List of sensors to get

I am creating an list of sensors to by to protect the house.

  1. What is a point of affixing window sensors other then to remind me that windows is open before I arm the system? Why would thief open a closed windows? It would be much simpler to break the glass and walk/ crawl in w/out moving a frame. Specially if thief sees security sticker on the window, he/she would know NOT to move the frame

  1. Keeing 1 in mind, should I just get motion sensor for each area? Of course just having motion sensor would not be much use in the Stay mode, since I won't be able to walk anywhere in the house

  2. And if I do have motion sensor, then do I even need a glass breaking sensor?

What is the best practice to properly protect the house?

I am installing system myself, but I had "consultant" from large security monitoring company come out. While nice, she was not really helpful other then stating get it all: glass breaking, motion, window contacts.

Thanks

Reply to
Leon
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You need window decals front & back. A large Dog water dish at the front door,

Reply to
Rich

Good question. The answer is that there are a certain number of thieves who like to open a window and climb in. Clients sometimes ask what percentage of break-ins happen that way. One fellow I know used to answer, "When it's happening 100%. The rest of the time it's

0%." :^)

If you're doing your own installation and the job is hard-wired, the cost of window sensors is minimal but you'll spend more time doing the job.

I like to bug the windows and back that up with a few glass break detectors, especially near sliding or French doors. I like to use motion detectors sparingly as a second line of defense.

The two serve different purposes. Glass breaks can remain on whereas in most homes motion detection is turned off at night.

There are probably as many different ideas about what is "best" as their are technicians. I've explained my preferred approach. For a DIYer the cost of full perimeter protection isn't very different from some of the simpler methods. It does require more time to install but for many folks that's not an obstacle.

If you were paying a professional to install the system for you the cost of full perimeter protection could be exhorbitant. Labor is often more costly to the installing company than the materials.

If the system is to be wireless, the cost component is inverted. Labor is a small portion of the job and materials get much more expensive.

If she believes that is the appropriate choice, then she was being helpful. If it's just for a bigger commission, that's another story. With smaller alarm companies the salesman is often the owner or at least someone with technical skills. Some of the nationals send out people with "sales skill" but little or no technical knowledge. You might want to talk to a few smaller, local firms before making a final decision.

If you decide to DIY, please give my website a browse. I have a broad selection of professional gear at competitive prices.

Reply to
Robert L Bass

hope the sob gets cut!

yes

sounds like she gave you real good advise.

Reply to
AlarmCoJoe

Leon wrote:

Hi new to this, I'm a security/fire installation/service technician, Install your system to ensure that all entry points, either via locked or unlocked doors/windows are covered, BGD(break glass detectors) is really preferential for a typical home, if you was installing the system in a business premises then that may be different, it's also down to insurance, the police and NACOSS who regulate the security industry, work on the basis "what is valuable" "where intruders will go IF they get into your premises" eg. they're not going to break in the kitchen, make a cup of tea then go back out again are they!! bear in mind also that the earlier the system goes into alarm that is also a good deterent, VIPER sensors on the window's etc. vibration sensors in other words, detects vibration of doors/windows etc. alarm goes off, intruders flee without even gaining entry!!! Also go for an autodialler, VOCALLISER or SD1+ unit that connects to your phone line, then if your system goes into alarm it will dial out on preprogrammed tel no's mobile or landline, around £60 - £85 for a decent unit, but worth it. THINK about security cameras, Mounted at a proper height that is not easily reachable, a recording unit that is stored securely away in a lockable bomb- proof cabinet that is fixed to the wall/floor with the proper fixings, a lot of people get the cabinets, but don't secure them!!!, DAY/NIGHT vision cameras with a very low close to/or at 0 lux level with infrared led's min 20 led's approx 10 - mtr night view range. if they get in to your now fully secured premises, at least you'll be able to see who it was, and oh yes window contact sensors are also a good deterent too!! as well as being practical, lot's of people don't lock windows with window locks, a circular scriber in a petractor shape around the lock area of the window, glass pops out, no noise, lift/move window lever, YOU'RE IN!!! DON'T omit the upstairs either!! just as many break in's happen upstairs!!

total estimation for a good set up in £££££ is around £1000 to £1500 for alarm and keypad with 4 pir's 2 door contacts, bell box(sasu), and autodialler, plus 2 day/night cameras, DVR unit, and bombproof Case.

any less than that, forget it.

