The units go from about $600-$1100 depending on the brand, bells/whistles and # gallons your pool has. Installation is a snap.
It is more than just the direct cost savings though. (The least expensive systems to operate use liquid chlorine.)
The salt system is much friendlier to your eyes, bathing suits, etc. than tablets.
Also, the salt system is much better for a plaster/3m/pebbletech surface. Resurfacing isn't cheap.
Mitch
Stu Alden wrote:
The cost of propane pains me, so for quickest heating, I circulate the water completely within the spa when I'm in "spa mode." Accordingly, I needed to shut off the chlorinator.
Another approach would have been to put chlorinator output in the pool return line only, not the spa return line. But my gut told me that the additional chlorination directly to the spa (when in regular "pool mode") keeps the spa a bit cleaner.
Aaaah, you're right. I'm accustomed to S Florida where the pool gets way too hot just using solar panels (I have eight of them) unless you regulate it.
While we're on the subject, have you consid3red switching to solar heat? Depending on where you live and how hot you like your pool, you might save a bundle, not to mention reduce the profitability of the Bush / Saudi machine. :^)
My parents' spa works that way, too. It heats up pretty quickly. My "Jacuzzi" is really just a hot water jet with a venturi to draw in air from a T-tap in the garden. It works OK but it's only about 5-10ºF hotter than the pool water.
For service, cleaning, etc., you will always want to throw the breaker. You don't want the pump to start unexpectedly while you're working on it.
Additional local control functionality could (should?) include over-ride switches to force the system on/off and to force the valves open/closed as needed. The ideal setup would provide On / Off / Auto positions for the pump and Open / Closed / Auto positions for automated valves. 3-Position, double pole switches are readily available for the purpose. Obviously, you'll either want weatherproof switches or a weatherproof cover for the switch plate.
As I get closer to doing this, a thought has occured to me. What do you do about local control? Or how do you turn the pump (valves, etc) on/off manually while at the pump, for servicing or cleaning? I figured I would just add some SPDT-cent-off switches before the low voltage relays to select between "auto / off / on". I know you could throw the breaker to shut off the pump, but I bet that the owner or a tech will want to be able to manually force it on at times also.
On my "Goldline" Valve actuators, there is a manual override. You just push a toggle switch, loosen a locking knob, push the knob down and turn to desired position.
Mitch
Wayne wrote:
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