Taking it point by point...
True, the fewer connections, the less number of points of failure. But in the big picture, it creates other more likely points of failure, i.e.unplugging the wrong cable because the ports on the switch are hard to label. With 24 stations, there WILL be moves and changes as time goes by. Considering how much he's paying for 24 cable drops...an additional $100 for a patch panel and patch cables is insignificant.
A properly terminated 8-conductor modular plug on solid UTP cable is very reliable. * Use a quality ratcheting crimp tool that release after the wires are fully seated. Over crimping is the second most likely "failure" as it pushes the tines out the other end of the plug and they'll hang up when inserting the jack into a ethernet port, or worse..hang up when you try to pull the jack out. The first most likely point of failure is using a $20 crimp tool is that pivots down on the jack instead of a flat push, leaving the tines closest to the pivot point over inserted and the last ones under inserted.
- Use the proper jack. A single tine jack for stranded conductors is a disaster with solid conductors. You need a three offset tine jack. They do make jacks for round and flat cable where the round jack has a oval strain relief crimp, but considering how many commercial made patch cables I've seen using round cable and a flat crimp point...I don't see it making a difference.
- Leave enough jacket inside the jack so the the strain relief crimp properly holds it.
- Match the tool brand to the connector. This is a personal observation here, so take it for what its worth. Personally I use the Ideal brand RATCHETING crimp tool ( from Home Depot and Lowes) with Ideal brand crimp connectors. I used my Ideal tool once on some Burndy (?) RJ-11 connectors and they didn't seat properly in a telephone cabinet, switching to Ideal RJ-11 connectors fixed it. Furthermore the Ideal connectors are universal and can be used with both stranded and solid conductors.
Some people say that a solid conductor patch cable is less reliable than a stranded one. Perhaps the logic is a solid conductor will pass movement down into the tines' connection and work loose. Usually they base this on personal experience, but considering that I've seen both solid and stranded patch cables, I don't think it makes a difference.
On small jobs of only a few computers, I've often plugged the house cable drop directly into the hub's ports. On larger jobs I use a patch panel as it is easier to reassign cables (I often talk the customer into more cables than necessary if they indicate they may build out more office spaces or add more computers in a particular office. They see the logic in spending a little bit of money now instead of later).
12 port patch panels usually run about $70. Personally I use the Levitron modular patch panel assembly. Its a simple 12 hole metal plate ($20) the fits in a standard 66M block 89D bracket ($4). Pricing for 12 ports comes out to around $60. Each house cable terminates into a standard CAT5 8-conductor jack, the same jack used in the wall plates. Again this is just my personal preference.To paraphrase the infamous line from "The Graduate" movie with Dustin Hoffman and Ann Bankcroft, "Ben - I have just one word for you - PLASTICS!", I'll say...VELCRO! Use it instead of nylon wire ties to dress you cables...its easy to "re-enter" without risking cutting cable when you cut a wire tie. Use it to mount cables on the backboard or along a wall or base board...I use a small wire clip to hold a strip of Velcro in place - attaching the Velcro with a screw won't let you slide it around for best fit. In a pinch you can even staple the Velcro to a backboard.
Pre-made three foot patch cables can be had for about $3 each. After spending a few hours making up your own patch cables, your fingers cramp the rest of the evening and you'll be mumbling " should have just bought the darn things in the first place".
Print this out if you want and show him.