CBUS Automation Installation - FF main wiring completed

Hi all,

I am in the middle of a self build house and have all the electrical wiring fitted but no wall plates purchased yet however I am interested in the Automation.

A lot of people seem to be into the X10 and I thought of it myself for a while until I read somewhere that this new CBUS system was better.

The wiring is now already running to the walls and sockets and the plastering of the walls and cellings is ongoing.

For the CBUS to work correctly should the mains have being going to one main hub rather than each room switches and only the CAT5 to the rooms themselves. If thats the case then I afraid I have to throw the idea out of my head as a lot of work has gone in it like a tube station with all the cables running around my attic -).

As I have already got the metal boxes on the walls can the CBUS switch wall plates fit over them. (I'm located in Ireland so UK Horizontal Standard wall plates needed).

Will the one mains relay do all of the sockets or would more be better ?

Each power socket is a double socket and some switches have 4 switches eg at back door for lights.

I haven't examined the details two much as to how much it would cost me but the costs would worry me a bit as one could spend a lot between switches and sockets etc. I have 3 double sockets in each room of the 4 bedrooms 5 in the study 2 in the sitting room 4 in the living room, about 4 in the utility, 2 in the hallway and approx 5 in the kitchen. There's also going to be 4 in the attic in each corner but theres probably may not be needed for the time been. Thats over 30 odd sockets if I cover everything.

The voltage relays can be seen here which one is better or worse if I had to get a lot of them it could be pricy !!

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If I could get a list of the basic items to start off with it would be great or some good links.

Thanks very much

Michael

Reply to
Michael Farragher
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Hi, I have installed Clipsal CBUS throughout my home as well as interfacing it to a home automation system. It works a treat - X-10 is not a very reliable system and while my home automation also supports it and I use it for the odd table lamp, CBUS is vastly superior. Of course CBUS uses cat-5 cable for control and has a lwish data rate so star and parallel wiring for control work as long as no one segment is over a 1000 metres in length. Clipsal have just released a CBUS compatible wireless system for use in house which are already conventionally cabled and it is not practical to get a control cable to each face plate. I will write to your email with my email address if you have any other queries, Regards

Drew

I am in the middle of a self build house and have all the electrical wiring fitted but no wall plates purchased yet however I am interested in the Automation.

A lot of people seem to be into the X10 and I thought of it myself for a while until I read somewhere that this new CBUS system was better.

The wiring is now already running to the walls and sockets and the plastering of the walls and cellings is ongoing.

For the CBUS to work correctly should the mains have being going to one main hub rather than each room switches and only the CAT5 to the rooms themselves. If thats the case then I afraid I have to throw the idea out of my head as a lot of work has gone in it like a tube station with all the cables running around my attic -).

As I have already got the metal boxes on the walls can the CBUS switch wall plates fit over them. (I'm located in Ireland so UK Horizontal Standard wall plates needed).

Will the one mains relay do all of the sockets or would more be better ?

Each power socket is a double socket and some switches have 4 switches eg at back door for lights.

I haven't examined the details two much as to how much it would cost me but the costs would worry me a bit as one could spend a lot between switches and sockets etc. I have 3 double sockets in each room of the 4 bedrooms 5 in the study 2 in the sitting room 4 in the living room, about 4 in the utility, 2 in the hallway and approx 5 in the kitchen. There's also going to be 4 in the attic in each corner but theres probably may not be needed for the time been. Thats over 30 odd sockets if I cover everything.

The voltage relays can be seen here which one is better or worse if I had to get a lot of them it could be pricy !!

formatting link
If I could get a list of the basic items to start off with it would be great or some good links.

Thanks very much

Michael

Reply to
AJL

BE VERY SURE about whether your local building codes allow putting low voltage down the same conduit as AC supply. Most don't. Nor do they allow placement of low voltage devices in the same box as AC devices (without separation).

Heh, don't we all wish we knew enough ahead of time for this. Trouble is you end up with a HUGE amount of wire being pulled back a central location. At a cost much greater than most situations can justify. And also presenting a big physical installation problem. Pulling all that wire to a panel greatly increases the required space for the panel and all that wire.

It's really a tough set of compromises isn't it?

