Cat-6 Installation Advice

I have recently run cat-6 around the house. And I suggest these:

- Don't use the jacks and DIY-plugs from lanshack.com.

Somehow, when I insert a plug (their plug or a plug from other source) into a jack from them, the plug cannot click. This means the plug is only being held with fiction. I don't know why it is like this. Otherwise, their jack is really good; it has "cat-6" printed on it, very nice; and it has a way to tie down the cable onto the jack.

I cannot use their DIY-plugs to make a patch cable. Didn't matter how hard I try, I got zero success. If you want to try your luck, I can mail them to you as long as you pay for the return-mail. But I don't recommend this.

I suggest to get the jacks and DIY-plugs from action-electronics.com. The only warning is that when you trim wires from a DIY-plug (this is the last step to make a DIY-patch cable using their DIY-plug), you should use something like a nail clipper to trim them instead of a utility knief or other cutter. The point is to get a clean cut. Otherwise, crushed wires may cross each other and short. Or, you can order pre-made patch cables.

I use a roll of cat-6 cable from lanshack and jacks and plugs from action-electronics. The result is good. I can get gigabit speed according to my LinkSys gigabit switch.

- You can get a low cost cable-tester that is for cat-5. We use it to test continuity. Basically, we can get other tools from a retail store instead of ordering them online; the price can actually cheaper this way.

- The bare patch panel idea shown in lanshack sample home network is good. I use their bare patch panel. But I don't use their coupling-jacks. I use normal jacks instead -- cheaper this way and are easily available.

- Use two jacks in each outlet for networking instead of just one. You may need two devices in the location where the outlet is: One is a PC, another one may be a network media player, such as a MediaVP or a Microsoft Media Center Extender.

- While you have the wall open, you may take the opportunity to add other cables and jacks:

Two phone cables: One for voice, another one for a set-top box. You may add the third phone jack if you want to output SkyPe VoIP phone connection from a PC in the basement to the other part of the house (Honestly I haven't tried this yet). The alternative is to use cordless phones to connect to a SkyPe device in the basement.

Two coax cables: One for video input from satellite dish, or from cable company, or from antenna dish. Another one for video output from a dual-tunner receiver (such as the one from Dish Network), or from another video source (such as a shared DVD player).

Put all these cables together inside a tude, and leave one or two strings inside the tude for pulling other cables in the future.

- Buy ready made central panel (a box) from Home Depot for all the cables to home run into it. This is neater this way than using a piece of plywall. I am currently using a piece of plywall and a home-made shelf to house everything. But I figure buying a ready-made one is probably saves me time and is much neater. The only reservation is that I probably want the box to be deep enough to put a SOHO style router horizontally or at 45-degree angle then I can check the LED in front of the router.

Good luck.

Jay Chan

Your home is non-plenum so no need for plenum rated cable. 500' spools are available and typically cost about 70% of the cost of a 1000' spool. If you run the cable 6" above ground and the electrical is 12" you have a problem. Keep parallel runs at least 12" apart and when crossing a power line do so at a 90 degree angle. If you're going to make your own patch cords use EZ-RJ45s. They are the best thing since sliced bread as you don't have to trim the conductors like you do with standard plugs. Best cable tacker is the PowerFast brand, you won't knick wires with the staples.

From:scary snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com scary snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com

I already have an RJ45 crimper. Can I use this with the EZRJ45s? or do I have to buy the EZRJ45 special crimper?

thanks

-jennifer

You can use your existing crimper and then trim off the leads with snips. The only thing the EZ crimper does differently is trim the leads automatically. After you've used the EZ RJ45s one time, you'll never go back to the old style. That and the Powerfast cable tacker are my new favorite items. I also like the RJ45 jacks offered by

From: snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com

Right.

I sell cable in 500 and 1000 foot lengths.

Not so far.

Agreed about crossing at 90º angles but short (< 2 ft) parallel runs won't cause problems. The only thing that might be inconvenient is running patches directly below electrical plugs. I like to keep data, phone and power cables at standard outlet heights but that's just my preference. YMMV.

Personally, I prefer to buy premade patch cords. They're usually reliable and cost so little that it's not worth my time to make my own.

But I don't see any Cat6 on your website?

Hi Bruce, Mind if I pick your brain a bit?

Are EZ crimps as much of a leap over regular RJ45's as Push'N'Seals are over regular crimp connectors for RG cable? I've been looking at the model Worthington sells as:

Platinum Tools 100008 EZ-RJ45 Combo Pack 24 Connectors and Tool $68

Is that a good deal? Can I also use this tool to terminate RJ11 cables for phone use?

