Output power Linksys Router

Hello,

I would like to know what is the maximum Transmit power (Ximit) a Linksys wrt54gl router can handle before you shorten the lifetime or whether you should start using cooling. I have set mine now to 67 mW, but would like to increase it.

I also would like to know which setting is recommended and which setting is the most ideal (concerning range, noise and heat generation)

Greetings Oscar

Reply to
Oscar Dres
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Hi, First do the maath to see how much power increse is need to doulbe the signal strength on paper. If increasing range is he goal I'd rather dabble with higher gain antenna(does not cost any extra energy!)

Reply to
Tony Hwang

Been there. About 100mw is the limit for normal room temperatures. If you're going to run it outside, or have the router enclosed in an airtight box, somewhat less. I've seen them smoke the power amplifier chip when run at 250mw, which is the absolute maximum. There's also considerable distortion in the AM part of the xmit signal at much over

150mw.

You can probably go to 100mw without much risk. Note that some of the

2-wire wireless routers are shipping set to 400mw tx power.

Add xmit distortion as another criteria. I would say that 100mw is a good compromise.

Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

The radio adapters available in the market from AP manufacturers like Linksys have a maximum value of TX-power. I am about 99.9% sure that the WRT54GL's max power is 100mW (others like D-Link, Netgear etc fix it to 30mW).

At a 100mW TX-power, you shouldn't have cooling issues, unless if you are installing this under abnormal conditions like sunny outdoors, or in an outdoor enclosure without ventilation.

Also, the heating issues arise due to the processor performance, and only to a negligible extent the 802.11/WLAN radio.

Hope that helps c24 /

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Reply to
c24

The OP should also understand that the increase between 67mw and 100mw is going to have a negligible effect on the performance of his network.

Peter Crosland

Reply to
Peter Crosland

Since it hardly ever gets below 10 degrees in north Texas, heating isn't a problem as out access points and subscriber units generate 'nuff heat by themselves.

The summer is a whole different problem. I simple aluminum or fiberglass sunshade works wonders for keeping the temperature down.

A cooling fan to vent the hot air out is just one more mechanical piece to fail, so convention cooling with vent holes would work. Granted you have the movement of moist air that could condense on the inside, but the heat generated tends to keep it away.

Reply to
DTC

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