Attaching J-hooks and backboards to cinderblock walls?

A 3/8" hammer drill like the Skil Extratool to make drilling holes less difficult. Ear plugs will make your ears happy. Then some masonry anchors in various sizes. I'vwe never done backboards but I use #8 or #10 sheetemetal screws and the plastic anchors for panduit, and I think the carbide tipped drill is 3/16" or 1/4", whatever the package recommends.

I don't remember what the Skil cost, and anyway it was along time ago. Probably under $70 today. It works fine as a regular 3/8" drill at other times. Mine was a regular corded, but here's a cordless version for $100.

I'll never forget the time I had to borrow a half inch hammerdrill from the maintenance dept at work. They gave me a big old timer, think it was a Milwaukee, and a 18" long 3/4" bit. I got halfway thru a double thick cinderblock inside wall, and the drill bit got stuck. I put it in reverse, but it wouldn't budge. Damn! So I left the bit in the wall, removed the drill, and got off the ladder and packed up and went over to the maintenance dept to get some help. Turned out the old Milwaukee wasn't capable of putting out enough torque to do the job, and another decent drill took care of it. Whew! Thought we were gonna have to use dynamite to remove it!

I've never had to do those, but from my observations, it looks kind of scary in some of our bldgs. We have concrete floors and shooting a Hilti fastener into them seems like it's a good idea, but how do you keep the concrete chips from splattering down on you?

And in some of our bldgs we have the fireproofing sprayed on, and we're not sure if it has asbestos or not. The tests that have been run by a company my employer hired came back no problem, but we didn't trust these, and the union contracted with another company, just to make sure. I haven't heard what the latest is on those tests, but we have been told to not do work in the ceilings of certain bldgs, and they posted asbestos warning signs in some locations.

Big boss: "Can't you wear a mask when you work up in the ceiling?"

Me: "Yes, but these are plenums, and when I work up there and stir up the dust, it circulates thru the whole bldg, exposing *everyone* to the asbestos!"

Big boss: Gulp! "Oh... Uh...."

DUH...

Looks like two choices, Tapcon's or a Remington power tool.

Probably just depends on what speed you want.

Carl Navarro

If you have access, drill & anchor works well. Powder-actuated tools are quicker and work for hangers in plenum.

-- Robert

Of the various tools recommended, which are likely to produce the least debris and require the least amount of wall repair?

And can anybody give me enough info to Google the Remington tool that Carl suggested?

Thanks.

Frank Denman

Frank Denman Denman Systems (please remove the x from my email address)

-----------== Posted via Newsfeed.Com - Uncensored Usenet News ==----------

The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!

-----= Over 100,000 Newsgroups - Unlimited Fast Downloads - 19 Servers =-----

Well, if you want zero debris, then use lots of construction adhesive, and those Hilti or Ramset shoot-em-in nails. But the nails tend to split the concrete and chunks fall out. But if you're smart, you won't be around when the backboard is removed. ;-)

==----------

IMO the tapcons, with the drill are the neatest. They make a little dust and since you use a normal hand drill you can feel the material as you drill. A hammer drill will get you in faster, but you (or at least I) lose any feel for the material.

The keywords are remington powder tool. Home Depot sells 'em. A fast Google brought

Carl

Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover" posted for all of us....

That's why the BIG boss gets the BIG bux.

Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover" posted for all of us....

Never knew a Milwaukee tool that couldn't cut it. That's probably why they lent it to you; because the had beat the crap/life out it.