New house, need to wire for a network

We are moving into a new (to us ) house. Its a single story on a slab, unlike our prior one with a basement. I want a home network in this one like we had, a mix of wireless and hard wired. Was thinking about putting a recessed structured wiring panel in the finished garage as a retrofit. However, If I do that where do I put the wireless router? Surely the box will shield the signal. Can you get one with a remote antenna? Anyone have any ideas?

TIA

Reply to
New Homeowner
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Interesting idea, but wireless is required for the laptops and PDA. I assume it wrecks X-10 but UPB would still work?

Reply to
New Homeowner

Reply to
Dave Houston

It doesn't bother X-10. It uses ~3-28MHz so it's far above the 120kHz used by X-10.

There are 802.11B to Powerline Access Points. Look at the Asoka USA product line.

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I'd take a hard look before spend>Interesting idea, but wireless is required for the laptops and PDA. I

Reply to
Dave Houston

Reply to
Dave Houston

What about running your CAT5 through the attic??

Reply to
Frank Olson

The antennae on all of my Linksys routers use standard screw-on "N" type connectors. You can make a pair of extension cables for the antennae using either RG-213 or LMR-400 cable and pair of connectors. A good electronics supply shop (not RatShak) should be able to provide everything. In case you don't have a local source, there is (was?) a Zenith shop on New Park Ave in West Hartford, CT where I used to find just about every kind of connector or specialty item. I don't recall the name but perhaps with a little searching you can locate them.

Reply to
Robert L Bass

I had to run some in my last house from the 2nd floor. I pulled the baseboards off, cut a hole in the wall, pushed the cat 5 up the wall and through a box that I mounted in the wall. There was some work in taking the baseboards off without them cracking and splitting.

Attic is a good idea too, might be a little warm up there this time of year. I have to chase some wire to my attic, I am waiting for winter!!!

Reply to
EM

Do it early in the morning. Before the sun has a chance to heat it up. :-))

Reply to
Frank Olson

Here's a method of removing baseboards without damage. It works well on relatively new baseboards. Older ones can sometimes be much harder to work with.

At the middle of the board insert a stiff 4" taping knife between the top of the board and the drywall. Pry the board no more than

1/4" to 1/2" from the wall. Insert a screwdriver or, if available, a thin wood shim to keep the wood from springing back to the wall. Move the knife over a few inches and repeat. Now move the knife to the other side of the starting point and do the same. Repeat until the entire board is away from the wall 1/4" or so. Go back to the center and start over, moving the board off a little at a time.

This will prevent splitting and won't damage the drywall. If the board is painted to the wall, gently tap the knife in place with a hammer to break the paint loose.

Once the board is off the wall, pull the nails through the board from the pointed end with a needle nose pliers. Do NOT hammer them out or you will almost certainly splinter the surface. Use new brads to reinstall the board. Tap them just below the surface with a "nail set" and fill the depressions with wood putty. There won't be any evidence that the board was ever removed.

If you do this on moldings at the top of the wall, close any gap along the ceiling with white silicone sealant. It'll look better than before you started.

Regards, Robert L Bass

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Reply to
Robert L Bass

Make sure you're using a either a new one or one with a nice and sharp edge. Don't just use some dull old putty knife. No sense in having 4" gouges along the paint line. Granted, a bit o'caulk along the edge when you reattach works wonders for hiding mistakes.

It's sometimes handy to use a nail puller or old pair of tile nippers for this. Not to cut the nail (although you could) but to bite into the nail and then rock it like the claw part of a hammer to pull the nail through the wood.

Reply to
wkearney99

Good point, Bill.

That will work. I usually just grab the nail close to the wood with the side of a pair of needle nose pliers. Give the pliers a half turn and the nail pulls right through.

Regards, Robert L Bass

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Reply to
Robert L Bass

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