WRT54G Firmware Upgrade

Check on the "Security" page of the router configuration. Is "Filter Internet NAT Redirection" enabled? If it is, it will kill access to local shares.

Larry

Larry Finger hath wroth:

NAT Redirection"

Also, if the shares are via wireless, the "AP isolation" setting on the advanced wireless page will do the same thing. Make sure it's OFF. See:

near the bottom of the list.

Jeff and Larry,

Many thanks for your prompt replies. Checked what you suggested and still no access. It gets worse, since 'tinkering' with the router, now I have no acces to the internet at all

I have a real problem with this, i.e, all was well until the firmware 'upgrade'. The file exchange desktop to laptop and vis versa collapsed since the upgrade and the time it has taken so resolve this issue is simply not acceptable. This is a simple, basis home 'network': - desktop to laptop, no more. This is 21 Centuary and thing should not be that difficult. I am not a complete computer idiot, I have professional IT background admittedly somewhat 'aged' by today standards but I know (I think) what I am doing.

No doubt this can be resolved. My point is, it should not be so complex, All worked perfectly well until the upgrade. I tried all Linksys software on their website to help me to resolve this issue with no luck. I am not blaming Linksys nor pointing my finger at anyone else, it may well be the problem is my end but ... all was well until the upgrade.

Money is not an issue here (I have already lost a lot in time (I run a small business from home and this has been an absolute disaster). I have no problem buying another wireless broadband router, I simply want this reselves soonest.

Apologies for this lengthy reply, kindest regards Mark

"Mark Zak" hath wroth:

No problem. Punch and hold the reset button for about 30 seconds on the WRT54G and start over. My guess(tm) is that you've made some assumption in the setup that isn't correct. Rather than try to find it, it's easier to just start over.

For connectivity issues, go unto the "status" page and see if your ISP is properly delivering an IP address. I can't tell from here whether it's DHCP, PPoE, static, or whatever. Doesn't matter as you should see real routable IP addresses on the status page. Once internet connectivity is re-established, methinks the "share" problems will fix themselves with a reset. The default configuration is fairly close to correct (except for wireless security).

More commonly, the problem is in the configuration of the various PC's. The easiest way to troubleshoot that is to take the wireless part of the puzzle out of the picture. Plug each PC into the router using an ethernet cable. Turn off the wireless in the PC if possible. Now try it. If that works, wireless should also work. If not, there's probably a "personal firewall", "Windoze Firewall", or similar security product getting in the way.

That happens. The basic assumption is that all the settings are reset to defaults after the upgrade. I've found that to be a good assumption with most firmware versions, but there's no guarantee. Punch the reset button to be sure.

I'll spare you my philosophical lecture, but simple products simply don't sell. Features sell and they bring complexity to the table. With the deluge of advanced acronyms and manifold protocols, simple and wireless are oxymorons. I'm sympathetic, but don't expect much relief.

I think that might be the problem. No offense intended, but assumption by those that know what they're doing has been a constant source of trouble. I'm guilty of it myself. I "deduce" problems and shortcut procedures. That usually serves me well, but not every time. I just wasted 30 minutes activating a DirecTV receiver over the phone. The first 10 minutes were spent trying to find the model number. The next 10 were discovering I had forgotten to wear my eyeglasses when plugging in the coax cable. Of course, it was in the wrong jack. Extra credit for installing the smart card upside down. Like I mumble often "Assumption, the mother of all screwups".

Well, if it were easy, it would be no fun. Incidentally, if you really want fun, try one of the alternative firmware installations for the WRT54G. I recommend DD-WRT v23 SP3 at:

It's not any easier, but with options to mis-configure, the opportunities for entertainment value are endless. I probably spend more time configuring my router than using it.

Have you ever considered that this might be an unrelated incident? It's a fair bet that your correct and that the update did something to break your network. However, that's only one guess among many. I deal with customers that often try to correlate events and symptoms. I'd give them a 33% batting average, which is quite good.

Ok, let's try beating this assumption to death. What hardware version WRT54G are you working with? It's on the serial number tag on the bottom of the router. It makes a HUGE difference for firmware selection, bugs, and setup.

Oh swell. Now we're in a rush. We'll I would normally suggest you give me a phone call and we can work through it, but I'm late for a free lunch and service calls, so not today please.

Well, a service call from any reputable tech will cost about $50. That's the same price as a new wireless router. My favorite of the week is Buffalo WHR-HP-G54.

Good luck.

Jeff,

Once again many thanks for your most informative and helpful reply. You are absolutely right in what you said. Admittedly I was loosing patience hence some of my rather haphazard comments.

I followed your instructions and got things to work only to be followed shortly thereafter by my Telstra supplied Motorola cable modem 'crashing'. This was replaced today but now I have no wireless access from my laptop even though wireless file sharing is OK. I will fix it though, just could not help mentioning it.

