Wireless Door Lock Sensor

For standard door locks you'd probably have to build something yourself using microswitches where the bolt goes into the door jam...tedious but it can be done. Then you could bury a wireless transmitter in the wall.

It's not a standard thing. I've only done a few like this, most people don't want to pay..and if you don't do it correctly it can be really prone to false alarms.

Phone line cut protection should be part of any sales spiel...it's important to bring it up even if the potential buyer refuses.

You'd be looking at about $400 a door.

Yes, however it would be more economical to wire these such devices.

Tom it is important to most, just not what most consider affordable.

What is

What is the point of owning a home if you're not intelligent enough to make sure they are?

You could have purchased an alarm that could have controlled 4 door locks, with readers at each door (For unlocking and disarming), and communicated over a Grade "AA" (Line Security) broadband connection...but you didn't. You went for the cheapest solution, and now you're realizing your limitations...welcome to the mainstream. Buy American.

The problem with "door lock sensors" would be; the locks themselves, the doors, the jambs, and maintenance/replacement of all of these.

Wood doors will grow or shrink with humidity changes. So if you have a switch in the jamb which detects that a dead bolt is thrown, you may have trouble adjusting it if the door is growing and shrinking with humidity changes.

Then hinges will come lose and the alignment of the door may change.

Switches located in the jamb would need maintenance and adjustment. Say a new door and deadbolt was installed with a longer "throw". You would need to be able adjust the switch back for the longer throw. So access covers to the switches would be needed as well as a method of adjusting the switch.

Some safe/vault doors have such sensors. But you have an all metal door and jamb along with a precision locking system.

Install switch in locksets only? Most residential locksets are far from being precision devices. Imagine some sort of switch in a cheap residential regular door knob - the kind where there is so much play, you can wobble the whole thing every which way.

I would think the best solution would be a precision lockset specifically designed for this. The deadbolt would probably be easy. But the door knob lock would need to be a positive "locked" "not locked" design without any play or in-between allowed.

Also if it is a wired device, the wire to the door is prone to wearing out and needing replacement. (As is with businesses with gless break sensors on their door windows.)

Man, I did a custom home a few years back with motorized bolts with locked status...what a freeking pain. The door itself had to be drilled for the lock wiring which then connected to special hinges with carried voltage etc. Needless to say it was a very very expensive install. I was really glad I didn't havet to install the lockset and the door guys somehow drilled the longitudinal hole for they're wires which made it easy for us. The cost with the custom door, door frame, hardware, lockset, our prox readers had to have come close to 10K per door.

I know most homeowners are not in the above bracket...indeed some wouldn't even pay 100 bucks per door.

| > Wood doors will grow or shrink with humidity changes. So if you have a | > switch in the jamb which detects that a dead bolt is thrown, you may have | > trouble adjusting it if the door is growing and shrinking with humidity | > changes. | >

| > Then hinges will come lose and the alignment of the door may change. | >

| > Switches located in the jamb would need maintenance and adjustment. Say a | > new door and deadbolt was installed with a longer "throw". You would need | to | > be able adjust the switch back for the longer throw. So access covers to | the | > switches would be needed as well as a method of adjusting the switch. | >

| > Some safe/vault doors have such sensors. But you have an all metal door | and | > jamb along with a precision locking system. | >

| > Install switch in locksets only? Most residential locksets are far from | > being precision devices. Imagine some sort of switch in a cheap | residential | > regular door knob - the kind where there is so much play, you can wobble | the | > whole thing every which way. | >

| > I would think the best solution would be a precision lockset specifically | > designed for this. The deadbolt would probably be easy. But the door knob | > lock would need to be a positive "locked" "not locked" design without any | > play or in-between allowed. | >

| > Also if it is a wired device, the wire to the door is prone to wearing out | > and needing replacement. (As is with businesses with gless break sensors | on | > their door windows.) | >

| >

| | |

Bill, relax. You're going into hyperdrive. There are many manufacturers who have been doing this type of application for years. The nicest, but not cheapest, way to secure a residential door is by utilizing a power lever set. The handle provides truly "locked" feedback, and can be used in conjunction with a door "shunt"switch/contact. It gets away from installing a door strike into the frame, which doesn't offer the locked status of the lever. Here's the Manufacturer we use

residential

I did an access control system for a Nationwide Home Builder's Headquarters.

36 doors. $1,700.00 for the Mahogany door. $900 for the powered mortise handle, gold plated (cost). Can't remember what the powered hinges were, seemed like around $3/400. HID Prox readers, 1078 door contact. And yes, I drilled all them freakin doors! I have to say though...it was nice when it was done. I've seen the mortise handles in the 5K range. The cylinder lock sets aren't too bad, they start around $80 and go up. You still need the powered hinge though, and they're still a few hundred bucks. $99.00 alarm with a $2,750.00 door lock! You could sell them all day in AZ Crash!

I agree totally slick when finished...a little scary drilling through an expensive door

| > I know most homeowners are not in the above bracket...indeed some wouldn't | > even pay 100 bucks per door. | >

| >

| >

| > | > Wood doors will grow or shrink with humidity changes. So if you have a | > | > switch in the jamb which detects that a dead bolt is thrown, you may | > have | > | > trouble adjusting it if the door is growing and shrinking with | humidity | > | > changes. | > | >

| > | > Then hinges will come lose and the alignment of the door may change. | > | >

| > | > Switches located in the jamb would need maintenance and adjustment. | Say | > a | > | > new door and deadbolt was installed with a longer "throw". You would | > need | > | to | > | > be able adjust the switch back for the longer throw. So access covers | to | > | the | > | > switches would be needed as well as a method of adjusting the switch. | > | >

| > | > Some safe/vault doors have such sensors. But you have an all metal | door | > | and | > | > jamb along with a precision locking system. | > | >

| > | > Install switch in locksets only? Most residential locksets are far | from | > | > being precision devices. Imagine some sort of switch in a cheap | > | residential | > | > regular door knob - the kind where there is so much play, you can | wobble | > | the | > | > whole thing every which way. | > | >

| > | > I would think the best solution would be a precision lockset | > specifically | > | > designed for this. The deadbolt would probably be easy. But the door | > knob | > | > lock would need to be a positive "locked" "not locked" design without | > any | > | > play or in-between allowed. | > | >

| > | > Also if it is a wired device, the wire to the door is prone to wearing | > out | > | > and needing replacement. (As is with businesses with gless break | sensors | > | on | > | > their door windows.) | > | >

| > | >

| > | | > | | > | | >

| >

| |

Tom,

Take a look at the below article (page two) for ideas on a door lock sensor. You could substitute any standard wireless transmitter for the hardwire hookup in the example.

Enjoy,

BobbyD

Tom wrote:

Am 24 Oct 2005 20:49:31 -0700 schrieb Tom:

For an insurance-approved alarm system they are here a conditio sine qua non. They are integrated in a "system clear" line which wouldn't allow you to arm the panel as long as the line isn't closed. On the other hand this line type doesn't cause an alarm if opened. So no problem at all with false alarms. Some examples without knowing what's available at where you live:

GE / Aritech: http://213.181.36.29/DE/products_single.php?product=RK100 Esser / Novar / Honeywell:

Obviously your windows are required to be integrated as well (eg. some push open mechanism).

Kind regards Peter