Mounting 24 db Parabolic on roof

Ok, I found more documentation, and realized the mounts I thought was for roof mounting, was install for wall mounting.

Where can I find roof mounts for a 24 dbi parabolic dish suitable for a pitched roof?

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com hath wroth:

Any particular reason you don't seem able to disclose the maker and model of your dish? Not all dish antennas use the same mounting configuration.

This should work for your unspecified model dish:

the pipe O.D. size. Some dish clamps will handle 1.50" O.D. Others will only go to 1.25" O.D.

The fab-corp Long mount was what I purchases, thinking it could be used on the roof. However, once it arrived, the documentation stated it was to be mounted on a wall. Hence my posting here asking where to find a roof mount.

Any particular reason why you can't swivel it around and use it as a roof mount? Gotta keep in mind weather-proofing of course. Or there's a bunch of resources for roof mounts:

There are some "non-piercing" roof mounts out there. Good for those that don't want to go cutting up roof shingles.

I believe I asked for the antenna brand and model, not the mount that you are about to exchange for the correct model. See:

one that will work. Call or write Fab-Corp for an exchange.

No, model 277 from fab-corp is for wall use. The directions that came with it specifically states that it's for wall use.

I've done that google search myself before posting, but there were no obvious answers of what was required, back to my original questions

What length (and size) screws are required? Do I need to find a 'stud' or will anywhere on the roof suffice? Where can I validate this information?

I don't see a model 277 on the Fab-Corp web pages. However, I don't care about the wall mount that you have. It won't work, so it's going back for an exchange. There are 4 mounts starting at the top of the page labelled "universal mounts" that will work if the diameter of the pipe is correct. These are 39 and 26 inches long

may be required to clear whatever you're using for a 24dBi dish. Note that these mounts can be used on a flat roof, pitched roof, vertical wall, chimney (with straps), DIN rails, unistrut, and vertical pipe in concrete (with clamps). That's why they're called "universal" mounts. The only real trick is that the base has to be solidly mounted to the roof and the pipe be long enough to prevent the antenna from sitting on the roof. If you have cedar shingles or shake roof, forget this mount and use a pipe.

How on earth am I suppose to devine this information if you repeatedly refuse to supply the maker and model of the antenna? As for the roof, all I know is that it's a "pitched" roof.

This looks kinda cool:

haven't tried it.

General instructions for installing a DBS dish on the roof:

you need to hit the rafters with lag bolts or thru bolts with big washers.

Please call Fab-Corp support at:

beg them for assistance.

The 'WhatIsgood-3.htm' link was exactly what I needed. Thanks.

My link is up and running (at least while I'm sitting on the roof). I'll be installing the weatherproof boxes over the next week. I'll be ordering extra cable to install the next installation during the week.

According to

I'm working within the legal limts for Point to Point installations.

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com hath wroth:

Well, sorta. If you're running thick coax cable (i.e. LMR-400), it will be difficult to snake through the pipe as shown. Other than that, the DBS dish mount instructions should work. Use LOTS of roofing tar.

Post photos. I'm always interested in creative installs.

24dBi for point to point should be 24dBm tx output maximum. The jury is still out as to whether that is measured at the antenna (which includes the coax cable losses), or at the transmitter (which does not include the coax cable losses).

One of the things you should do while waiting is to drag a laptop up to the antenna installation and fire up Kismet to determine what you can hear. The danger is that there is another wireless network in line with your dish or in line beyond the dish. Get the signal strengths and avoid those channel numbers. When you get the other dish up, do it again in the opposite direction. I recently did one installation that had a hotel network directly in line, but almost 3 miles further than my target. I had to reposition the link so that another building blocked this source of interference.

Already got the 'others in the area' sniffing taken care of. There's no one in this direction. As I mentioned in other threads, I'm in a very rural valley, rather, on a hill facing a valley. There is one other wireless user 80 degrees off and 1 mile away, but not visible from my location (more hills and trees). Also not visible from the current point to point destination either. I had to treck up another hill to see the user. I found him while wardriving in the county when I was first searching for infrastructure that could save me effort from building it. For 15 minutes, I did get an additional signal that came from OVER a ridge towards blacksburg, but I haven't been able to find it since.