can't get connected if....

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news:88l6m1htac25k2cdk4ubg2tg288nrng9q3@

4ax.com:

The router stays on 24/7 365 and you turn it off when you go on vacation. The router is not like you're turning a TV on and off. Do you see an on/ off switch on the router? You keep switching it on and off like that and it may eventually go defective on you.

You don't turn the router off and your problem is sloved.

Duane :)

No wonder the world's in such sad shape. My router is on when I need it. I've got 930W of solar panels and occasional extra from a windmill. I don't use electricity to keep things "ready".

Chances are just as good that the heat from being on all the time will get to it first. I'll let you know which goes first - my neighbor's, always on, WRT54G or mine. Bought at the same time and installed two weeks apart

- obviously from the same manufacturing run as they have adjacent MACs. Of course, you'll probably have to wait until they're both long obsolete before it happens.

You just always give the router time to boot, _then_ turn on your PC and your problems are equally solved.

Well, I do have some customers that turn off their routers. They seem to think that the security problems are incurable and that if they leave the router unattended, aliens will invade their computers and do evil and dastardly deeds. I also have one customer turning off their router to keep the kids off the internet when they should be doing something else. For these people, I setup the clients with fixed IP addresses so that DHCP is not necessary to operate. The router can be turned on at any time and everything will have the correct IP, netmask, gateway, and DNS servers pre-configured.

I also have 3 hot-spots that turn off their wireless after 6PM to discourage the table hogs. When the place gets seriously over crowded, the wireless gets turned off. However, I have these setup with separate boxes for the router and the wireless access point. The wireless access point can be turned on and off without affecting the router.

Doing the math... Linksys BEFW11S4 draws about 7 watts. At $0.15/kw-hr, that's:

7 watts / 1000 watts * 365 days * 24 hrs/day * $0.15 = $0.92/year

From all off, modem on, wait 1 minute, router on, wait 1 minute, boot PC.

When you're done, like Duane says, leave the modem & router ON... always.

hi, got a problem which i do not know whether is usual or not. I cannot get connected to the net after i have booted up to windows then switched on my router.The status on the router shows connected but can't get to surf. Can get connected only if i have switched on the router first than boot up to windows. Is that normal? Please advise and thanks Using windows xp with a DLink router. ChnG

No one goes around turning the router on and off like that. The OP is asking for trouble if he continues with it.

Duane :)

Derek Broughton wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.pointerstop.ca:

Yeah OK. If you got to play like that, then I suggest that you turn it back in and get your money back. I left my Linksys 11S4 v1 on 24/7 365 for four years striaght then it died. I'll do the same with my FW appliance too. I myself will not play that game. I got better things to do.

Duane :)

I do. And I'm reasonably confident I'll get at least the same 4 years out of mine that you got. It's simply not a big deal to turn a router on and off. They're computers - made with the same care (or lack of it) as your desktop PC. I can get 4 years out of a much abused laptop (4.5 out of the last one), which gets turned on and off at least as much as the OP's router.

What's the smiley? Is it OK to call everybody else idiots because you use a smiley?

Why on earth would I do that? It works just fine.

Mean time to failure on the chips involved is probably around 4 years. I'll probably get at least four years on mine, because it won't actually be turned on for at least 80% of that time.

Well, if it helps any, your WRT54G will run on any DC voltage between about 4VDC and 18VDC. Possibly higher than 18VDC as limited by the unknown voltage rating on the input cazapitor in the power supply circuit. The WRT54G has a nifty LM2941 switching regulator. I run some of these on 12V 7A gel cells and solar chargers.

I'm trying to find my measurements of the BEFW11S4 and WRT54G current drains. It's much less than your measured 11 watts. For example, see:

claims 5.6 watts for the WRT54G. I'm not sure how much the power xformer contributes, but my guess is about 1-2 watts loss.

Incidentally, I just tried my BEFW11s4 on my Kill-a-watt power meter. It claims 3 watts (power factor corrected) or 5VA. That's about right.

LM2941 regulator specs:

Photo of my BEFW11s4 running on 3.7VDC input. It's kinda difficult to see but full scale on my HP power supply is 7VDC.

Doing the math, my WRT54G draws an average of 11W (measured, not from specs). Over 24 hours, that's 24*11 = 264Wh, of the 1500Wh I generate on an average day. Needless to say, it doesn't matter how much those 264Wh cost me to generate :-)

Oops. Some models of the WRT54G use an Anachip AC 1501-33 regulator.

Derek Broughton wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.pointerstop.ca:

It's my signature you shit for brains. If you don't like it, you know where you can stick it the smiley.

Duane

Derek Broughton wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.pointerstop.ca:

Stick that f****ng up your ass.

Duane

Duane Arnold wrote in news:Xns96FF78834C9CBnotmenotmecom@207.217.125.201:

I don't want you to miss that *router* part. You can stick the f****ng router up your ass. You should make sure it's turned off before you do it.

Duane

My PV/Wind system runs at 24VDC (nominal), so potential voltages up to 30V. A bit too high:-)

I get at least 7 watts when there's no wireless device connected at this end. It's a WDS repeater though, so I rather doubt it really sleeps. But even if my numbers are incorrect (half the time, it's practically impossible to read the Kill-a-watt without a flashlight - I wish they'd incorporated a switched light into it), it's constant power I can't afford. I don't leave _any_ permanent power drains on in my house.

Well, there are plenty of 24VDC to 12VDC DC to DC converters around. They're common in military 24VDC vehicles (Hummer) and PV systems. A small 15 watt unit is about $30. Figure about 85% efficiency.

Yeah, you're probably right. I helped build a few PV systems (making every mistake possible in the process). Continuous loads are a bad idea.

Y'er right about the Kill-a-Watt back lighting. Even in sunlight, the display is rather dim. I suspect it's not very accurate at low current loads (

Derek Broughton wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.pointerstop.ca:

Take that f****ng router plug some cable into it and then hang your sorry ass on it.

Duane :)