Terminations

The ends aren't that fragile. They'll have protective covers and a pull sock over them. This is typically what I buy for fiber assemblies.

If you are talking about about too small of a hole, then it could be too small in general for the fiber entrance anyway. You aren't trying to minimize penitration, but go for what is easiest to work with without damaging the fiber, and seal the penitration after the fact.

You can buy pigtails already done that way. But, doing it properly will cost some bucks. I wouldn't think about doing it myself. A fiber cleaving tool to get real good ends is around $1300.

A fanout kit is just a bunch of sleeves in order to eliminate a fiber-patch panel?

Way more than hiring a fiber guy.

You can buy tools that are in the hundreds ranges ($500 + $200 + $100) but these are the low-end bargin basement range. Hard to learn, doesn't do that great of a job, etc..

They'll do whatever you request. Since the fusion splice machine costs more than a car, they're going to charge you appropriately for using it. The fusion splices are the best. A cost of over $100 a splice with the fusion splicer is probably the basement bargin cost. It gets expensive.

I take it you aren't considering field-terminated ends? They will bring the cost down considerably, but won't be quite as reliable. My kit was about $1000, and took some hours to learn how to use reliably, and even then takes much time to terminate not that many strands. Still nowhere like factory made ends.

Same thing. I'd call it a fiber patch/distribution panel myself.

Yes. The main reason is that there will inevitably be somebody messing with them. If they mess up the patch cable, big deal. Get another. If they mess up your fiber pull, then you're hosed on that pair. If you've used up all your pairs, its time to pull again.

Also, 3 years down the road in the future, you'll want to do something else, and the way fiber has gone, with totally different ends needed then. See much MTRJ anymore? That was going to be all the rage 5 years ago. LC was unheard of. Everything was going to be MRTJ everywhere. The FDP will let you change out whatever you have at the time with whatever is the next greatest thing.

Here's what I'd do for maximum future proof, reliability. (Experience from my 18 years in the communications business, not necessarily being the cable installer, but being the cable end-user, as well as doing my own installation & pulls as needed).

Get the premade assembly from Graybar with a pull sock on the end, measure exact distance needed with some rope/cord following exact same path (you can use this even to pull it through the holes). Get FDP's for the termination racks at either side where the fiber and switches will live. They can be just smaller rack-mount ones, like 1U,

12-strand FDPs, with whatever connector preloaded that you'd like. I'd still pick SC on the FDP, should be about $100. Pull the fiber yourself, making sure to use PVC conduit through the penetration to the outside, and seal up with firestop, caulking and whatever else is needed.

Buy duplex patch cables from the FDP down to the gear of the right length, and right connector type (ie. SC to LC).

Using the pre-made assembly will be the cheapest to get done, and isn't as fragile as you think it'll be.

Doug, Thanks for the detailed recommendations. I appreciate the time you took to reply.

You mentioned a 12-strand FDP. Is there a problem with 6-strand cable and box?

I presume you recommend ordering the cable assembly with all the strands pre-terminated, right? Will they automatically stagger the ends or do I need to request this?

Why SC rather than ST on the FDP inserts?

No, no problem with 6-strand. There's virtually no cost difference between 6-strand and 12-strand fiber. (well, okay, 9% difference in cost based on my last quote, certainly not double). In general, I've found 12-strand to be more popular, which means cheaper, more available, not having to special order, etc. After 12 strands, you just gang up 12-strand bundles internally.

Yes, both ends pre-terminated. One end gets the pull sock. The other end will come wrapped up in bubble wrap to protect it all until installed. You will have to make sure you are close in exact length you need then.

Yes, the ends will automatically get staggered inside the pull sock to minimize the profile of the bundle, and to also fan out in the tray of the FDP.

Just more popular. Seeing as SC is the connector for 100-Base-FX, it sort of took off in general installations for everything that I've seen. ST is valid, although you tend to see it more in the older installations, as 10 years ago, everything was ST connectors. You'll see alot of patch cords like this, but SC will be as popular.

I once had an CLEC tech tell me that ST became lots less popular after the others came about in that if there's a spec of abbrasive dust on the very tip, that the act of rotating them into the socket can scratch them up alot worse, than just pushing them in until they lock like with SC.

Thank you very much, Doug. Bob

I agree but I'd go with an extra 5' or 10' on each end. You can coil it up in a box made for such or make your own. But if you have to remodel at either end down the road you have some flexibility so things can be moved.

David