B and Q is cheap and chearful, but pay out more at the beginning, when B and Q's unit has failed, your what you thought was dear at the time unit/s will be going strong!!

Happy Alarming!!!

and ps. DON'T forget the bleeding obvious, what you think about poss break in area's etc around your home other people think too, even burglars!! also don't overkill it, i've seen a 4 bed detached with a pir/dt in each room, contacts on the windows/doors, bgd above the windows and glass doors, vipers on the doors and windows, 3 live bell boxes, external setting fob readers with maglocks on all the internal and external doors, 8 cameras, with 2 dvr units one backing the other up, 4 smoke cloak units, emits smoke upon activation, total alarm/camera system cost from a local ltd company, £47,752, OUCH, lot of money, especially when they get broken into, no pictures from any camera as they forgot to restart the dvr's after stopping them, and they went down the shop to get some fags, only 8 mins there and back, dope, didn't put their alarm on!!!

Reply to
moosecake

Yah, try it sometime..would you rather break a window, risking noise and getting sliced up, or jimmy a door or window opened? Lemme tell you the answer...it's easier to open a door or window than it is to break it.

| | 2. Keeing 1 in mind, should I just get motion sensor for each area? Of | course just having motion sensor would not be much use in the Stay | mode, since I won't be able to walk anywhere in the house

Yep...you've solved that one. PIRs are second line of defense.

| | 3. And if I do have motion sensor, then do I even need a glass | breaking sensor?

Motions cover a larger area than glassbreaks...unless you cover 100% of the home with glassbreaks. I frequently do, and still install at least one motion.

| | | What is the best practice to properly protect the house?

Pretend you're a burglar

| | I am installing system myself, but I had "consultant" from large | security monitoring company come out. While nice, she was not really | helpful other then stating get it all: glass breaking, motion, window | contacts.

Get it all, especially since you're doing it yourself. And if you've never done it before save a few bucks to hire someone to advise you as you go along.

| | Thanks |

Reply to
Crash Gordon

Moosecake, Just thought you'd like to know that this Newsgroup consists of North American, alarm installers. Although a few are familiar with the products used in GB, for the most part, much of the procedures and equipment that you use in GB are not used here.

Reply to
Jim

So is the syntax...BGD? :-)

| > Hi new to this, I'm a security/fire installation/service technician, Install | > your system to ensure that all entry points, either via locked or unlocked | > doors/windows are covered, BGD(break glass detectors) is really preferential | > for a typical home, if you was installing the system in a business premises | > then that may be different, it's also down to insurance, the police and | > NACOSS who regulate the security industry, work on the basis "what is | > valuable" "where intruders will go IF they get into your premises" eg. | > they're not going to break in the kitchen, make a cup of tea then go back out | > again are they!! | | | | Moosecake, | Just thought you'd like to know that this Newsgroup consists of North | American, alarm installers. Although a few are familiar with the | products used in GB, for the most part, much of the procedures and | equipment that you use in GB are not used here. | |

Reply to
Crash Gordon

formatting link

Reply to
Frank Olson

dats funny

Reply to
Crash Gordon

How to Install an "Inexpensive Home Security System":

  1. Go to a second-hand store and buy a pair of men's used size 14-16 work boots.

  1. Place them on your front porch, along with several empty beer cans, a copy of Guns & Ammo magazine and several NRA magazines.

  2. Put a few giant dog dishes next to the boots and magazine.

  1. Leave a note on your door that reads:

"Hey Bubba, Big Jim, Duke and Slim, I went to the gun sh>> I am creating an list of sensors to by to protect the house.

Reply to
Allan Waghalter

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