installing ethernet RJ45 and faceplate

and it seemed to work well enough.

Hi Jim;

The RJ45 IDC jacks require a 110 punchdown tool (not included). A screwdriver will not do. No offence meant, but ethernet does not work like an analog phone line; you can't loop it from one jack to another. Unless, of course, you use the orange and green wires for one jack and blue and brown for the other. Or you could run a wire from the second faceplate to your router, so you have separate cables (best solution if it's an easy run.

Regards,

Neil

Hi Neil,

I'm not trying to loop it. I want to make an extension. The wiring will go from the Switch to faceplate 1 to faceplate 2 to the Wireless access point. It would be the same as if I ran a single Ethernet cable direct from the Switch to the Wireless access point.

So with this kind of wiring scheme, I'm not sure how to connect the two faceplates. Would it be a cross-over or straight through?

right now I'm using straight through. So I'll try a cross-over next and see if that does it.

Of course, I think I will need a punchdown tool. It's funny, I found this punchdown tool

it looks just like the bit that I am using. Is a punchtool a kind of razor blade? Or is it a blunt tool? I should think that as long as the wires get down into the slots on the RJ45 receptacvle that it should work. Does the punchdown tool do something else to the wires besides simply pushing the wire into the slot?

Thanks!

Jim

Neil J. Hubbard wrote:

> and it seemed to work well enough.

What you want to make sure of is to have the wiring scheme of 568B on both jacks. On the jack there is a color scheme one is marked A and the other B. Actually either will work but I prefer B and use it all the time. This will give you a straight thru configuration.

As for the punch down tool it would be best to use one for a good quick connection. However if you are not doing more than two jacks it is not cost effective. The punch down tool looks similar to the tool that you have shown except that it has a sharp blade on one side that trims off the wire at the block to make it neat. Also the 110 punch down tool as a thinner center portion that will push the wire between the connection wedge. If you are using the wider tool it may be spreading the connection wedge so much that it is not cutting the insulation on the wire thus not connecting with the conductor.

You may want to start over by stripping the outer sheath about 4"-5" and then un-twist and straighten the pairs. Then lay out the pattern being sure to follow the 568B configuration pattern. SOLID BLUE to SOLID BLUE and WHITE with BLUE to the WHITE with BLUE and so on for all the pairs. Depending on your wire and its colors this can some times be a little challenging. Place the end of the sheath as close to the jack as you can and start laying in the wires.

Once they are all in the proper position pull each individual wire down into the slot. You will see that (if you look closely) that it will make contact with the small wedge connector. As the wire is pushed or pulled into the wedge it will start to cut into the insulation and separate. If you have not damaged it with your tool it should grip it tight.

If you have a small screwdriver with a thin blade you can apply pressure on the wire only and push it into the wedge. Once all wires are in and secure cut off the excess and you should be done.

There is a possibility that by using you first tool you may have damaged the wedge and the jack is trashed. Except it as payment for your education.

If you are using a switch then be sure to use straight thru patch cords.

Hope the above helps. Let me know if what I wrote is confusing. From my location it looks very clear but sometimes........................................

Good luck.

Les

> > and it seemed to work well enough.

> and it seemed to work well enough.

He said he was using a notched screwdriver. That's not as bad as a regular screwdriver in that it can be guided down more reliably. But I agree. Even a cheap punch down tool would be better.

By that I assume you're talking about splitting pairs and using the second quartet of wires to carry another "channel."

If I read the poster correctly (and that's always in doubt!) he could just string a long patch cord between the floors but he's trying to make it look nice. By using the faceplate jacks on floor one and two as the middle segment of a long patch cord I assume he's going to plug into an open jack on the router. If that's the case, all he has to do is follow the same color scheme on each jack so that the patch cord free end of the patch cords plugged into each outlet are essentially one long patch cord.

I think when he said "two outlets" he was referring to a single outlet on each floor. Your advice holds true, however, if he want to plug something else into the router and switch on floor two, although I suppose with a WAP that might be moot.

-- Bobby G.

Hi Jim,

Wire it all straight-through, using the "B" standard as indicated on the RJ45 jack.