Thank you again for your time and help, truly appreciated Kindest regards Mark

P.S. I enjoy your website

Y'er welcome. I got a bit carried away with the "lecture" format, but I think I got the point across.

Crash? Well, it's not like a computah where the hard disk gets scrambled and everything comes to a stop. Just reset the cable modem and it should recover.

Well, two steps forward. One step backwards. Progress, I guess.

Masochist. It's a mess and desperately in need of reorganization. I'm trying to learn a CMS (content management system) so I can make it look garish and cluttered like the rest of the Internet.

Jeff,

I am embarrased to say I have not been able to resolve wireless internet access with the new modem. To recoup the details - WRTG54G hardware version

2.2, firmware DD-WRT 23 SP3, Motorola SB5101 modem, desktop wired to the wirelss router and laptop.

No issues with the desktop nor file sharing between desktop and laptop in wired and wireless mode. However, cannot access internet from laptop in wireless mode. Laptop wired directly to Motorola connects to internet but will not if wired to the wireless router. It seems to me it is the router that needs tweaking but I am at a loss where?

Can you assist please? Kind regards Mark

Jeff,

I have got it resolved. It was a simple matter really of not having the Windows XP TCP/IP stack configured for automatic IP address . Thank you once again, I have learned a lot from your posts

Kindest regards Mark (Melbourne)

"Jeff Liebermann"

| Well, a service call from any reputable tech will cost about $50. | That's the same price as a new wireless router. My favorite of the | week is Buffalo WHR-HP-G54.

What's your opinion of the WLI-TX4-G54HP?

Any model/flavor you prefer better?

Application is duel. One being a poorman's P2P and the other being a mobile for RV and traveling where the adaptor in the lap top(s) just don't make the trip.

Family was at the beach last month and there was a free AP as part of the rent if we could make the distance. The problem was half the lap tops could only access the pay to play APs.

NAT Redirection"

I compred my router set up page with the above and everything except Authentication type is the same. I remmeber making the modem a bridge and setting PPPoE on the router. Is that the reason that

*Authentication Type* on this page for my router set up is disbaled?

And "Wireless MAC filter" under *Wireless* tab is disabled. Is that how it should be?

For the wirless security mode, I am using WAP2 Personal, choosing the

*WAP Algorithm* to be TKIP+AES. Anything I should change?

BTW, Under *Setup*-> Basic Setup, I chose G mode only for *Wireless Network Mode*. Wireless channel is "6 - 2.437 GHz". What is the best selection choice for this?

Thanks.

I think the the firmware upgrade is dependent on the hard ware version you have. Might want to call tech support. They are good. If you get an incompetent one, just hang up and call again to get a different person.

I upgraded my firmware from version 2 to 4.21.1 (with the help of tech support) and no problem. My main computer is connected wired though.

until I changed the network key (for WAP at the time, now changed to WAP2Personal after reading somewhere that it's better but the key requirement is the same, I think) to be without the letters above F.

Which page do you got to see the Config of Windows XP TCP/IP stack?

"NotMe" hath wroth:

I like it. However, the cost is about the same as a WHR-HP-G54. With DD-WRT or OpenWRT firmware, the WHR-HP-G54 can do most everything that the WLI-TX4-G54HP can do. They're physically identical, so there's no size advantage. If I need a wireless client, I just put the WHR-HP-G54 (with DD-WRT) in the client mode. It's undesireable for me to stock more than one model, so I don't have many WLI-TX4-G54HP wireless bridges in service.

Yes, but you won't like the price.

What does "don't make the trip" mean? Is that slang for not enough antenna gain, insufficient range, or clumsy excuse for a package? If so, I'll need to know what you're trying to accomplish and what you have to work with. There's no universal solution to all problems and you might be trying to do something that's impossible (or rediculous).

Ok, so you had a range problem. What's that in feet (or meters)? In other words, what were you expecting?

I recently told a beach hotspot operator to install his omni antenna upside down. It was mounted on top of a 2 story building and most of the RF was doing out to sea or into the sky. By mounting it upside down, he was better able to cover the beach below.

If you're going for the DX record in connectivity, you might consider that antennas are far more important than radios. You can juggle internal laptop cards all you want and you might improve your range perhaps 50%. However, an external panel or patch antenna can easily increase the range 200%. Hint: 6dB gain increase = twice the range.

mimi hath wroth:

Wrong. WEP keys are hexidecimal or 0-9 plus a-f. Exactly 13 characters for WEP 64 bit, and exactly 26 characters for WEP 128 bit. There are ASCII key generators built into most OS and client managers that will convert 5 characters of text into WEP64 and 13 characters of text into WEP128. There are some limitations as to the characters allowed, but I'm too lazy to search for them. WEP encryption is easily cracked. Use WPA or WPA2 instead.

