use it to activate an X10 RF remote via some combination of relays. I'd have to look at the available X10 remotes to see which could most easily be convinced to send single bursts of ON and OFF commands with a minimum of external logic. If you wanted to get really sophisticated you could introduce a microcontroller...
Now if you could live with having the other lamp turn on but not off with the wall switch (you would have to turn it off with some other remote) you could probably just use an X10 Security Interface Module (aka burglar alarm interface) or even a mini console (the type with combined address/command buttons that do not repeat when held) with a button clamped down. If you are lucky the latter might power up in the right state.
Dan Lanciani ddl@danlan.*com
Use a capacitor to supply the transmitter after power is switched off. It will drain quickly and only recharge when power is switched on. Determining whether power is coming from the outlet or the cap is relatively simple and that determines whether to send an On or Off.
Amen. Sometimes, it's incredible useful to install a light switch the size of a matchbook with a piece of velcro. Yes, the batteries do fail but you can buy about 50 of them for $10 from Ebay so I did that and just replace them regularly. They're a lot easier to reprogram than the Hawkeyes after a battery change.
-- Bobby G.
Even cheaper, if you can live with using a remote for on and off, would be in the WalMart Christmas section; our local WalMart has keyfob-type remote controlled power strips for about $9. Not sure about the power rating, but considering how many people use floodlights for Christmas stuff, I can't imagine it's not at least 100W.
HA!
That was my first home automation setup back in the 70's when I was in junior-high. Someone used to sell a switch-plate for children's rooms that had two strings hanging from the bottom attached to a "slider" inside the plate that would physically move the wall toggle up or down (I Googled a bit and don't see one available now, it was a cheap novelty item back then).
With a few eyelets and some heavy fishing line I could operate my bedroom light from my bedside.
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