I suspect your tool is damaging the contacting blades inside the jack. Home Depot has a plastic punch down tool, I've seen it for sale for a couple bucks. They also come included with the 10 packs of RJ45 jacks.

E. Lee Dickinson Entertainment Design and Technology

and it seemed to work well enough.

That's an excellent point that I overlooked. He may indeed may have it wired "correctly" in terms of which wire is where, but not "well." It's very likely that the insulation was not pierced and there's no conductivity. I've on occasion had to use needle nose pliers to push down a wite. It's ugly, it's not good practice but it's better than nothing, especially if you don't have a punchdown tool handy. This is where one of those little 8 LED testers is very helpful.

-- Bobby G.

HI, Thank you all for your responses. You all have been very helpful. Robert and Able were right in that I may have damaged the RJ45 receptacles by not using the right tool. Once I was sure I had the wiring correct, I went around and made sure each wire was pushed into the wedge. On one end I had to start over by cutting the end of the cable and striiping off the outter insulation.

For right now the connection seems good, in fact I'm writing this response from my laptop. But I will definately want to replace those jacks soon, and next time I will make sure I use a a punchdown tool.

Thanks everyone!!

Jim

Able gets credit for calling it right. I only get partial credit for realizing it *after* he mentioned it. :-)

It's good to be able to know how to improvise, too. Congrats.

-- Bobby G.

Thanks for the credit. It is good to know I got this one right. So far this year I made 2,345,726 mistakes and it is only June 25th.

Congrats on getting it all working. And yes, get some new jack when you can. You will be glad you did.

Later,

Les

This kit is an excellent value that will give you everything you need to install and maintain cables and jacks at your home. For $80, the price of a punchdown tool alone, you canNOT beat this kit.

keep one of these sets at my 2nd home and one in my car for helping friends.

That *IS* an awful lot of useful stuff in one place. The only thing I'd add is a handset for phone work. Know where to get a good yet relatively inexpensive one of those? My tracer's got a phone jack and a speaker with an "on hook" control, but that's not enough for phone work - can't dial any numbers. It would be nice to have a second, "ready to go" bag, though, for various off-site visits.

As a complete unrelated aside, I found myself humming the tune of long dead TV show called "Hawaiian Eye" today - part of a group of formulaic TV shows I grew up with about geographical diverse detectives. You're probably old enough to remember them. IIRC, they were "Hawaiian Eye, Bourbon Street Beat, SurfSide Six and 77 Sunset Strip and maybe even a few more that have escaped me. I think part of the reason I like home automation is that there's a lot of detective work to do. Just today I finally tracked down the source of a nagging noise problem and it really took some investigation because it was an intermittent sort of issue.

I've been humming a lot of old songs lately. I think as the neural nets are just about to lose their info, the memories get jostled. Ah, old age. It just keeps NOT getting better!

-- Bobby G.

Yeah, I remember the old tunes and jingles a bit TOO well too. If I were going to buy a new butt set right now for occassional use, I'd snap this one up off ebay:

RESENT WITH CORRECT URLS:

Yeah, I remember the old tunes and jingles a bit TOO well too. If I were going to buy a new butt set right now for occasional use, I'd snap this one up off eBay:

