Howto: X10 lights on conduit for barn

I wanted to use x10 to independently control four 300W Halogen lights on the ceiling of my recently-built barn. I am using gray 3/4" PVC conduit and boxes with wires pulled inside for all wiring in the barn which is unheated thru Vermont winters. I wanted to mount X10 modules right inside each box that the lights mounted on. I looked at using appliance modules, but I would have to make 3 wired connections to the plugs, and find a way to glue or attach the module so that the settings could be changed from outside.

Luckily I found that an X10 SuperSocket module slides nicely right inside the Gray PVC Carlin boxes I am using from Home Depot. Drill two holes, and add a load connection on a plug blade, and you're ready to install. Now I can turn any of the 4 lights on and off from a PalmPad or PowerHome.

How It Worked is shown at

formatting link
This could also be used with a blank cover, to make a conduit-inline X10 switch.

Any comments, suggestions, pointers to similar stuff appreciated!

Regards, Terry King ...On The Mediterranean in Carthage (Back ...In The Woods In Vermont for the Summer)

Reply to
terry
Loading thread data ...

Terry,

Another way to use the module is to open it up and add a new switched lead. There already is a hole in the case adjacent to the power lug, so soldering the new lead is easy.

Then mount the module in its own box and extend the new switched lead and neutral to your light. As the face of the module is exposed, you can change codes easily.

I have perhaps 10 modified modules used to control exterior spotlights, low voltage lights, and fluorescent lights with no problems.

DLC

snipped-for-privacy@terryk> I wanted to use x10 to independently control four 300W Halogen lights

Reply to
DLC

Thanks, DLC... I have one more SuperSocket and I'll open it up. That WOULD be easier (to install, at least) for an inline switch.

Reply to
terry

Or you could just use an X10 Fixture Module designed for the specific purpose.

formatting link

Reply to
BruceR

The Fixture Module is $32 compared to $9 or $10 for a SuperSocket... But in a professional installation the parts cost may not be important.

This is a DIY kind of thing, for me... I am not a professional anything :-)

Reply to
terry

But Terry, the 227 Supersocket is perhaps the most failure prone piece of equipment X10 ever made. Search Google for reports of failures. Unless you like working on tall, shaky ladders, at least get appliance modules and a heavy duty extension cord for each. Cut the extension cords in half and each module now has wires that can be pigtailed into a circuit.

As for wanting to change house codes, that shouldn't come up very often, should it? Number them intelligently to start with and that should be the end of it. Appliance modules might not fit in a box, though. I'd still be inclined to use the inline modules just so that if there's ever a fire, an inspection report doesn't put you on the "don't insure this guy or house list."

-- Bobby G.

Reply to
Robert Green

Trust me on this, over time you will spend more than $32 on the super socket. Those have a terrible reputation for failing within about a year - particularly when used outside. They have a cheap, brittle plastic part inside that breaks easily and X10 refuses to improve it. The problem with those units has been discussed here and elsewhere many times over many years. It's not a matter of IF but WHEN it will break. The Fixture Module does not have this problem - I've had several installed in outdoor boxes for over 12 years with no problem. There is, however, a cheaper solution that's still better than the SuperSocket; you can modify a standard appliance module to do the same thing and it will last many years. The Fixture Module is really just a modified Appliance Module anyway. The Leviton FM uses the old brown App Mod housing as it's more compact than the "newer" AM housings. I still have Appliance Modules from 1984 that I only recently removed from service as part of my Insteon conversion.

Reply to
BruceR

BruceR wrote: ...

OK, I guess I better prepare a couple Appliance modules to stuff into those conduit boxes, WHEN...

Reply to
terry

Terry save yourself a lot of trouble and get the correct tools for the job. Take a look at this:

formatting link

Don't even think of getting the dimmable version as it's rated for

300W and your load is 300W. As a general rule I don't exceed 80% of the rating for X10 devices. I'm not sure if other also follow this rule.
Reply to
Neil Cherry

Cabling-Design.com Forums website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.