Rechargeable Alkalines

A short while back we had some discussions about rechargeable alkalines. Since it's been at least 10 years that I last tried them, I thought I would give the "Juice" product sold on Ebay a try in my Nikon Coolpix Battery Hog

950. The problem with the camera is that just by sitting a week or so, fully charged NEW NiMH cells apparently drop in voltage enough to cause the camera's LOBATT warning to appear, shutting the camera off. Testing reveals the batteries are still nearly fully charged, but it seems that only HOT batteries fresh from the charger can be depended upon to work.

I solved the problem for the even more low-voltage sensitive CoolPix 2100 with rechargeable LIon's. NiMH cells would register low battery in just a few days of sitting idle. The LIon cells give me the best of both worlds. The camera will still run from common AA's if I am stuck in the field without a recharger, but performs *very* nicely now, weeks after a LIon pack is installed.

The alkaline rechargeables didn't fare so well in the Nikon 950. They don't quite have the power of NiMH cells, 2500MAh compared to 2000, IIRC, and that means they give fewer pictures per cell by what you might expect. My first test of longevity wasn't good, either, but it may very well be that the camera drains more power when idle than I've estimated. I'm not sure I'll be able to measure that drain easily, either, so the first tests have a big 'X' factor as a result.

I'm going to recharge them again and try again first with the "Juice" alkalines, then with some Ultra brand hi-capacity NiMH cells. I'm also going to set one of each aside after a full charge, with no load, to test their voltage from week to week. That's a problem because voltage doesn't really tell you much about the state of a battery. At the end of three months (which is where I find drop off in NiMH to begin in earnest) I'll put them in my test rig to see how long they last.

I've set up my RatShack meter to monitor the voltage as the batteries discharge while they power a small incandescent lamp. Not the best test of capacity, but the RatShack PC monitoring software creates interesting discharge curves. The alkalines start at a much higher voltage than the NiMH, but they fall off rapidly more rapidly than I expected at the very beginning of the curve. I'm going to try to post screenprints somewhere since I told the vendor I'd give him feedback.

One place where they absolutely shine is my new Oral-B toothbrush which runs from a single AA cell. The higher initial voltage of the alkaline gives far superior performance in terms of vibration and rotational speed of the brush. I've recharged one of them ten times now, just to see how rechargeable they really are, and there's been a little loss of capacity after each cycle, but not much.

Now that I have the fast charger (with a nice green "charged" indicator) I will probably get more if they can hold their charge substantially longer than NiMH cells. I'm also hoping the Juice cells won't leak as often as regular alkalines. I'm running into more and more leakage issues with Everleaky and Leak-O-Vac cells. I also notice they don't print a guarantee to repair or replace any device damaged, at least on their AA cells, like they used to. I used some GE/Sanyo alkalines in my MP3 player and they leaked so badly they blew off the battery door!!! After I extract them, I'm mailing it to them to see if THEY repair or replace items damaged by their product.

-- Bobby G.

Reply to
Robert Green
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I think that it was a function of equipment being designed for the higher voltage alkaline cells. I know that there is no "memory" effect with NiMH cells but there is some sort of problem that can cause them to not recharge fully. I have several sets that have some problem that causes them to short cycle in the GPS and other sets that can sit for a couple weeks and run the full time. I have considered doing some sort of battery tester that I can run on cells to match their capacity. Just don't have the free time. It would include an appropriate load with a timer and voltage sensor so that I can do a resistive load that is roughly the right current for the GPS and measure how long till the cell hits 1/2 of the GPS turn off voltage.

Are using CRV3 type batteries?

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If not, what do you use?

The terminals seem to be recessed inside the battery (makes sense considering what shorting can do to them.

Reply to
B Fuhrmann

I hooked my RatShack multimeter to an old Dell laptop and with the resolution set to 240 seconds I get a pretty good readout. I use a flashlight bulb in a small socket and read the voltage across the bulb terminals. I find I don't need it as much as I used to because the newest chargers have circuitry that detects bad cells pretty reliably (and doesn't have to put them through a discharge cycle to do it). If the charger slot LED flashes rapidly after insertion, it's not a battery to depend on nor will it charge. Often, they will still power a little portable fan for quite some time; just not voltage sensitive electronics. So far, the best performers out of many different brands has been Kodak. Go figure. They've held almost a 1/2 charge for over six months!

I bought something from Ebay for $13 total ($6 for the charger and battery,

7$ for shipping!) that was a private sale - someone had bought it but then lost the camera. The standard battery merchants that haunt Ebay were about double that price. It came in one of those armored plastic clam shells so I am pretty sure it was new because I had to band-saw it out of there.

The battery is labeled "Dual Power" and is made in Taiwan. The charger came with a car cord and a transformer. I got over 100 average distance flash pictures using it. The nicest part is that after two months of sitting on the shelf, the battery meter still says full. I get at least as much power out of them as I do from freshly charged NiMH cells in addition to excellent shelf life. I wish more things were designed to take both CRV3's and normal AA cells. I'm very happy with them in the Coolpix 2100. It was a real bear to keep stoked with NiMH cells.

FWIW, I tried recharging a non-rechargeable LIon and it wouldn't bite. It raised the cells to 3v pretty quickly, and they powered an LED for a little bit, but it was clear that it was designed to charge only the rechargeable kind. The camera never powered up with them. I did use a blast shield during the test just in case.

I've seen news cameraman begin to smoke as one of their belt pack batteries shorted. There's an insertion bump that acts as a key to prevent putting the CRV3 in the wrong way. There are two very stiff springs in the camera body to contact either type of battery. Here's the blurb from the ad:

SEALED IN BLISTER PACK FULL 3 YEAR USA FACTORY WARRANTY MADE BY DIGITAL CONCEPTS

  • * * FITS FOLLOW MODELS * * * CR-V3 DL-CRV3B K-CRV3 GES-LC-CRV3 CRV3 EL-CRV3BP LB-01E CRV3-A/1B Quick Charges in 90 Minutes Microprocessor To Control Charging LED Charging Indicator Contents One 90 Minutes Quick Charger One Rechargeable Lithium-Ion Battery CR-V3 One AC Adaptor ( For use in your Home ) One DC Adaptor ( For use in your Car )

-- Bobby G.

Reply to
Robert Green

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