Netgear Rebate scam - seeking information

I've found that to be a common practice with most mail-in rebates.

I now refuse to buy any item that plays this game of "mail-in rebates". For me, it's "Provide the discount immediately or lose the sale".

Does that work out for you? Can you find the same (or equivalent) item elsewhere for the rebate price without the rebate?

I once had to phone about a rebate that was disallowed for a strange reason. The phone guy figured out what the problem was (their data entry person goofed) and asked me to send in copies of what I had. I told him I already did everything right, how about if I just read stuff to you so you know that I actually have what's needed? He said fine, I did, and the check came within two weeks -- nearly instantaneously for this sort of thing.

One thing that I have been doing and it appears to be successful because I haven't been skunked out of a rebate since doing it. Seems many submissions come back with a note saying that you were missing something they requested. When I submit a rebate claim I put a note in the envelope "Entire submission copied and kept on file". This seems to discourage the shady rebate centers from claiming that you didn't submit something. Works for me, maybe you should try it.

Forget Netgear - go back to the seller (Amazon) and complain. They will issue you a credit for the amount of the rebate.

I make sure my rebate submittal is correct, then make copies of everything. Then I give the rebate processors one shot at fulfilling the rebate, if they fail it is the sellers responsibility to make it right. Works for me every time.

"Forget Netgear - go back to the seller (Amazon) and complain. They will issue you a credit for the amount of the rebate."

While that sounds wonderful, I have NEVER heard of a retailer issuing a credit to a customer because of a rebate not being paid.

Rebates are truly an art. You MUST do the following:

1. Follow all instructions PERFECTLY.

1. Keep a copy of EVERYTHING YOU SEND. I have a file called "rebates" in my desk.

2. Mail your rebate claim with delivery confirmation or something so you have proof of delivery. I check the USPS web site and when it's delivered I print out that proof and attach it to my other documents. Kinda tricky because first class mail must be 3/4" thick to use delivery confirmation, but if you use a bubble mailer you should be able to do it and DC is cheap.

1. I only do rebates where the status can be checked online or via phone. I look at the rebate form BEFORE purchasing and if I have no way to keep an eye on it, I will not purchase the item.

2. If the company claims they did not receive the rebate, I then called and tell them I have proof they received it. 99% of the time, they immediately "find it".. only once did I have to fax the proof.

1. If they claim I didn't send something I know I did, I tell them I have a copy of what they received and offer to fax it. 99% of the time they simply validate the rebate because they know I've got them cornered.

Understanding, 80% of the rebates I do are processed fine. But I use the stuff above to protect myself against the 20% that give me trouble. It's been years since I have not received my full rebate in the end.

If I absolutely HAD to have that exact model, I suppose I'd consider playing the game. However, there is usually another model / competitive item either in that store or elsewhere, where I'd just as soon pay a small premium rather than wasting time / taking risk on the likeliness of actually getting the rebate. In the former case, I wouldn't plan on actually getting it, but would take it, if it actually arrived. Sometimes, it's actually "cheaper" to pay a bit more.

One strong point for Walmart is they don't seem to play the "rebate" game. I've read they apparently negotiate with suppliers to provide an upfront discount or just not carry such items.

There is an art to "rebating". You must have everything just as specified on the rebate form (if it says "oigional" then a "copy" won't do). I make photo copies of everything required for the rebate (UPC code from box, receipt, rebate receipt, rebate form with the mail in address, etc). I've found that sometimes boxes have more than one bar code on them, with neither specifically identified as the UPC one. I send both codes (after making copies of both) to make sure the requirement is met. For the big rebates, I always send the rebate as certified or return receipt mail so I have proof it was delivered. I make a note on the copies of the date on which the rebate was submitted (the rebaters wait the max time to send the rebate out). Once I got serious about getting it right, I don't think I've not gotten my rebates (including netgear). Just remember they are counting on you not sending in the rebate, waiting too long to send it in, or not following the rules in some way to keep that $20. In your case you probably submitted something that wasn't the UPC code. I once sent in a UPC bar code instead of a rebate bar code on the flap of the box and it was disallowed until I sent in the correct bar code.

I've noticed that some rebates now say they will refuse certified mail.

Brian Elfert

CompUSA made good on a Targus laptop bag rebate I was having trouble with a few years back, and they did it not by issuing a credit, but by refunding me the cash directly. It's one of the reasons that I still shop there-just not for Targus products. Reputable retailers who want to keep your business won't hesitate to step up when one of their suppliers or a subcontractor working for them drops the ball.

Amazon will not honor any 3rd party rebates. They will always refer you back to the manufacturer or store that shipped the item to you.

You screwed yourself. By re-submitting, you admitted that you never sent the UPC code in the first place. Now they have a valid excuse not to pay the rebate, as you didn't comply with all the terms. You should have insisted that the rebate was paid on the first and only claim. -Dave

Slightly OT but I'm gonna get my 2 cents in here about Hawking rebates. I have 5 rebates from Hawking products that they received on 9/8/05. Their rebate site says that all 5 are in "Processing". The next step is "Check Approval". Then "Check Mailed". Does anyone know if there are any legal requirements as far as how long a company can wait to mail out rebate checks? I've noticed that rebates from stores like Best Buy and CompUSA arrive much faster than rebates from the product makers.

I have. If they advertised the rebate, reputable sellers know that they lose business if the rebates aren't honoured. It's a lot simpler to try this once than to keep fighting with the 3rd party rebate company.

Why bother playing the game? I consider the price to be what I pay at the register, and the rebate forms go right in the trash. My time is too valuable to fight the battles that others have described here...

If they have the product you want and the price (ignoring the rebate) is right, go ahead and buy it.

Fry's, Staples, CompUSA, and Checker Auto (Kragen/Shuck's) have done that for me. Best Buy refused to pay a rebate, even though they had misprinted the expiration date ("That doesn't matter."), but I finally got my money when I spoke with a store manager who wasn't like any other BB employee -- an actual non-brainwashed human being.

One person at FatWallet.com who went to small claims court over a rebate was told by a court clerk to file the suit against the merchant because they bore responsibility if they advertised the rebate. This is why I always retain the store ad until the rebate check clears.

Here's the principle that should be important to you: you've just wasted, what, $50 worth of your time in order to collect a $20 rebate? Even if you get the rebate check tomorrow, you have lost time (== money) thay you can never recoup. Your subject line says it all: rebates are a scam!

The only way you can profit from this experience is to learn the lesson that playing the rebate game is like playing the slot machines in Vegas: the odds are stacked heavily in favor of the house.

Smart man!

Now if enough people wise up, as you have, this whole rebate scam will go the way of the Dodo bird.

Staples and Costco both allow you to file rebates through their web site. No paperwork, the receipt tracking number is sufficient.