Does having multiple RJ45 jacks degrade the Internet signal a lot?

I don't have a favorite store or even brand. I buy 1000ft rolls from the local electrical supply house (Riverside Lighting) which gives me a discount in trade for some of the computah work I do for them. I also buy partially empty boxes from the local electrical contractors, also at a good price. If I want exotic CAT5e cable, I tend to buy off Craigslist and eBay. It's somewhat risky, but I've done quite well.

I don't know what you paid at Home Despot, but you can get 1000ft roll for $44 including shipping on eBay.

The catch is that I can't tell if it's super stiff, super sloppy, difficult to strip, manufacturers rejects, impossible to see color codes, or other abomination. Caveat Emptor.

Surfnet or Hilltop? Probably Hilltop because Surfnet recently went to NV2 which is only supported on Mikrotic ratios. Bridge mode is the same as disabling the router section of the UBNT M2 radio. That also means your previous description was not accurate. You do NOT have the router and NAT enabled in the radio and therefore do NOT have double NAT. You're fine and leave the radio config alone.

Note: I'm in Ben Lomond.

No. It's probably some kind of audio source problem in the computah. I have the same headache with Skype. Whenever I use a different VoIP application, but leave Skype running in the system tray, Skype gets confused and starts juggling the audio sources and outputs trying to retain ownership. In addition, every time there's a Skype update, it resets the audio settings. While I'm ranting, the last 2 revisions do not exit properly and sometimes hang my machine when I'm shutting down. In short, Skype is badly written and needs a cleanup.

My fix is to use QuickMix to save and restore the sound card settings.

I'm sure there are better and more modern programs that do the same thing, but this one works for me (on XP).

It's largely dictated by the internal arrangement of the patch antennas inside. There should be mounting holes or studs on the back of the panel antenna, which you can use to attach some manner of bracketry. It's easier to deal with the bracketry, than with the RF cables.

I can't tell about the quality of the cable from the box. What I've seen on the shelf at the local Home Despot is marginal. (Yes, I'm picky).

That will be a single run from antennna to POE adapter. I'm not thrilled with your use of indoor CAT5, but it will work for a few years (unless the critters chew up the cable). Do you have conduit in the ground?

If you want to make it somewhat UV proof, just spray it lightly with some kind of clear acrylic spray or dip such as Krylon. Note I said lightly as too much will create a cracking mess when you bend the cable.

That might be a double run if you want wired ethernet in the garage.

That will probably be a single run, with an ethernet switch in the game room.

Total is 175ft. However, I think you're underestimating the "extra" cable needed at each end for service loops and just plain getting out of the way of things. Add another 25ft. So, you need 200ft. However, since you have too much wire, running two cables where only one is needed is quite easy at this point.

I like to drill two adjacent small holes. It's easier and doesn't weaken anything. I can also scribble on the 2x4 base plate something about where the wire is going, instead of dealing with wire tags and labels.

Incidentally, whatever you use to attach the cable to the woodwork, make sure it doesn't crush or crimp the cable. There are overpriced fasteners for doing this, but I just use rounded staples, being very careful not to harpoon the cable.

Reply to
Jeff Liebermann
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Nice, but overkill for what you're doing. It's really made for home theater installers that need to test a number of cables simultaneously.

I suggest you return it.

I bought two of these:

for $7 ea.

If you want something immediately, SCZ Electronics has something for about $20 or you can try to find me and borrow mine.

Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Don't know Fry's but the stuff is reasonably priced and in my experience so far it has worked well - without failures.

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I'm still seesawing on putting the POE in the garage where the line comes into the house ... or in the office.

But, that's not really a big design decision because I most here said breaks in the line aren't a signal degradation issue (per se).

The 'big' (to me) design decision was how to make the "Y"!

I was confused how one signal input could be then wired to give both the office and the game room power.

Now I realize it's a bunch of Y's together - in a star network - with the broadband router's LAN ports as the center of the hub!

What was initially incomprehensible to me was the fact that the router's LAN ports were NOT part of the wired system.

I didn't comprehend the existence of 'dead' wires in the house (i.e., one 'live' wire from the antenna, and then all the rest being 'dead' until powered by the router's LAN ports).

That's the fundamental concept I didn't realize when I first asked!

Thanks to all for the education! Now it's time to finish drilling holes and buying something to staple the wires in place properly.

Reply to
Chuck Banshee

Good enough, except that it doesn't show the "extra" cable runs.

Incidentally, I prefer to use Visio for wiring diagrams. Something like this:

It's so that he has access to both the router and the radio from the internet side.

