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Wireless Internet setup

I am thinking about connecting to the Internet using wireless ISP. I am currently about 2.5km away from the nearest ISP's access point. As far as I can tell, this is many times longer than any wireless card can support - normal ranges go around 100-300 meters. Am I true?

I was reading about access points, bridges, repeaters and routers.

As far as I can tell, access points and routers make additional network to which you can connect and they do not allow you to access some other available nets (like one of the mentioned ISP). Although they sometimes have additional external antenna connectors, they are only used to allow others to connect to the network they create, not to allow them to connect to ther networks.

Repeaters just prolong the range of the wireless device, but they are not good because they effectively duplicate the pollution of the signals originally sent. Wired-wireless bridges connect to the wired network on the one side and emit wireless to the other side and vice-versa. Thus, bridges are the only possible (and good) solution (beside antennas) to increase the range. Better said, they are the only solution to actively increase the signal strenght.

Are the above statements right? What are the options and what should be done?

In fact, does anyone know a good web site where all these are outlined well? I am interested in wireless beside my will to connect to the Internet. I want to learn more about the types of the devices used and how some of them could possibly help me in situations like the above.

Thanks for any help!

Reply to
izittm
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More than the distance relative altitude is also very important. If there is a obstruction inbetween there is no way you can connect. Get a GPS and do a site survey between both points.

If there is no obstruction then use a Senao outdoor Bridge at your end and a Senao outdoor AP with a 23 Dbm Semi parabolic antenna at both ends.

Have a unique SSID and change the IP of the AP and Bridge to some class C. Dable around with the frequency for best throughput.

shanks

Reply to
shanks

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com hath wroth:

Basically true. It's really a function of the antennas. The typical client radio has an antenna gain of about 0dBi (or no gain at all). A big outdoor dish has a gain of about 24dBi. 24dBi is equal to 250 times the power. A good rule of thumb is that your range will double for every 6dB of antenna gain. 12dB is 4 times.

You might want to do the calculations at:

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's a bit complex for a beginner, but it will need to be done eventually if you are going to make this work. You'll need some numbers from your wireless ISP, such as their equipment and antenna specifications.

Something like that. Access control comes in layers and may involve several protocols. For example, it is possible to control access at the access point with the MAC layer, at the router with IP addresses, at the wireless access point with encryption keys, and at the network with a login and password (RADIUS). Your wireless ISP should have a list of recommended equipment which should simplify things.

There is no connection between the type of antenna connector and who is allowed to connect to their networks.

Correct. Only one radio may transmit in a given airspace. Add a repeater and everything gets transmitted twice, which leaves less time for others to move data.

Please realize that ALL wireless is bridging. There may be a router tacked onto the system at both ends to deal with the IP stuff, but the basic wireless functions are bridging. Unfortunately, there are a few confusing types of wireless bridging.

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Basically, they're mostly correct. Your options are dictated by the wireless ISP. To connect to their system, you will probably need compatible or possibly approved hardware. Follow their lead.

Between the protocols, hardware, radio frequency equipment, and antennas, you have more than one web pile could possibly supply. I suggest you simplify things and recognize that you're going to need a client adapter and antenna. Probably both will need to be mounted outdoors to keep coax cable losses to a minimum. The stuff at the WISP end is fixed and not going to change. Work on calculating how big an antenna you'll need for 1.5Km. Worry about line of sight and Fresnel zone clearance. In the process, you'll learn a bit about RF, decibels, gain, patterns, line-o-sight, power, sensitivity, fade margin, and such. When you get that nailed, come back for more.

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Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news:1137752772.511503.117270 @f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

The first thing to do would be to call them and ask them if your in their coverage area. If the prop studies show that you are, they (any good ISP anyway) will come and do a site survey to qualify you. Then you start asking questions about equipment. ISP grade equipment has waaaaaay more than a 2.5 kM range.

For instance, I used to work for Clearwire when they were still using their own OEM equipment (and before I got screwed), in the 2.4Ghz band. Granted it wasn't an 11 mbps connection, more like 1 mbps, but with good line of site the range was greater than 25 miles, at that full speed, there was no speed degredation based on distance.

DanS

Reply to
DanS

Thank you for the reply!

#>>>

There is no connection between the type of antenna connector and who is allowed to connect to their networks. #

Reply to
izittm

You use the AP's management software to choose which network it connects to, some include a site survey where the AP can act as a client.

David.

Reply to
David Taylor

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