Had this wireless router for at least 5 years and just lately its gone down. It transmits but seems not to want to connect to Internet. Updated firmware to DD-WRT successfully. Verizon is my ISP and its setup as DCHP. Is there any test I can run to verify that its broke? BTW, I did have a power outage a few days ago and the DSL modem went down but all it took to get it up and running was a reset. Also reset the router to, but still no Internet. Is it just time to get a new wireless router? Think I'll get the same one,(this thing has been bullet proof for years and has never dropped signal).. I've been hearing really bad reviews on the N wireless routers unless you spend over $150.00.... Running Linux and Apples.
Never mind the wireless. What happens when you plug your computah into an ethernet port? Got connectivity? Can you ping the router? Can you ping the ISP gateway?
What exact version of DD-WRT? What hardware version of the WRT54G? (See serial number tag). There are firmware versions that have problems and combinations that don't work too well.
So, go unto the status page. Did Verizon successfully give you a DHCP assigned IP address, gateway, and DNS server?
No. However, there are some tests you can run to verify that it's working. As previously mentioned, take the wireless out of the picture and check just the router to internet connection with ping. If that fails, plug your computah directly into your DSL modem and try pinging from there. If you have a spare computah, you might use that to verify that your Linux/Mac/whatever is working.
Incidentally, check the wall wart power supply. I've seen some failures. Some get really hot and partially fail (check with voltmeter). They're easy to recognize as the white label usually turns brown from the heat.
Reset like in punching the reset button on the modem? If you had any saved settings, they're gone now.
DD-WRT doesn't really respond to the reset button. It can be disabled in the firmware. Since you also shuffled the deck by doing a firmware upgrade, you might want to do the reset to defaults from the web based menu.
It's 9:30AM. This is a bit early to go shopping. Perhaps later in the day.
WRT54G boxes are fairly good, but not all versions. V5 and V6 hardware are useless junk (not enough RAM for the full DD-WRT). V7 is based on an Atheros chipset that doesn't like DD-WRT. Some versions have non-removable antennas:
Hopefully, you've been reading such things as hearing voices is a symptom of too much computing and RF. I have my own opinions about
802.11n. Basically, if you want or need speed for things like streaming video or local machine to machine file transfers, 802.11n is what you want. However, you don't get speed for free. You lose range and reliability with increased speed. So, if you want a stable, reliable, but modestly fast connection, stay with 802.11g.
Ok, so you have connectivity. When you switch between a direct computer to DSL modem connection, to installing the WRT54G in between, please power cycle the modem so that it picks up the MAC address from the router.
Read what I wrote. Please forget about wireless for now. Do your testing with a CAT5 cable from your computah to the router. Once that's working, you can work on the wireless part of the puzzle.
Don't use mini. That's fine for an initial load, but I'm very suspicious of the mini version, which doesn't get as much testing at the STD version.
As John mentioned, there are problems with some of the "recommended" firmware versions. What's your build number? John recommends build 12533. I just checked a few of mine and that also the built I'm running. Except for erratic PPTP VPN disconnects, it's stable. Incidentally, I'm not using STD. I prefer NoKaid so that I pickup a few KBytes more working RAM.
Good hardware version. That should work fine.
It also doesn't seem like I'm getting through. IP address, netmask, gateway, and DNS. You just supplied the IP address. Go to the web page config. Status -> WAN You'll find the numbers at the top of the page.
That's weird. I've seen that before but can't recall the cause. According to Cisco, that's caused when: The interface on which the packet comes into the router is the same interface on which the packet gets routed out. or The subnet or network of the source IP address is on the same subnet or network of the next-hop IP address of the routed packet. and some other stuff that's specific to Cisco IOS. I would guess it's the first, which is a wiring error. My guess(tm) is that you have both the DSL modem and the Linux box plugged into the LAN ports on the router. Did you or someone juggle cables just before the router failed?
Yep. Now, if I knew the make and model of the DSL modem, I might be able to confirm that it's really a bridging type DSL modem, and not the usual AT&T supplied DSL modem with a crude form of NAT that screws everything up. I have no idea what Verizon normally provides.
Ok. Did you RESET the router after you loaded DD-WRT? That's an option when you install it. I've had problems moving config files between versions. I sometimes have to clear the router and re-renter everything from scratch by hand (not from the previous config file). This sucks, but that's what was necessary to make things work a few times.
That's the most likely explanation in a 'simple' topology like a home broadband connection. The fact that you get a new nexthop of the address you're trying to ping implies you're in the same subnet as your destination. Have you perhaps plugged the LAN and the WAN in the wrong way round?