What would you recommend to test the cables once they're in place? I've looked at this device

TUTP300 Description: This cable run tester was designed specifically for Home Networking and Home Automation professionals. It can test and locate CATV, telephone, audio, security, and network cabling. The large, easy to read display shows the pass or fail status of each test. The Resi-Tester has a built-in tone generator and the wire test remote is stored right in the tester. Up to 20 cables can be identified and wiremapped using optional identifier sets.

But I'm not sure it will tell me anything other than continuity.

How does the Powerfast compare to insulated cable tackers? Lots of cabling guides that I've read aren't keen on stapling cable so that the metal staple is directly against the cable jacket. The theory is that in time vibration and settling can cause the cable to pull and the staple to cut into the jacket. As I person who has managed to put a CT-10 staple right some network cable (right at the worst place possible, I'm interested in ways to keep that from happening again. That incident turned out to be at least a $100 time waste as well as 9.0 on the Richter "pissed off at myself" scale. I've found some interesting tools here:

I've already got an insulated stapler for RG59U and CAT5, and like the Powerfast, the staple legs are much wider than the actual cable, but I'd really like something better to fasten RG6QS that the nail-in clips I'm currently using.

Do you have a part number? I searched on RJ45 and all I could find were rows and rows of 7 RJ8-25S-BLK (Catalog Page#: 22) MOD ADAPTER,RJ45-DB25F,BLACK in different colors and a few other items, but no jacks.

Amen! When I first started running video cables, I used twist-on connectors. Then, when I got tired of leaking signals and connectors that pulled off, I got a hex crimper. Finally, after reading message after message singing the praises of Push'N'Seal I finally bit the bullet. Why I EVER messed around with anything else, I will never know. Perfect watertight connections almost every time.

I have one other question. I've seen Push'N'Seal connectors for RCA and BNC connectors. They're quite expensive and I would have to buy a new compression tool to use them. Are they better than using a F to BNC and F to RCA adapters? Costwise, they're really about the same.

The only difference I can see is that when it's time to rewire it would be cheaper to cut the 37 cent "Type F" Push'N'Seal off the cable and redo it than to cut off the $2+ BNC and RCA Push'N'Seals.

Another upside to plain "F" connectors is that I can use right angle F adapters to enable me to keep equipment closer to the back wall than I could with a straight-in run of RG6QS. A serious downside I can see is that the more adapters you have, the more opportunity there is for signal leakage.

Thanks!

-- Bobby G.

That's what I thought. I already have a Fox & hound tracer.

Yes, that's a nice kit. I'll see what EBay has to offer, though. I already have duplicates of many items in the kit. I probably don't need triplicates until I own more houses!

I suspect that cable penetration is more of a problem in the regular sort of cable staple where it's the jacket that actually stops the staple. As you've noted, the Powerfast staple shape pretty much insures that heel of the staple will be stopped by the wooden surface, not the cable jacket.

I went the insulated route because where I worked we had issues with net cables being squashed by normal cable stables. Took an expensive TDR and expensive techs to find the bad spot. It looks to me like Powerfast staples allow less-skilled operators to perform professional looking work, so I am all for that, since I am, without any doubt, a less-skilled operator. :-)

Good. I've been going nuts over which connectors to choose. I'm partial to the new universal system that F-Conns has:

Thanks,

-- Bobby G.

The EZ crimps are indeed to RJ45's what Snap 'n Seals are to coax. Try a pack and see for your self. You don't have to buy the tool until you're sure. Your standard tool will be fine but you'll just have to snip the ends off with nippers - takes all of 2 seconds. Testing is the same for any patch cable. If your just doing this for your home and not for a living, any 8LED tester will do th job. They're on ebay for uunder $20. If you want the deal of the century, buy this kit for $80:

The Worthington price for the EZ RJ$% kit seems OK. Check this place and ebay too:

As for push 'n seal or snap 'n seal connectors, I love those things. I let what I'm connecting to guide me on what connector to use but generally I use the F connectors for video and adapters to BNC or RCA if needed (like for CCTV cams). I use rightangle adapters all the time. They only add about 1db of loss and no leakage.

Here's a page link to the horeshoe connectors:

From:Robert Green ROBERT snipped-for-privacy@YAH00.COM

Same here, Bruce. We marked all of our cables that way for many years. Most tags, sticky labels, etc. eventually fall off. Sharpie will last until Jesus returns.

Sorry about the misspellings - too much wine at dinner. For labeling anything but a black cable I use a Sharpie in at least two places. Never fails me. If the cable is black I use a write-on label that wraps around with a clear cover.

From:Robert Green ROBERT snipped-for-privacy@YAH00.COM