Insteon with 400amp service (2 panels)

Jan 16, 2006 27 Replies

I don't have any experience working in the panel, so I'm limiting my work in there to opening the door and staring in frustration. :)

I couldn't identify any distinguishing marks that indicate model number. All I could find is that it is Cutler Hammer. I know that narrows it down immensely! :(

I think it's time to call the builder, but I probably won't hear from him until tomorrow. It's a shame since I have all the free time today!

Thanks for the tips.

- Le>on 1/16/2006 2:11 PM Someone carved the following into a picnic table:

I don't know enough to try this, but my brother-in-law has some experience that might help. It's worth a shot.

Thanks.

- Le>If you have an AC voltmeter, hot-to-hot (small) will measure 120V when

Okay. Is everyone (but me) ready for a good laugh? I decided to call Smarthome again, but this time I wouldn't mention the 400 amp service. The rep quickly zeroed in on the fact that the Signalinc RFs were from the old batch that had not gotten the addresses set. I'm returning them for new ones.

It's good to know I'm not crazy...although I was getting there. This also proves out what I've heard about Smarthome support.

Thanks again for all of your help. I'll let you know how it all works out.

Now, I'm going to have a good cry. :)

- Le>I just got my Insteon starter kit and discovered that I cannot get the

In fairness to SmartHome they've probably been adding a lot of support people lately.

Reach>Okay. Is everyone (but me) ready for a good laugh? I decided to call

It would have been an even better tip if I'd been accurate. Hot-to-hot on the same phase will measure 0V and on opposite phases 240V.

| If you have an AC voltmeter, hot-to-hot (small) will measure 120V when | they're on the same phase and 240V when they are on opposite phases.

Actually, hot-to-hot will measure 0V when they are on the same "phase." This is convenient since it means that you don't even need a voltmeter to distinguish the two cases. A neon tester or even two 120V lamps in series will work.

Dan Lanciani ddl@danlan.*com

You can also place a voltmeter across the wire holding screws on adjacent breakers and read the voltage. In about one minute you'll know the precise layout of your panel. Draw a simple schematic on a 3x5 card and stick it to the door below the label.

BTW, the label on the inside of the panel door usually has phase markings on. Mine does.

Glad to hear you got the defective units sorted out. As background, Cutler-Hammer load centers use the alternating leg arrangement as described in an earlier post. Specifically:

AA BB AA BB etc

When you get the new RF repeaters plug one in and press and hold the side button for more than 10 seconds. When you let go the light should be blinking. Take the other one and try other outlets till it blinks quickly (I had to try more than 5). DO NOT press the button on the one you just plugged in. Leave it alone and go back tot he first one and press the button once. Both will stop flashing. As for needing more on legs from the other panel, you may or may not - you can'r assume anything. One determining factor is where the panels are fed from. Are both fed from a common meter? If so, you probably will not need extra repeaters. If they are fed from different meters but the transformer is close by you may not need more. However, if the transformer is far away or in the unusual event that your home is fed from different transformers you will most likely need more.

From:Someone snipped-for-privacy@myinbox.com

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required