Ground the mast to a nearby ground rod pounded into the ground. If your mast is hit by lightning, the water in the concrete will explode. Even minor hits will weaken the concrete. However, you live in an area with few lightning storms, so this can probably be deferred or ignored.

Sigh... buried in conduit or use direct burial CAT5 cable.

However, if you're going to add a TV antenna (and rotator) to the mix, you should probably consider using conduit.

Not a coil, but enough to move things around in case there are future changes.

Double run from garage to office. RJ45 jack in a "muffin" box in garage.

Double run from office to game room.

Very nice and better than most. You have most of the numbers needed. The only thing I can think that's missing is the wall thickness, which might be an issue due to the double wall.

Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Out here in Silicon Valley, Frys is the department store mecca of electronics (absolutely nothing like any other you've ever seen in your life).

For the longest time, they didn't even have a decent web site in their name

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My first time there twenty years ago was like a first visit to Santa's north pole workshop. Having come from NY, I was that awed by the difference of Silicon Valley!

There was an entire supermarket-sized aisle for memory chips, another for motherboards, another entire aisle for disk drives, another aisle just for graphics chips, etc.

In addition, there now are aisles filled with refrigerators, microwaves, tv's cameras, wireless routers, etc.

Yet, still more aisles are crammed with junk food like soda, chips, and candies.

More aisles are for software; there's an entire section for computers (of course); and there is a telephone aisle, a GPS aisle, test leads, etc.

One corner of the store is dedicated to repairs; another corner to the complete audio experience; yet another for a sit-down eatery.

Above each aisle, just like in a typical supermarket, are signs with the list of things in that aisle, "memories, circuit boards, batteries, etc.".

To top it all off, there are 'themes' for each stores. Some are done up in Egyptian themes with stone pillars and Sphinx statues scattered about (I particularly remember all the portable computers on a series of banquet-sized glass tables each held up by sable lionesses on every end.)

Even the hugely lengthy checkout lines proceed at a quick pace, what with about 40 numbered cash registers, each with a green light indicating availability as the queue is hurried onward by a gatekeeper at the head of the line.

In short, Frys is the mecca for electronics out here!

About only 'bad' parts about Frys are their dismal return policies and the overabundance of black & white clothed hurried "salespeople" who often know less than you do about what you're trying to buy. It's not, for example, at all like Home Depot where the guy selling plumbing knows more about it than the typical homeowner.

So, while Frys has almost everything you could want in terms of electronics, you're almost wholly on your own wandering this mecca of merchandise!

Check it out when you visit Silicon Valley (it's way more interesting than the Winchester (rifle) Mystery House! :)

Reply to
Chuck Banshee

It's interesting that the broadband router's LAN ports are actually the CENTER of this 'wired' star network!

I find that ironic.

The center of the star network doesn't really exist as "part of" the built in section of the network. It's OUTSIDE the network (so to speak).

It's almost as if we are building a wired network in a house that is then configured later by the broadband router's LAN ports acting as "jumpers".

I do understand! :)

It's just not what I originally thought a 'wired network' would look like!

Now I know the router's LAN port is the "center" of the "wired network" (the router's LAN ports are what livens up the "dead" wires!).

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Reply to
Chuck Banshee

Oh no! Just when it was getting better, more confusion. A signal input is NOT providing power. You have a power supply that powers the electronics outside at the antenna via one cable. The other wired connections, eg to the game room, are ethernet only, no power.

They are part of the wired system.

Of course anything not connected is dead. But if it is connected to the router LAN port, it has signals on it, not power. Capiche?

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One of the legal thing I do for money is networking and I often have to test and certify the cabling then upload/Email the results to the company I'm doing the work for. I use a Byte Brothers RWC1000K Real World Certifier and it's the best value on the market for network test equipment. I also use some very inexpensive gear for quick tests. ^_^

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Reply to
The Daring Dufas

I don't know if it fits your plans, but I like to store that extra loop of cable inside the wall so it's out of sight until/unless it's needed. Maybe that's what you meant.

Reply to
Char Jackson

I'm guessing that large homes need a second breaker box (or a third, etc.) because of the sheer number of breakers required to properly cover the home. I don't think it's about saving wire.

Reply to
Char Jackson

Perhaps (only) true of that particular class.

Reply to
Char Jackson

From your description, they're simply placing the LAN IP in the DMZ, to use common Linksys parlance. No surprise, and no big deal. It's good to see that they do that by default, rather than making the customer jump through port forwarding hoops.

