Problem with Scantronic avenger VI

Hello all,

We have an AV6000 that is not working well. Upon simulating an intrusion, the alarm will only make a short "blip" (1 or 2 sec at most) and then stop (and nothing is sent to the central).

When we simulate a power outing (by cutting the breaker), the central does get a warning so it's not like a communication problem

Can this be a configuration problem ?

Reply to
Euh
Loading thread data ...

I'm not familiar with the AV6000 but it could be the same problems as in the other thread.

It's just a theory but .....It could be that your standby battery is down to Ziltch. The reason it goes to central during an AC failure is that the siren isn't blowing. When you cause an alarm, the siren draws so much power and if the battery is really REALLY low, the transformer output is being consumed by the battery (because a really low battery is almost a dead short)and there's nothing left for the panel .....

Ultimately, when the siren tries to blow it draws so much that the transformer can't supply the power to the panel and the panel just resets. As soon as the panel resets, the siren turns off and now the transformer has enough capacity to run the panel again.

Try changing the standby battery.

Reply to
Jim

I just thought about it again and it could be a bad (shorted) siren speaker or siren driver or self contained siren which ever one you might have. But I would hope there would be a fuse on the board that would blow if this were the cause.

Reply to
Jim

Im thinking along same line you are jim could be battery av6000 is pretty old panel.

Reply to
nick markowitz

Old?? its prehistoric!!

Reply to
Petem

I opened the control panel and there is indeed a big battery (Exaltor

12V5AH). On the battery itself, it's written that it should be changed every 3-5 years. We certainly never did it (for a good 6 years at least).

Touching it, the battery itself felt kind of warm...actually even Hot...is this normal or another sign that its life is over ?

What would be the symptom of a dead battery ? Is the alarm bell powered by this battery or by the house electrical circuit ?

Reply to
Euh

pe de

If if were prehistoric ....... I would be the only one here who would know that.

Reply to
Jim

(sigh)

Please read the First Alert FA210 thread.

and yes, if the battery is hot it needs to be changed. However, in spite of the fact that the panel still runs, you might consider replacing it for a couple of hundred dollars. It really IS prehistoric.

Reply to
Jim

why would you change something that works and replace it by some fancy electronic crap that will last half as much ?

A battery is like 25 $.

Anyway, will removing the battery mess up the alarm program ?

Reply to
Euh

there is a LED labeled "batt" on the Keypad panel....so the system should tell me if the battery is damaged/low, no ?

Reply to
Euh

You need to press and hold the status button, the top light "yellow" will flash along with one of the top 3 zone lights. if the one labeled bat flashes you know the battery is low. But you have already confirmed it is bad. A hot battery is a definate sign of a bad battery.

James

Reply to
James B

And you would know that by what experience?

At the least a new panel would let you know well in advance that the battery was getting low and it wouldn't reset itself when it did. The transformer would have been big enough to keep the system operating even if you didn't pay attention to the low battery alert. You do realize, of course, that there was a prolonged period of time, during the final stages of the batteries deterioration, that ...... if the alarm panel would have tripped for an alarm condition, that it would not have had the power to transmit an alarm to central station nor blow the siren. Who knows how long you were without protection? YOU certainly didn't and only because your panel was manufactured eons before the present fancy electronic crap systems that would have warned you. You only knew there was a problem when the battery was so completly dead that you couldn't arm it. It wasn't working LOOOOOONG before that occured.

You should be able to get a 12volt 7AH for just about that amount. Just shop around a little. Or ask your alarm company or if you don't have your one alarm company, just try a few local alarm companies close to you and tell them you'll drive over and pick it up.

I don't know. I've never used that panel but some of the older panels would lose their arming codes if they were de-powered. ( which you had to re-enter) However, at this point, since your panel was resetting because it didn't have sufficent power, and because I suspect that you've already had the transformer pulled at the same time as the battery is disconnected, and it's still working, you should be alright. But you may want to wait to see if someone in this group who has used the panel before and still remembers how it worked, knows for sure.

Reply to
Jim

If i remember correctly it was all prom programmed including codes

Reply to
nick markowitz

Not to contradict you (I appreciate the assistance), but I dont have a clear evidence that the battery IS the (only) problem. I will replace it due to the overheating issue, but I have a feeling it isn't going to solve my initial problem

lets recapitulate:

1) Under "normal use" (panel powered by the home circuit), when an alarm is triggered, the siren will just "blip" for 2 sec and the system will not call the central. In theory, the battery shouldnt be a factor as there is still electricity feeding the panel/siren

2) Under "normal use", the panic button can cause the horn to ring until we stop it (so the siren itself is not the problem)

3) When I cut the breaker, the system was able to call the central (so the communication is not the problem). I dont recall if the siren went on when I did this test (the wife thinks so...I can't repeat it now, its 11 PM)
Reply to
Euh

That's not necessarily true in all cases. You can't always equate a "hot" battery with "dead battery". Considering the alarm panel is prehistoric however, I'm thinking the OP should follow the advice of our resident Technosaur and turf the battery. I believe his problems will become a thing of the past (just like his panel). :-)

Reply to
Frank Kurz

That's funny. ( Technosaur) Did you just make that up?

Reply to
Jim

As I remember, those panels were very troublesome, keypads wore out fast, and didn't handle static electricity very well. We replaced all of them within 5 years of their introduction back in the 1980's

Jim Rojas Technical Manuals Online!

formatting link
Cornwall Lane Tampa, FL 33615-4604

813-884-6335
Reply to
Jim Rojas

RHC: I've been following this thread with some interest. You have to wonder why some people insist upon putting an old clunker like this back in service especially if it's going on line with the authorities. No one would try to keep a 386 computer in service today, especially in a business application, but they'll try to keep an old alarm clunker going forever. With panels and keypads available wholesale at less than $100, you really have to wonder!!!!

The other thing I still haven't figured out after 20 years in the business, is a customer will go out and spend $1000 on a big screen TV, but not a penny on a decent alarm.....go figure

Reply to
tourman

Yep. Fits you to a "T". :-)

Reply to
Frank Kurz

You can thank the ADT & Brinks of the world for making alarms seem worthless. When you give the farm away, and expect someone with shaky credit to make payments on time, or else...

Jim Rojas Technical Manuals Online!

formatting link
Cornwall Lane Tampa, FL 33615-4604

813-884-6335
Reply to
Jim Rojas

Cabling-Design.com Forums website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.