have several butt sets already. The oldest is a BECO solid rubber setwith a small dial with raised pins instead of finger holes. Still works butis in my old phone "Museum" now. I also have an old NT rotary dial butt set,a Harris touch-tone one, a French made speakerphone model and an el cheapotouch tone one that I keep with the kit. If you want to go that route, whichis fine for most of what you'll need to do, you can pick one up for $20from: ,_AS-IS_.htmlThe cord has been cut off but you can easily replace it with a new cordthat's readily available on eBay for about $10."Robert Green" wrote inmessagenews:nv2dnb5ztfG8cj3ZnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@rcn.net...> Bruce R wrote:>>>This kit is an excellent value that will give you everything you need to>>install and maintain cables and jacks at your home. For $80, the price of>a>> punchdown tool alone, you canNOT beat this kit.>>> That *IS* an awful lot of useful stuff in one place. The only thingI'dadd> is a handset for phone work. Know where to get a good yetrelatively> inexpensive one of those? My tracer's got a phone jack and aspeaker with> an "on hook" control, but that's not enough for phone work -can't dialany> numbers. It would be nice to have a second, "ready to go"bag, though,for> various off-site visits.>> As a complete unrelated aside, Ifound myself humming the tune of longdead> TV show called "Hawaiian Eye"today - part of a group of formulaic TVshows> I grew up with aboutgeographical diverse detectives. You're probably old> enough to rememberthem. IIRC, they were "Hawaiian Eye, Bourbon Street> Beat, SurfSide Six and77 Sunset Strip and maybe even a few> more that have escapedme. I think part of the reason I like home> automation is that there's alot of detective work to do. Just today I> finally tracked down the sourceof a nagging noise problem and it really> took some investigation because itwas an intermittent sort of issue.>> I've been humming a lot of old songslately. I think as the neural netsare> just about to lose their info, thememories get jostled. Ah, old age. It> just keeps NOT gettingbetter!>> --> Bobby G.>>>>>

I remember the tunes for a lot of them, but the words have flown along with that sweet bird of youth.

have several butt sets already.

That's a nice set, but it's beyond my price range for a just a nice-to-have item.

I have one of those, too but it's not in my museum yet! The rubber looks a little cheesy now but I would bet that it could and did survive more than one drop from a telephone pole. Little metal belt loop, cloth covered leads, and a monitor switch that allowed you to listen in without making any clicks on the line. The dialer is a sheet of metal stamped with the edges turned upwards to make a fairly sharp little dialing detents. It's still in my phone tool box although I now use a cheap, one piece touch-tone phone to do most of my testing. Most times, I just "selfdial" to see if I hear a busy tone to make sure I am working on the line that I think I am working on.

What's a GS Key?

Still, at $20 it looks like a very useful tool and soldering new leads on something is at least within my limited soldering skill set.

As for Ebay: The last two items I bought from Ebay were allegedly mint (and bid accordingly) but both came with serious damage that should have been obvious to the seller since I had asked them to check that specific area/function and they reported back no problems.

So now MIB means only a couple of serious flaws and "as-is" is seeming to become more a code word for "doesn't work at all." Sermon over. I'm steamed because the latest purchase has a battery door whose contacts are completed corroded and were dripping in wet, (actually slimy) battery juice.

Thanks for the pointers, Bruce I'll look around Ebay some to see if I can snag one that's within my price and quality range.

"Johnny Yuma was a Rebel He roamed through the west"

(Those are the only *words* I remember but I know there were more! - Ever wonder how we know we've forgotten something? Shouldn't we just have just forgotten it entirely? Wait, wait, there's more! Those neurons aren't really dead yet! )

"Johnny Yuma, the Rebel He wandered alone. He crossed this land, this (restless, tested, reckless, feckless, Western???) land With a hmmm and a hmmmm and hhhmmm and ding and dong and warf and a whoop and a la la la. The Rebel, The Rebel away goes the Rebel"

(-:

-- Bobby G.

This kit is an excellent value that will give you everything you need to>>

install and maintain cables and jacks at your home. For $80, the price of>

a>> punchdown tool alone, you canNOT beat this kit.>>

> That *IS* an awful lot of useful stuff in one place. The only thing I'dadd> is a handset for phone work. Know where to get a good yet relatively> inexpensive one of those? My tracer's got a phone jack and a speaker with> an "on hook" control, but that's not enough for phone work - can't dialany> numbers. It would be nice to have a second, "ready to go" bag, though,for> various off-site visits.>> As a complete unrelated aside, I found myself humming the tune of longdead> TV show called "Hawaiian Eye" today - part of a group of formulaic TVshows> I grew up with about geographical diverse detectives. You're probably old> enough to remember them. IIRC, they were "Hawaiian Eye, Bourbon Street> Beat, SurfSide Six and 77 Sunset Strip and maybe even a few> more that have escaped me. I think part of the reason I like home> automation is that there's a lot of detective work to do. Just today I> finally tracked down the source of a nagging noise problem and it really> took some investigation because it was an intermittent sort of issue.>> I've been humming a lot of old songs lately. I think as the neural netsare> just about to lose their info, the memories get jostled. Ah, old age. It> just keeps NOT getting better!>> --> Bobby G.>>>>