Long before you have a problem with forwarding ports to multiple computers, you have a much bigger problem: there's only one IP address available on the LAN side of the modem, right? So multiple computers don't work because only one of them can acquire an IP address, not because of any port forwarding limitations. As you said, attaching a router as the first device allows multiple computers to then be attached, and port forwarding is then managed within that router. The limitation remains that a given port can only be forwarded to one computer at a time, of course, but at least it's no longer all or nothing.

I wasn't able to parse that paragraph. How is traffic finding its way to the WAN side of the modem? How did it get there? It didn't come from the Internet, since it's not routable, and it didn't come from the direction of the LAN, since there's a device (the router) in that direction that has that address, so where did it come from, the ISP?

Further, if you plug into a web browser and you have a device on your LAN with that address, you'll access that device, (even if that device is a router). If the router is forwarding traffic addressed to itself to its WAN interface, well, it's broken. Replace the router.

Ok, this part relates to a discussion we had recently. Thanks.

Thanks for the warning, but it didn't turn out to be very messy at all. I appreciate the details.

Reply to
Char Jackson

If you put the POE adapter in the garage, you can have wired Ethernet in the garage without running a second cable, although it would require a switch to do so.

So the choices for wired Ethernet in the garage are:

  1. POE adapter & switch in garage, single cable to the office/router
  2. POE adapter anywhere, two cables between garage and office

Since you have a bunch of cable, the choice is probably #2...

Reply to
Char Jackson

Nope. Look again. The DMZ is usually defined by the router and is only concerned with incoming traffic, not outgoing. In this case, the redirection is happening in the DSL modem, not the router. The router duitifully passes traffic destined to the modem out the WAN port. The DSL modem traps outgoing traffic destined to its management IP address, and redirects it to the internal web server, and not out to the internet. That's quite different from the (misnamed) DMZ feature found in many routers. What makes it a big deal is that it probably breaks a few RFC's, is totally undocumented, and a rather good idea.

More later.... I'm late for a paying appointment.

Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Yes, I know, thanks, but my question was relating to adding a router to an existing modem/router combo unit.

Reply to
Char Jackson

Also the ampacity of the main(s). This is particularly true of large homes where central air conditioning or heat pumps are the norm.

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Double your resistance and voltage drop numbers, since you have two 100' lengths of wire.

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Ok, I looked again, and Google says the Speedstream 4200 is a modem/router combo, so I respectfully disagree with your assessment that the modem is somehow placing its LAN-connected device in the misnamed DMZ. Instead, it's the router portion of the 4200 that's doing that. That makes sense, though, since routers routinely do that while modems do not.

Yes, and in this case we're concerned with incoming traffic.


You've mixed a few types of apples with some oranges. I can tell you were in a hurry. I hope you'll revisit this when you get a chance.

Reply to
Char Jackson

4100 data sheet:

4100 and 4200 manual:

The 4200 has both USB and ethernet ports, while the 4100 has only the ethernet port.

I'm not sure what you found with Google, but unless they consider the single IP address NAT in the 4100/4200 to be a router of some sorts, I would consider it to be just a modem. (Actually a DSL bridge but that's hair splitting).

I humbly beg to differ. When I set the 4100/4200 into bridge mode, thus disabling the NAT, router, or whatever, it still redirects the management port to the internal web server. Therefore, it's not the NAT, router, or whatever that's doing the redirection, it's the DSL modem/bridge itself.

Note that some mutations of the 4100/4200 seem to screwup doing the redirection. I have a small pile of about 10 4100 DSL modems. Some work, others don't. Actually of the one's that don't work, most of them will recognize the traffic, redirect it to something that tries to deliver a web page, and then hang partly through painting the page. It seems to vary randomly with settings and version. My guess(tm) is that it's an unfinished feature. The redirection works just fine in later models, such as the Motorola 2210-02 DSL modem and every current cable modem that I've tested.

Nope. Outgoing. I'm talking about pointing the users web browser, connected through any router on a LAN port, and getting to the management interface on the DSL modem. It's kinda handy. From the internet (incoming side), I can fire up remote control software such as Teamviewer, connect to the users desktop computah, fire up a web browser, and point it to the DSL or cable modem interface in order to extract signal level and error rate data.

Yep. Try it and see for thyself. However, don't use a 4100/4200. Use a cable modem or later DSL modem.

I'm always in a rush. I've got 4 machines running Windoze updates that are taking forever. Were it not for the slow MS updates, I would never have time to post to usenet.

They paid...

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