WPA and WPA2 have similar key requirements. 8-63 printable characters maximum. (ASCII code must be 32 to 126 decimal). Anything less than

20 characters can probably be cracked by a dictionary attack.

mimi hath wroth:

Internet NAT Redirection"

No. Authentication Type only has an effect for WEP encryption. It's not used for no-encryption and for WPA. The box is misleading and should offer the choices of "shared key", "open auth", or "auto". There are some really stupid security problems with using WEP shared key authentication that allows the WEP key to be extracted from the traffic. Therefore, open authentication, which really means "no authentication" is more secure. I have no clue which of these "auto" implies.

Yes. MAC address filtering only works for wireless connected clients. It has no effect for ethernet connected clients. It's strictly a wireless feature.

Yes. It's WPA2, not WAP. WPA2 with TKIP or AES encryption is about the highest level of security currently available (without a RADIUS server). Nothing more to change. You don't need or want MAC address filtering unless you enjoy reconfiguring your router every time a visitor arrives with a new laptop.

Seperate issues. Choose a channel from 1, 6 or 11 that does not have the whole neighborhood using the same channel. Do a site survey and see which channels are in use.

G-only mode is great if you don't have any 802.11b devices that need to connect. Older devices used to have a substantial slow down if the

802.11b compatibility mode was enabled. That's no longer the case, but might be a problem if the neighbors have an 802.11b system. I would pick 802.11g-only if possible.

I think you mean the TCP/IP layer not the entire stack.

Assuming you have Windoze XP: Control Panel -> Network

Right click on the network device you want to configure and select "properties.

You'll get a list of network services used by this device. Scroll down to the bottom of the list and double click on TCP/IP.

That's your TCP/IP configuration.

"Jeff Liebermann"

| >

| >| Well, a service call from any reputable tech will cost about $50. | >| That's the same price as a new wireless router. My favorite of the | >| week is Buffalo WHR-HP-G54. | >

| >What's your opinion of the WLI-TX4-G54HP? | | I like it. However, the cost is about the same as a WHR-HP-G54. With | DD-WRT or OpenWRT firmware, the WHR-HP-G54 can do most everything that | the WLI-TX4-G54HP can do. They're physically identical, so there's no | size advantage. If I need a wireless client, I just put the | WHR-HP-G54 (with DD-WRT) in the client mode. It's undesireable for me | to stock more than one model, so I don't have many WLI-TX4-G54HP | wireless bridges in service. | | >Any model/flavor you prefer better? | | Yes, but you won't like the price.

I"d be interested in the model and price if just for gigges and grins.

| >Application is duel. One being a poorman's P2P and the other being a mobile | >for RV and traveling where the adaptor in the lap top(s) just don't make the | >trip. | | What does "don't make the trip" mean? Is that slang for not enough | antenna gain, insufficient range, or clumsy excuse for a package? If | so, I'll need to know what you're trying to accomplish and what you | have to work with. There's no universal solution to all problems and | you might be trying to do something that's impossible (or rediculous).

No engineering involved as my main job was watching the grand kids and holding down the hammock.

| >Family was at the beach last month and there was a free AP as part of the | >rent if we could make the distance. The problem was half the lap tops could | >only access the pay to play APs. | | Ok, so you had a range problem. What's that in feet (or meters)? In | other words, what were you expecting?

Didn't estimate much less measure. Open the lap top and made connection or opened the lap top and didn't make connection. as it was we have various falvores of Mac and PC and about the same % of secuss on both sides. | | I recently told a beach hotspot operator to install his omni antenna | upside down. It was mounted on top of a 2 story building and most of | the RF was doing out to sea or into the sky. By mounting it upside | down, he was better able to cover the beach below. | | If you're going for the DX record in connectivity, you might consider | that antennas are far more important than radios. You can juggle | internal laptop cards all you want and you might improve your range | perhaps 50%. However, an external panel or patch antenna can easily | increase the range 200%. Hint: 6dB gain increase = twice the range.

No practical way to attatch an external antenna. Seemed the simpliest way was a wireless roughter with 4 RJ45 connectors. My machine, I take it with me poke it up on a pole and drop the cat 5 cable down. one for each computer. If I need more I can use a wire roughter in can get most anywhere.

As for the RV when I park in the out of the way part of wherever I am I can poke the antenna with the T/R up and do the best I can withwhat I get. If need be I can get a half a**ed directional antenna but I doubt I'll need one as most times we're in and out within 12/24 hours.

OT I just scored fully functional and legal copy of PathLoss4. Makes doing things that were far too complicated to do before a snap. Now I have WAAAAY too much information.

I decided to use dice word lists to make my key for WPA encryption and now, it's okay.

Internet NAT Redirection"

Thanks for the explanation.

:)

How do I do a site survey? When a tech support asked and say to keep it at 6, was he seeing what channels my neighbors were using? Or was he just making the standard suggestion?

I want to do a site survey. Any guide?

I don't have any b devices.