Newbie Advice needed

If you believe your residence uses three phase electrical power, you should hire an electrician to install the coupler/repeater. Most homes receive 240 volt split phase service from a 240v utility transformer with a center tapped secondary winding. Read the labeling on your electrical service meter. You might notice the words "single phase".

If you don't understand how electrical power is distributed in your home, you can create an unsafe (life threatening) condition with "do-it-yourself" modifications.

Reply to
Jack Ak
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Reply to
Free

Based upon the questions you have asked in this posting and others, you should hire an electrician to install the coupler/repeater.

Reply to
Jack Ak

Reply to
Free

The "tucked in the back" wire is white, unattached to the switch, and is in addition to a bare ground wire that is connected to the switch. Is it still likely that it is ground, rather than the hoped-for neutral?

Asuming it is a neutral wire, and I therefore have the option of using standard switches, is it better to use a standard switch or a "RX" model meant for installations where there is no neutral wire present?

I feel like I must misunderstand the issue, because I >> To my surprise, I pulled a couple of switches and did find a neutral

Reply to
Free

I hope I don't sound like a SmartHome geek, but an easy solution is to install their coupler/repeater on your dryer 220V outlet. These come in a couple of different configurations, depending on your dryer outlet. But, I installed one in about 20 seconds, and it works great. All of my problems with modules not responding to X10 signals have disappeared. They also sell a coupler only, using a similar dryer outlet configuration. This is quite a bit cheaper. But, the coupler/repeater has the advantage of repeating the signal should one of your more electrically isolated modules not respond to the original X10 command.

Check out the following link:

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And they aptly mention "no electrician needed."

Craig

Reply to
ceedub

That sounds like it's a neutral wire but you can't be certain without testing it.

I'm not sure. The "Linc" series has been the subject of numerous complaints here. Unfortunately, so has almost every other brand of X10-type devices.

I don't know how common it is, but I've read posts from several folks who made the same mistake.

Reply to
Robert L. Bass

I think Jack is speaking from the standpoint of keeping you safe. A residential electrical panel is not complex but a mistake can be costly if not deadly. The installation is fairly easy if you know what's what in the panel. If opening the panel will be a first time experience, at least enlist the help of a friend who's familiar with what's inside.

Reply to
brobin

You're welcome. As to the question of whether to DIY or hire an electrician, I disagree with some of the other gentleman. These devices are neither compex not difficult to install. You DO need to exercise extreme care installing anything high voltage but with a little patience you can quickly learn how to do it safely.

IME the best place for a signal bridge or repeater is at the breaker panel. I'm not fond of installing system components behind the electric stove or clothes dryer. Besides, most of the time it's easier at the panel box. I would install the bridge in a small junction box or auxiliary cabinet connected directly to the breaker panel via a short length of EMT.

Due to the variety of devices and breaker panels I won't go into detail on the operation here. Study the instructions sent with the device; spend an hour at the library reading one of the DIY guides to installing or servicing a breaker panel and you'll be on your way.

Whatever you do, be sure you throw the main breaker off before you even remove the cover. Note that in many panels there are live connections even after you turn off the main breaker so be careful what you touch.

If you're uncomfortable doing this sort of thing by all means hire a pro. But if you like to tinker and don't mind spending a little time learning the ropes you'll save a little money and gain a little knowledge.

Reply to
Robert L. Bass

Reply to
Free

I have looked at that repeater and I orginally planned on using it, but I found that the dryer is pushed up against the plug and adding the repeater would push the dryer out by several inches. This violated the WAF. I considered just relocating this outlet slightly out-of-the-way, but when I found the hardwired version, it seemed just as easy to install it. Then, in my logical progression, I figured if it would work at the dryer location, it would work anywhere I had a drop of the 220V wires, which led me to look at the subpanel and stove location.

But, please do offer any other "SmartHome Geek" suggestions!

"ceedub" wrote:

Reply to
Free

Because you don't exhibit basic knowledge of electrical "terms-of-art". Not understanding the difference between ground and neutral wiring may result in unsafe and potentially fatal conditions.

You asked whether " the circuits off the auxiliary panel are somehow isolated from the main panel and its circuits." This is one example from your postings which reveal lack of knowledge. Describing two hot and neutral wires as "three phases" is another example.

Here are several self test questions... Why do the two wires from a wall switch to a lamp fixture use white and black insulation? Which color wire carries the current?

What gauge wire should be used with a 20 amp circuit breaker? Why does an oven or range top use three conductors plus a green grounding wire?

You need not post the answers, but think carefully about making changes to your electrical service if you have any doubt about the correct answers.

...

Reply to
Jack Ak

I think you mistake my approach (asking deferential questions and not presuming to know areas outside my expertise) with being an imbecile. In any of my many amateur electrical jobs, I scrupulously have insured good grounding and have never used the ground in place of the neutral.

If this is a stupid question, then I plead guilty on this one. To further cement my ignorance, I still don't know the answer, although your reply does give me an idea :). I do not know if the subpanel is somehow electrically isolated from the main panel in a way that interferes with PLC signals. I gues not?

Completely guilty. I took a phrase that was vaguely familiar to me from a past life and applied it wrongly. But I do understand the fundamental concept of using two hot wires and a neutral to provide flexible 240v or 120v power in a mixed application - like most residences in the U.S.

Yea! I pass (66% is passing, right? In my defense, I am not laying any new circuits so I don't think I have to know off-the-top-of-my-head what gauge wire is needed for a 20amp circuit. If I do, I will look it up). Seriously, this is useful to me and I thank you.

Reply to
Free

I am not an EE, a working electrician, and I obviously don't do this for a living, but I do have some clue as to what is in a panel. Once upon a time, I added a breaker for my pool lights and - surprise! - no one has been electrocuted in the pool :).

So, I am will>> Thank you, Mr. Bass.

Reply to
Free

To answer your question about isolation directly - no, there is no isolation between panels. Everything on the customer side of the street transformer (including the neighbors) are common.

Reply to
brobin

In my new house I specified a neutral in every box to support the switches. It's not a requirement by code and serves no purpose for a switched leg using a dumb toggle switch. Here's why you care and want the neutral: Any X10 based switch needs a path to neutral even when the switch is off so that it can remain active and "hear" the X10 signal commanding it to turn on. Without the neutral the signal path is completed through a trickle current through the bulb's filament. This works well most of the time but is not as reliable as a wired path to neutral. Without the neutral the bulb's filament can be a variable particularly as it ages and at low wattages. Do NOT use ground as a neutral - it is a clear code violation and can be dangerous. Code requires that neutral and ground be common ONLY at the service panel.

Reply to
brobin

If you go with a coupler/repeater at a panel and you have 1 main and 1 sub panel, it is generally recommended that you put the coupler in the subpanel.

m

Free wrote:

Reply to
Mitch

The neutral is not switched. It is a white wire and will be wirenutted to other white wires. May I suggest you pick up a copy of a basic wiring guide as can be found at Home Depot or any bookseller? You need to get grounded (pun intended) with a basic understanding of electrical wiring to keep yourself from making costly or even dangerous mistakes.

Reply to
brobin

As the center of all things electrical, the service panel is the desired location and will provide the best result. However, any 220 volt location will suffice and should work almost as well as the service panel location.

Reply to
brobin

Reply to
Free

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