Lmr-400 Crimping pliers

I don't know about the source, but what you're looking for is an HT-336k (yellow handles) from TCC(???). Search Google for HT-336K and you'll find lots of vendors. I think I paid $35 plus shipping from some long forgotten vendor.

From Australia:

Note that you can usually buy one frame, and a bunch of replacement dies (for different sizes) and save some money. I don't do this mostly because I always manage to lose the attaching screws.

If you're going to be doing lots of LMR-400 crunching, be sure to get lots of crimp connectors. I prefer the ones from RF Industries (mostly because they're cheap).

For outdoor waterproofing, be sure to get some 1" wide PTFE plumbing tape. Wrap everything in the teflon tape to keep out the water and prevent capillary action from sucking in water. Then embalm the teflon tape with Scotch 66 electrical tape. One nice thing about this method is that the connector looks like new when the wrap is removed.

"Jeff Liebermann" | | For outdoor waterproofing, be sure to get some 1" wide PTFE plumbing | tape. Wrap everything in the teflon tape to keep out the water and | prevent capillary action from sucking in water. Then embalm the | teflon tape with Scotch 66 electrical tape. One nice thing about this | method is that the connector looks like new when the wrap is removed. |

I've always (30 years+) used shrink tubing and silicon compound. this off shore in heavy salt spary on oil rigs. When necessary to removed simply score with a box knife and heat with a propane torch and the protective 'stuff' comes right off' The task can be done one handed as I've done the deed high up on oil rigs.

That's just as good, if not better, for waterproofing. I found out the hard way that the problem is not to shed water, but to prevent capillary action from sucking the water into the connector. Just shrink tube or tape over a connector is not good enough, especially if the connector is knurled. The silicon grease and PTFE tape both act as a conformal water seal while the tape or shrink tube simply holds the seal in place. The interface is air tight, so there's no danger of capillary action.

I don't have 30 years experience with using the PTFE method. I invented it about 10 years ago and have used it in perhaps 15 installations. (I don't do tower work any more). None are in a salt spray environment.

Most of the "professional" installs I run into use 3M cold shrink, which is rather expensive, stiff, and difficult to remove. Some have a sticky interior. The worst installs use rubber sealing putty, which waterproofs well, but also cracks when exposed to sunlight, and makes a huge mess when removed.

I hadn't thought of scoring and heating to remove the shrink tube. Great idea. Thanks.

Wicking is the reason for the silicone sealant.

BTW many of these were with aluminum coax and aluminum connectors.

I've use the prepared cold shrink but find that the scoring and heat treatment works fine regardless.

Gaaaak. I thought the acetic acid in the silicon goo attacks aluminum.

I've never had a problem, but there's enough anecdotal evidence around to make me suspicious.

I obtained a pile of cold shrink sleeves from the local power company that were perfect for N connectors and heliax. However, they had some sticky goo on the insides, that made removal rather challenging. I had to peel it off the connectors. I switched to non-sticky-goo cold shrink, and have lived happily ever after.

There are various silicone greases, gels and RTV materials that can be used. Only one is not appropriate for use on copper or aluminum. The issue is with one flavor of RTV silicone. There are two curing methods for RTV. One is peroxide cure which produces acetic acid from the curing reaction. The other is alcohol cure. The stuff found in big box stores is peroxide cure.

I saw them for $20 usd at this site, but have no idea about the vendor. Looks like they have a presence in Australia.