>

I bought one of those $20 butt sets and I think you'll be more than pleased with the value. It's perfect for occasional use and not a piece of junk by any means. There are terminals inside for attaching a new cord set - no soldering required. I reused the grommet and bought a pair of test leads with angled tips for a 66 block and a bed of nails. 'All' seems to be out of the cordsets right now but they're on ebay pretty cheap - or you can just use a piece of speaker/lamp cord with alligator clips.

The 'GS' button is for use with Ground Start trunks - something you needn't be concerned with unless you're working on larger PBX systems. In a PBX, trunks (lines) can be used for both inbound and outbound calls. To make an outbound call you would typically dial 9 for dial tone and then place the call. The problem is that an incoming call may be coming in on that trunk at the same time you dialed 9 (glare). It used to be that there could be up to a 4 second delay between the connection and the start of the first ring so glare could occur during that 4 second window since the PBX wouldn't recognize the incoming call until the ringing started (aka loop start). You've probably experienced this yourself some years ago where you've picked up the phone to make a call and someone is already there but the ringing hadn't started yet (modern CO equipment applies the active ring cycle on connection). To solve the problem the telco offers Ground Start trunks which provide a momentary 'flash' or 'wink' of ground to one side of the line. As soon as the incoming connection is made the ground is momentarily applied and the PBX seizes the line as an incoming call. An outbound call is started by applying a momentary ground to draw dial tone.

On the butt set, one side of the GS button is connected to one of the line terminals and the other side to a third (green) wire in the cordset that is clipped to an earth ground. To test the trunk, clip tip & ring accordingly and momentarily press the GS button to draw dial tone. Most butt sets don't have that feature so you'll see the tech use a piece of jumper wire attached to ground with the other end used to briefly touch one of the line clips.

More than you care to know is here:

Bottom line: you'll never need a GS button for residential work.

wrote:

OK - say no more - SOLD! I didn't realize you had purchased one. That makes it quite a different ballgame. You're part of a small (but growing) number of folks here whose recommendations can be taken to the bank.

No soldering? Might even buy two! (-: That big black rubber job really need to be retired.

I have test leads coming out of the wazoo. IDC, little hooks, sewing needle probes stuck in dowels and shrinkwrap. I'll figure it out.

I tried searching Google for GS and came up with nada. Thanks for that information. Where did you learn all this stuff, Bruce?

That would seem to be the case. I wonder if that's the reason they got remaindered? I assume the cord was cut for the same reason they used to notch LP records that were promos, etc. - to make them unsalable as normal retail.

I did order two, BTW, because there's a neighbor's kid who's help me run cable. Probably couldn't find a better gift for $20. Thanks again!

-- Bobby G.

After 35 years (and counting!) in the telephone business I picked up a tidbit or two. I used to design Telecom PBX and data cabling systems for Fortune 500 companies, large hotels/resorts, universities, hospitals and even a couple of National Parks. Before I sold it in '92, I had grown my business to a 60 person telecom consulting firm with 3 offices and projects as far away as Asia and Moscow.

Perhaps, but more likely because telcos and other pro field people need more features to test DSL & CID. Some of the butt sets in use today are really computer terminals. Or maybe the cordsets had special connectors like testboard plugs. The GS button is still useful for GS PBX trunks which are still in use but rapidly being replaced by T1 interfaces to bring in the trunks digitally. Cutting the cords was definitely to make them surplus items - much to our delight!

I'm sure he'll be thrilled. I was when I got my first one.

Well, that explains a lot. Especially why you have more butt sets than anyone I know!

I can't complain. CID features would be nice. I might still end up getting a one piece corded phone for that kind of test.

I had a friend who only gave his kids tools for birthdays and Christmas. Might sound cruel, but he sure turned out to be a very capable and handy kid.

-- Bobby G.

Cruel? I can't think of anything I'd rather get!