overall, in the past i was happy with D-Link, it was hell of the better then LinkSys, but I think LinkSys geting on the feets after it was bought by Cisco, and D-Link is geting worse and worse..
I have Centrino laptop and and every now and then my laptop (especially if there is no activity) will get disconted and connect back, and after I enable WAP-PSK instead of WEP, it's doing that every 1-2 minutes..
oh and I also geting
"Windows was unable to find a certificate to log you to the network"
I understand this is not D-Link related, its something else.. but still d-link geting worse
Thou shalt not butcher error messages. The exact error message should be: "Windows was unable to find a certificate to log you on to the network [SSID]" Google shows 37 hits with this exact phrase.
This is caused by setting the encryption to WPA-RADIUS instead of WPA-PSK on the client radio. Both the router and the client are trying to find a RADIUS server with which to authenticate your system. Switch the encryption to WPA-PSK (pre-shared key) on both ends and it will work.
i'm sorry, i didnt read right at the first place..
i have only one SID set as to use "automaticly" and all other set "on demand" so i doubt its connecting to others..
with WEP it keeps my connection for a lot longer ( about 5-10 min ) if i produce a lot of traffic then it drops connection like every half a minute or a minute or so.. if i produce no traffic it keeps me up for 10 min.. if i have ping my router constantly then connection doesn't get droped, unless i start producing too much traffic.. well even with pinging it can get drop not as often as without though..
with WAP-PSK i get that message, then connection is seems to be ok.. for next a minute or so .. then it drops and comes back up but if i start pinging my router it doesn't respond anymore.. so my best bet is turn off wireless radio, turn it back on and start connection for another minute or two..
this is driving me nutz..
i want to call d-link and i dont know.. shoot them all or something.. right through the phone if its possible..
"John Smith" wrote in news:knAae.3305$RP1.2 @fe10.lga:
I think the other poster has your answer. But if you don't know how to set the preferred wireless network ID with XP, it could lead to more problems if the card tries to seek other wireless networks in your area and connect to them dropping the connection to your network.
no, i have not tryed that.. i kind of figure there is no point to re-flashing same firmware, i went to their site and they dont have no updates for 2 years period.. so i'm thinking trying to call them monday but overall droping this product and geting something else.. but i'll give it a shot on reflashing same firmware though.. i highly doubt it'll help... btw.. if there would be a problem with DHCP, i dont get that problem on hardwired computer.. its only with wireless and i even tryed few NICs.. they all have same problem.. so its not NIC either..
Surely you jest. The typical wireless router (BEFW11S4, WRT54G) has a wide range switching power supply inside on the DC input. Although nominally rated at 12VDC, these units will work on anything between about 4VDC to perhaps 18VDC. There's a substantial capacitor on the input to take care of any glitches and dropouts. The wall wart xformer has a very limited frequency response and will not pass nanosecond glitches. If anything, these routers are almost totally immune to just about anything that can reasonably appear on the AC line short of a lightning bolt.
I tested my BEFW11S4v4 to see how much of a dropout it could take. The circuit was simple enough. A 2n3055 pass xsistor from 12VDC and a
2n2222 on/off switch driven by my Wavetek something function generator. I set it for a fairly low frequency (about 0.5Hz) and increased the pulse width (actually the duty cycle) until the router crapped out. It would take about 150msec without power before it failed.
I decided that 100msec was not enough. So, I added a BFC (big fat cazapitor), from my junk box, across the power input line to add some storage capacity. That brought it up to about 700msec, which should be enough. I think it was 6800uf at 15VDC but I'm not sure.
The math is fairly simple. The WRT54G v1.1 draws about 0.45A at 12VDC (or the equivalent of a 27 ohm resistor). It will run down to perhaps
5VDC safely which is very roughly 1/2 the RC time constant. Crudely approximating: 0.5*t = RC or C = t/2R C = 1 sec / (2 * 27) = 1 / 106 = .019Farads = 20,000 uF So, if you want to run the router with no DC power for about 1 second, just add 20,000uf across the power input. In my never humble opinion, this is much more useful for glitch protection than a UPS.
Now, while I'm bashing UPS's, I've had a problem which I don't understand. I have 3 customers all with exactly the same problem. Each has some type of UPS running the broadband equipment. They all have Cayman/Netopia 3546 routers. Every few months, the UPS kicks in and wipes the non-volatile flash in the router. It's a known defect in the router and it drives me nuts because I have to call Netopia support, and get a magic secret key number from them to re-enable the added features. About a year ago, I suspected that the UPS might be causing the problem so I moved the wall wart from the UPS output to the AC wall power. No problems yet on any of the three routers. The only thing that's common to these three UPS's is that they're the cheaper "simulated sine wave" type, instead of the more expensive true sine wave variety.
So, what is it about UPS power that can cause a router to lose its mind?
"John Smith" wrote in news:7wPae.11399$ email@example.com:
Well there is this problem with NAT routers where some machines connected to the router can access a site while other machine cannot access the same site. The solution is to re-flash the router. FYI if case you see that problem.
Have you got the router protected properly with an UPS/AVR system? The routers don't like spikes on the line from other household appliances switching on and off all the time spiking the line. They like good clean and constant power and will go defective if it's happening on a routine basis and they are not protected properly.
And I am not talking about some surge protector strip lying on the floor plugged into some wall outlet. UPS/AVR systems are cheap now of days.
Well I have seen too many posts of the devices not only in this NG but in others that were going out the door when mine was not. I also had some issues with the router after a couple of months of having it. That all cleared when I got the Belkin UPS and I have not looked back. I will not connect anything like a computer and routers or anything else up without a UPS/AVR system. As a matter of fact, all of my equipment FW appliance, hub, computers, modem and everything else are connected through the UPS.
As for your UPS customer problems what can say? There are M&M's and then there are M&M's with peanuts.
I am glad you got your problems fixed. But did I want to hear the vent??????? ;-)