-Bill Kearney

Reply to
wkearney99

At the moment there is no wall plates on the sockets or switches just mains cable. I think I could run the CAT5 in the majority of places down the same conduits on the walls as the power cables are currently running to the rooms. Does one have to get these special switch sockets or is there a cheaper alternative. What the make up of the inside of these switches. I don't suppose the there is AC contacts and then CBUS contacts for each switch (say if you had 4 switches 16 contacts). If I had known sooner would it have been better or the proper way if all the AC wires were going to one place and the CAT5 CBUS coming from there to the rooms.

Regards,

Michael

Reply to
Michael Farragher

On Wed, 5 Jan 2005 13:55:34 -0000, "Michael Farragher" strung together this:

I would never run signalcommunications cable next to mains. I can assure it causes inteferenc problems. If you're going to install cat5 cables throughout the house then make sure that the cat5 is at least

50mm from mains cables through out.
Reply to
Lurch

Low voltage or mains AC voltage? The difference is doubtless QUITE important to local codes. In the US it's verboten to mix the two improperly.

12v is low voltage, 24v is low voltage, usually in DC not AC. Mains 240VAC or 110 isn't what most would consider low voltage in a residential or office setting.

Depending on what 'power' you're talking about though. Granted this is certainly going to be mitigated by what the local electrical codes allow. A great many do not allow placement of AC mains voltage alongside low voltage control signals. If the OP's region is one that does then, well, that's great. I sort of doubt it but anything's possible.

It's always a VERY good idea to consult with a local licensed electrician before installing *any* sort of wires. If only at the counter of a local equipment supply place. Bear in mind that building codes are there for more than just a electrical reasons. Proper installation of wiring isn't just to avoid fire or shock from electrical hazards. Badly installed wire presents other safety risks. Especially in the event of a fire caused by other reasons. Like risks for anyone trying to leave the building. You don't want poorly installed wiring burning off toxic fumes into air vents, coming down on top of a firefighter trying to save you or snagging on a door between you and certain death.

Actually having an electrician do the work is always a good idea but this stuff isn't something that a reasonably well-informaed DIY'er can't handle.

Reply to
wkearney99

IEEE regulations then?

Reply to
wkearney99

On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 11:26:39 +1100, Mick strung together this:

No, is cat5 used for mains round your way then, or is it control and communication cabling?

I'm not sure of the best way to explain this to you, running 12" of cat5 insuide a box for final connection to control equipment is acceptable. Running it the entire length of the house next to mains cables isn't particularly good practice.

We don't have 'codes'

Maybe you should understand, this is x-posted to uk.tech.home-automation, I am local to the UK, what with me being in it. I am offering local help to people who read the aforementioned group.

Reply to
Lurch

you have never isntalled a c-bus system then have you.

While that theory is correct, the use of the cat5 in a c-bus system requires you to run it in a circuit breaker box with all low voltage power.

This is why Clipsal recomend the use of their pink cat5, it has a sheath rating suitable for low voltage as opposed to that of standard cat5 which is not rated (ie to approx 600V for the pink stuff).

This does allow you to run it with your power cables and not violate any codes (as a previous post mentioned).

Please people, understand where a person lives and how the system works before you give advice on codes. If the OP does not understand what his local codes are then s/he should not be attempting the project without local help.

There is an excellent forum for all clipsal c-bus related stuff here

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Ask your questions here and you will get answers from the clipsal tech guys themselves.

As for C-bus, I use it and many others do as well (Uk and Astralia). Clipsal have released a wireless range that may suit what the OP requires for his "retrofit", although if the gyprock is not up yet then a full re-wire may be more beneficial. Yes it will cost you a little more but you will end up with a fully capable, wire c-bus system that is going to take you well into the 21st century

Mick

Reply to
Mick

On Wed, 5 Jan 2005 23:49:49 -0500, "wkearney99" strung together this:

Nope, try IEE.

Reply to
Lurch

On Wed, 5 Jan 2005 23:43:41 -0500, "wkearney99" strung together this:

Probably the best idea, most of what is on usenet is utter bollocks anyway and shouldn't be relied upon for anything of a serious nature.

ot round here you wouldn't, electrical wholesalers aren't meant to give out advice as they don't actually know how to install the stuff but by advising people they infer they do so technically can be held liable for improper guidelines if the customer gets it t*ts up.

Reply to
Lurch

under as3000

240Vac/dc-415Vac/dc is low voltage 24Vdc (or 32Vdc as used in the c-bus network) is extra low voltage.

Makes no difference if it is residential or not

horses for courses, depends on your standards

Reply to
Mick

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