what is the best wire for a perimeter alarm

thanks a load.... Sort of what I expected ....

Ah, yer kidding.....right? js

You expected someone was going to "teach" you how to wire your house?? Phone Bob Bass. He'll take you through the whole thing in about two hours.

Frank,

What's up, you're referring to Bass as Bob???? So you guys hanging together now, are there children in the future :-))

Russ

????????????????????? So the burglar has to open all the doors and windows on a zone to generate an alarm... Interesting false alarm reduction tactic :-))

We're buds.

Please don't name any of the kids after me......... LOL :-))

Bob,

There are several types of wire you may use for a burglar alarm system. For magnetic door and window sensors 22-gauge, 2-conductor is sufficient in most residences. Motion detectors, glass break sensors and the like require 4 conductors -- 2 for power and 2 for the "zone" (sensing circuit). Most keypads use the same ordinary (unshielded, not twisted pair) cable as motion detectors. A few systems such as the ELK-M1G use CAT5 cable for the keypads. The M1G is a home automation / alarm system, probably more than what you're looking for.

The transformer which supplies low voltage AC to power the panel is usually wired using 2-conductor, 18-gauge wire. Siren speakers can be wired using the same type of cable.

If you include fire alarm sensors (smoke detectors, heat detectors, etc.) you will need 18-gauge, "power limited" fire alarm cable for those. One exception is Rhode Island where 16-gauge is the minimum. Smoke detectors are available in 2-wire and 4-wire models now. If you need 10 or less smokes, select 2-wire types since the sensors and the cable are less expensive and performance is identical.

Regarding the magnetic contacts, consider using 4-conductor wire even though they only need 2. The difference in cost is minimal and you'll have an extra pair available in case a staple goes awry during the installation.

There has been a lot of discussion regarding stranded vs. solid core cable for burglar alarm wiring. Some folks insist that stranded is the only way to go. Others are just as insistent that solid core wire is better. The reality is that either cable will work the same once installed. Use whichever you feel more comfortable working with. Whichever you choose, make certain it's rated for in-wall use. Virtually all cable sold for the purpose at most online stores, including mine, catering to DIYers will be UL listed and rated for the purpose.

And yet you still asked

Use UL listed for burg cable

22 gauge 2 conductor stranded jacketed for contacts. 22-4 for motion detectors 18-2 for transformer Use UL listed for fire cable 18-4 for smokes 18-4 siren 18-4 keypads The above assumes you are using a standard loop voltage, not any sort of loop polling device. For zone expanders and keypads you should use the wire specified by the respective manufacturer.

Try home running each zone. Although you can use normally open switches in parallel, that is not typical. Use normally closed switches and home run one wire per device where possible and series the devices where it is not. If not you'll be the only one likely to ever be able to service it. That may be the case no matter what.

Cat...for alarm? 2 zones? in parallel....okie dokie

Do yourself a big learning experience favor and don't do it yourself.

I'm in Phoenix and I'm available as a paid consultant or instructor or will actually do the job correctly for you (for a fee).

Try using Romex. It's readily available, and the heavier wire reduces the chances of other contractors breaking a wire. Be sure to order some of those 1" diameter flush mount contacts, and an auger bit to install them with.

If you should consider buying equipment on line, before you buy from this one, be sure you check out his horrendous BBB record here:

He's also a convicted felon who's ironically in the security business.

Better to deal with someone locally. And it's best to find a company by referral from someone who you know.

"Brill". Good name for a Poodle.

I have used BX for security systems up in Vegas. Their codes are a pain in the ass and it's actually easier to use BX then running conduit.

You know using that gauge wire is a perfect way to stop service calls from rodent chews. It could be even better if you used it on an old direct wire system from say Potter. 90VDC could almost weld their little teeth I bet.

If you want the *best* wire... In addition to what others said, note that all that wiring running in the walls/attic of a house acts as a big "antenna".

The wiring can get voltage running in it induced by nearby radio transmitters, etc. and lightning strikes - causing false alarms sometimes.

If you use "shielded" wire and ground one end of the shield (at the main box), this will keep the outside electrical interference out of the wiring.

Shielded wire is like TV coax wire which has a metal wrap inside the jacket. But you can get regular 2, 4, [or whatever] conductor shielded wire. It is expensive though.

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