contact window

with 3/8" stubbies with mini screw terminals, one contact up top one down at bottom, then the use the super donut magnets. The bottom magnet will be harder since you have the seal in the way, but you could probably get it in there vertically.

They're gonna be a PITA...charge extra for this.

drill 3/8" hole straight up on the part of the window inside the seal. hope its thicker than it looks in that drawing. The switch hole needed to match the magnet looks a little tight on the inside going out the bottom of the sill.

:(

Man, I might go surface mount with those. The bottom part with the groove and tongue leaves very little room for a recessed contact.

I'd try a supermagnet first, looks like you have room to tuck one up beside the seal.

| > They're gonna be a PITA...charge extra for this. | | :( | | |

Maybe. But the bottom looks hard to do with surface mount, and if there is no bypass stops they'll knock off the top magnet if the open the top window past the top of the bottom one.

Where are you gonna drill the switch on the sill? Hopefully on the inside of the opening, but then the seal is in the way of the mag. I have seen installers slit the seal and put a rare-E mag inside it.

I'd drill right down through the sill 1/4" away from the movable part of the window for the bottom contact.

True, never thought of that. Maybe recess on top and surface on bottom?

Security (nee: Sentrol) R1275 for the top and bottom

Yeah, it's easy because you're not the one doing the drilling. Why don't you just STFU and die already?

Quit posting binary.

Probably GRI N20RST will fit.

Looks like there's room just inside of the sill seal, which will put your magnet location in the window seal notch, maybe a vertical rare earth glued in would work.

I hate double hungs. AND,,,it says these are Tilt...who knows how that works...I don't have the patience to figure it out from the drawing.

Hell no that won't work! The bottom sill has a flange that goes up INTO the window seal channel.

May have to put it in the side track, the windows tilt so maybe possible...who knows...??

Triple time on these puppies.

Alarm screens. js

on tilting windows?

lots of glassbreaks and pirs, do the doors, and screw the windows shut :-)

| > May have to put it in the side track, the windows tilt so maybe | > possible...who knows...?? | >

| > Triple time on these puppies. | | Alarm screens. | js | |

If you are going to use contacts these might work. (See attached) R1125 Series Recessed Mini-Max Stubby Press Fit Contact with Wire Leads, White, 1/2" & 7/8" Gap Size Available, 3/8" Dia.

The R1125 Series Mini-Max Contacts are Press Fit magnetic contacts with Mini-Max magnets. Switch is only 3/4" Long X 3/8" Dia.

If you might consider something besides contacts, gives these a look.

Barrier Bars Install Fast. The springloaded assembly snaps quickly into place with no

screws or drilling. And, Barrier Bars can be either surface or frame-mounted. The self-adhesive, epoxy-based switch

adheres to brick or cement surfaces, forming a strong, permanent bond. Barrier Bars fit windows or other perimeter

openings from 12 inches to over 40 inches wide. Once installed, they do not restrict window access: you can

partially open the window for ventilation without loss of protection. Or you may quickly remove the bars if needed.

Barrier Bars Give You a Choice.

The BB-1GS Pressure-Sensitive Barrier Bar, the BB-2 Mercury Switch Barrier Bar, and the BB-2XL Mercury Switch

Barrier Bar (metal with vertical cross bars for larger perimeter openings.)

Barrier Bars are Made to Last.

Solid, durable construction ensures that our Barrier Bars will safeguard your building indefinitely. Quality components

comprise each Barrier Bar - from the gold contact snap-action switch to the stainless steel spring, to the

armored cable and tough PVC telescope tube assembly - each component is made to exacting specifications for

lasting perimeter protection.

if I could get the rare earth magnet in the slot where it wouldn't obstruct the sill flange that would be ideal. from there the 3/8" switch would be an easy drill shot. Or those little magnet tabs RLB posted looks like they might fit in the gap between window and sill according to the drawing saving 1 drill shot per switch. I get a litlle nervous drilling some of these new $$$ windows.

Yah but at least you won't be drilling towards the glass...the rare earth mags are a godsend in that respect.

I've also used a 3/8" Forstner bit to slightly recess those rare earth mags and they come out sweet....but nerve-wracking and time consuming. You may want to think on that as well. Careful with that dry wood too, especially Pellas they seem to use the dryest splinter-prone wood. You have to say a prayer before drill these puppies.

| > lots of glassbreaks and pirs, do the doors, and screw the windows shut :-) | | | if I could get the rare earth magnet in the slot where it wouldn't obstruct | the sill flange that would be ideal. from there the 3/8" switch would be an | easy drill shot. Or those little magnet tabs RLB posted looks like they | might fit in the gap between window and sill according to the drawing | saving 1 drill shot per switch. | I get a litlle nervous drilling some of these new $$$ windows. | |

Sure. The tilting winders I've seen tilt in for cleaning. If not, they'll have to remove the screens. js

Always wanted to try a brace and bit on those. Would be easy to control;it's a bummer when the drill catches and goes in too fast. I just use a variable speed drill motor on reeeeel low speed. js

Ok I guess I've got to teach all you guys how to do this.

There's obviously always enough room on the bottom sill to drill a 3/8 inch hole for a recessed switch close to ( but not butt up against) the outside edge of the inside window sill. Drill the hole straight down, not at an angle. Then use a counter sink to ream the edge of the hole so that even though the switch is sitting straight down in the angled sill the switch will sit flush and a little below the angle of the sill..... in a slight recess. You want to drill straight down so the drill bit doesn't come out of the wall before you get to the bay. Also, if it's new construction, and the molding isn't on yet, you'll leave the switch and or the wires exposed to the trim guy. Order your 3/8 contacts without magnets.

Now you take a dowel center punch and set it in the 3/8 hole and bring the sash down so that the dowel punch leaves a mark in the bottom of the sash, directly opposite the center of the hole. This indent will usually wind up somewhere between the weather strip and the inside edge of the sash.

Order 1/4 inch rare earth magnets which will fit between the weather strip and the inside edge of the sash. counter bore the hole ( ie flat bottom bit) on the bottom of the sash between the weather strip and the inside edge of the sash. Even if the indent from the dowel center punch didn't wind up between the weather strip and the inside of the sash, put the magnet there anyway, just lined up with the mark. The rare earth mag will still hold it in. I get Tane rare earth 1/4 inch magnets, only because they're convenient. They have to be cemented in and caulked, because they don't have a center hole.

On the top sash, order your surface contacts without magnets. Drill through the side top of the window as close to the top and sash, as you can. Above the track, where the hole can't be seen, if you can. Sometimes you can or have to drill up, but then you have to caulk/hide the hole. Use a surface mount switch mounted a half to one inch away from the side track. To avoid the magnet from being knocked off when the sashes pass one another, after you've mounted the switch, close the sash and put a mark on the sash where one end of the switch is. Just inside the switch side of the line, drill a counter bore hole for the 1/4 inch rare earth mag as close to the top edge of the sash as you can, without taking a chance that you wont leave enough meat ..... Cement and then cover the hole and magnet with caulking. People usually don't mind the surface mount on the top sash and I use it rather than another recessed, because it saves time.

Been doing it this way for about 4/5years now. It's a little elaborate with a number of steps but if you do it production style, ( perform the same operation on all the windows at the same time) it works great.

I haven't posted this before because I know Jack-off Bass is going to steal it ..... but what the hell.