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Could two relays overload door-unlock output?

I have a car alarm, Excalibur, AL-1510-EDP. It has been installed in my Chryler LeBaron for about 3 years and had always worked fine. (In a previous car, I had an AL-1000-E for several years)

The alarm included a separate relay to unlock the two doors** and another separate relay to unlock the trunk. The standard automotive relays used with car alarms.

Since the trunk lid doesn't pop up anyhow, and I often wanted the trunk open when I unlocked the car, I changed the wiring, I moved the trunk relay wire, so that when I unlock the car doors, it also unlocks the trunk.

Everything was fine for a week, but then the remote, both of them would no longer arm the alarm, or lock or unlock the locks.**

Did I overload the circuit by connecting two relays to the same output?

**Alhthough it's not totally dead. I think there are 3 fuses in the setup and none are blown. When the battery dies (as it did often in the cold winter, I have a Battery Buddy that disconnects the battery when it gets too low, and when I push the button on the battery buddy to reset it, or sometimes after that, when I then turn the ignition key (one or the other and always), the alarm sounds for 4 or 5 seconds and stops.

If I overloaded it, or not, is there any chance of repairing it? I have many years of very part time amateur tv repair. If the problmee is in an IC, I'm stuck, but if there's an internal relay I overloaded, I should be able to fix that, for example, and maybe even something more difficult.

**And another one to look the doors. There is also the other usual features like a current sensor, a starter motor interrupt, Echo II two-way remote, plus a regular remote.
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mm
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That's what I would have thought.

Neither the trunk nor the locks do anything when I reconnect, after the Battery Buddy disconnects (which has happened probably 20+ times).

But it does set off the siren every time the battery buddy disconnects the battery and then I reconnect it.

I don't want to bother them just for myself. I'm not a dealer, and I think they'd prefer me to take it to a dealer or just buy another one.

I did put in the diodes, as the installation manual said to.

I delayed posting until I read these. Thanks.

DA

Then the alarm output would

Reply to
mm

That's what I would have thought.

Neither the trunk nor the locks do anything when I reconnect, after the Battery Buddy disconnects (which has happened probably 20+ times).

But it does set off the siren every time I reconnect after the battery buddy disconnects, so there must be power.**

I don't want to bother them just for myself. I'm not a dealer, and I think they'd prefer me to take it to a dealer or just buy another one.

I did put in the diodes, as the installation manual said to. I was careful and I'm sure I did it right, but if they were backwards, that would cause a problem of its own, from the beginning, right? The output would be shorted and the locks or trunk would never open, iiuc.

I delayed posting until I read these. Thanks.

DANG! Why didn't I think of that? Better yet, in advance. Then if it broke, I wouldn't be wondering if I was the cause.

I have no garage and it was a cold winter. The weather's getting warm. I'll try some more, I'll open the thing if I have to and check out the lock output, and if that doesn't work, I'll put in another one.

Thanks a lot.

**(They don't sell Battery Buddys anymore, but Battery Brains are simlar. I haven't been stuck by a dead battery in 15 years, since I got the thing, even though I've used really poor batteries that I know would have gone completely dead. I love the thing, although I have to reset the radio stations after it trips, and the engine control computer forgets details of how to run the engine, but it always seems fine again within 2 minutes. This is a '95. Maybe newer cars would forget more.)
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mm

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